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Old 05-23-2014, 02:27 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
I seem to recall that there was a problem with some 34' Excellas having insufficient tongue weight. There was a recall where they just welded iron weights to the frame.

One thing to check would be to hit the scales and see if your tongue weight is somewhere in the 10-15% of trailer weight range.
YEP- the front kitchen model has that problem.
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:30 PM   #16
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Yes, the front kitchen model because they moved the axles forward to compensate for the heavy kitchen, and evidently over compensated.
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Old 05-23-2014, 08:15 PM   #17
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Thanks, all!

Very helpful...
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:58 PM   #18
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The dually is an overkill, but that is what was available in great condition and a good price in 2003. I used it for work and to pull my 31 footer. Setup transfers correct amount of weight to the front wheels. My wife can drive it in heavy wind and truck traffic. She did not like getting pushed around, when we used our former 3/4 window van. Damage to any trailer is proportional to how much you abuse it. High speeds on poor roads are a killer. Reduce your speed to match the road conditions.
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:48 PM   #19
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All..

Thanks again for the help...

Did some wheel well measurements, then took the weight distribution up one link. Putting more weight on the front axle did the trick. Smoother ride overall, and much more stable. Steering feels firm and positive...less "floaty".

Completely different towing experience!
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Old 05-26-2014, 02:02 PM   #20
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All..

Thanks again for the help...

Did some wheel well measurements, then took the weight distribution up one link. Putting more weight on the front axle did the trick. Smoother ride overall, and much more stable. Steering feels firm and positive...less "floaty".

Completely different towing experience!
That's great, but since you changed the angle of the bars and the cams, don't forget to make the anti-sway system work correctly, you must readjust the cams to be certain they are centered in the "saddles" of the bars. Without doing this, the anti-sway simply does not work well on the Reese DC.
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Old 05-26-2014, 02:27 PM   #21
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Thanks, Steve..

After turns to left and right, then straight for 100 yds, then stopped w trailer brakes only, the cams were right in the middle of the saddle. This is the Reese setup process, as I understand it. The cams may not have been centered with the old setup, however. This is our first AS, and we have only had it a few weeks...still getting the hang.

Didn't mention it before, but I'm an engineer, so I treated this like a stability experiment. Starting at 50 mph, and in 5 mph increments: sudden wheel inputs left, right and both ways...tried to get a 6 in or more departure. In all cases, sway was damped in less than 1 full cycle. Did it up to 70, which is faster than I tow. (Not big wheel inputs, mind you, just enough to get things moving!)

Interesting that prior to the change, I would get 4-5 cycles, with distinct steering input back through the steering wheel. The extra weight on the steer axle got rid of all that completely.
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Old 05-26-2014, 02:33 PM   #22
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Thanks, Steve..

After turns to left and right, then straight for 100 yds, then stopped w trailer brakes only, the cams were right in the middle of the saddle. This is the Reese setup process, as I understand it. The cams may not have been centered with the old setup, however. This is our first AS, and we have only had it a few weeks...still getting the hang.

Didn't mention it before, but I'm an engineer, so I treated this like a stability experiment. Starting at 50 mph, and in 5 mph increments: sudden wheel inputs left, right and both ways...tried to get a 6 in or more departure. In all cases, sway was damped in less than 1 full cycle. Did it up to 70, which is faster than I tow. (Not big wheel inputs, mind you, just enough to get things moving!)

Interesting that prior to the change, I would get 4-5 cycles, with distinct steering input back through the steering wheel. The extra weight on the steer axle got rid of all that completely.
Believe me when I say they must be readjusted. Visually checking for center is not good enough. They can be off a few thousands of an inch, and the sway control will not work as it should. Been there, done that, several times over, got the T shirt.
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Old 05-26-2014, 02:35 PM   #23
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Ok, will do!
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Old 05-26-2014, 02:36 PM   #24
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Tom,

Please read the first post in this thread about adjusting the Reese Dual Cam hitch (the new one) as the adjustment is NOT as simple as the book makes it sound: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ams-52579.html

Good luck.
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Old 05-26-2014, 06:19 PM   #25
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Read the thread, Steve. Thanks...I think I see what you are talking about. My hitch is the older style with the adjustable saddle on the tension spring, but I think loosening that and doing the adjustment you suggest will do the same thing. Is there a different procedure for that style?
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Old 05-26-2014, 06:31 PM   #26
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Read the thread, Steve. Thanks...I think I see what you are talking about. My hitch is the older style with the adjustable saddle on the tension spring, but I think loosening that and doing the adjustment you suggest will do the same thing. Is there a different procedure for that style?
The older style is much easier, and yes after going in a straight line, stopping with the trailer brakes, just loosen the "U" bolts and the cams will immediately go into place. The older style hitch is much easier to adjust. Sorry, I assumed you had the new style, but never the less, they both need the cams adjusted after you change the bar loading.
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Old 05-26-2014, 08:27 PM   #27
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Steve, this was very helpful! Thanks very much, and I will do this before we leave for Alumapalooza nnext week.

Best regards...

Tom
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:07 AM   #28
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Sounds like you have the damping you need. Glad you got it figure out. I expect that with the cams not in the correct position that it would actually make it more unstable.

Perry



Quote:
Originally Posted by TomS View Post
Thanks, Steve..

After turns to left and right, then straight for 100 yds, then stopped w trailer brakes only, the cams were right in the middle of the saddle. This is the Reese setup process, as I understand it. The cams may not have been centered with the old setup, however. This is our first AS, and we have only had it a few weeks...still getting the hang.

Didn't mention it before, but I'm an engineer, so I treated this like a stability experiment. Starting at 50 mph, and in 5 mph increments: sudden wheel inputs left, right and both ways...tried to get a 6 in or more departure. In all cases, sway was damped in less than 1 full cycle. Did it up to 70, which is faster than I tow. (Not big wheel inputs, mind you, just enough to get things moving!)

Interesting that prior to the change, I would get 4-5 cycles, with distinct steering input back through the steering wheel. The extra weight on the steer axle got rid of all that completely.
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