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Old 05-26-2014, 01:27 PM   #21
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1994 34' Excella
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Thanks, Steve..

After turns to left and right, then straight for 100 yds, then stopped w trailer brakes only, the cams were right in the middle of the saddle. This is the Reese setup process, as I understand it. The cams may not have been centered with the old setup, however. This is our first AS, and we have only had it a few weeks...still getting the hang.

Didn't mention it before, but I'm an engineer, so I treated this like a stability experiment. Starting at 50 mph, and in 5 mph increments: sudden wheel inputs left, right and both ways...tried to get a 6 in or more departure. In all cases, sway was damped in less than 1 full cycle. Did it up to 70, which is faster than I tow. (Not big wheel inputs, mind you, just enough to get things moving!)

Interesting that prior to the change, I would get 4-5 cycles, with distinct steering input back through the steering wheel. The extra weight on the steer axle got rid of all that completely.
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:33 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomS View Post
Thanks, Steve..

After turns to left and right, then straight for 100 yds, then stopped w trailer brakes only, the cams were right in the middle of the saddle. This is the Reese setup process, as I understand it. The cams may not have been centered with the old setup, however. This is our first AS, and we have only had it a few weeks...still getting the hang.

Didn't mention it before, but I'm an engineer, so I treated this like a stability experiment. Starting at 50 mph, and in 5 mph increments: sudden wheel inputs left, right and both ways...tried to get a 6 in or more departure. In all cases, sway was damped in less than 1 full cycle. Did it up to 70, which is faster than I tow. (Not big wheel inputs, mind you, just enough to get things moving!)

Interesting that prior to the change, I would get 4-5 cycles, with distinct steering input back through the steering wheel. The extra weight on the steer axle got rid of all that completely.
Believe me when I say they must be readjusted. Visually checking for center is not good enough. They can be off a few thousands of an inch, and the sway control will not work as it should. Been there, done that, several times over, got the T shirt.
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:35 PM   #23
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Ok, will do!
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:36 PM   #24
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Tom,

Please read the first post in this thread about adjusting the Reese Dual Cam hitch (the new one) as the adjustment is NOT as simple as the book makes it sound: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ams-52579.html

Good luck.
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Old 05-26-2014, 05:19 PM   #25
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Read the thread, Steve. Thanks...I think I see what you are talking about. My hitch is the older style with the adjustable saddle on the tension spring, but I think loosening that and doing the adjustment you suggest will do the same thing. Is there a different procedure for that style?
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Old 05-26-2014, 05:31 PM   #26
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Read the thread, Steve. Thanks...I think I see what you are talking about. My hitch is the older style with the adjustable saddle on the tension spring, but I think loosening that and doing the adjustment you suggest will do the same thing. Is there a different procedure for that style?
The older style is much easier, and yes after going in a straight line, stopping with the trailer brakes, just loosen the "U" bolts and the cams will immediately go into place. The older style hitch is much easier to adjust. Sorry, I assumed you had the new style, but never the less, they both need the cams adjusted after you change the bar loading.
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Old 05-26-2014, 07:27 PM   #27
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Steve, this was very helpful! Thanks very much, and I will do this before we leave for Alumapalooza nnext week.

Best regards...

Tom
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:07 AM   #28
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Sounds like you have the damping you need. Glad you got it figure out. I expect that with the cams not in the correct position that it would actually make it more unstable.

Perry



Quote:
Originally Posted by TomS View Post
Thanks, Steve..

After turns to left and right, then straight for 100 yds, then stopped w trailer brakes only, the cams were right in the middle of the saddle. This is the Reese setup process, as I understand it. The cams may not have been centered with the old setup, however. This is our first AS, and we have only had it a few weeks...still getting the hang.

Didn't mention it before, but I'm an engineer, so I treated this like a stability experiment. Starting at 50 mph, and in 5 mph increments: sudden wheel inputs left, right and both ways...tried to get a 6 in or more departure. In all cases, sway was damped in less than 1 full cycle. Did it up to 70, which is faster than I tow. (Not big wheel inputs, mind you, just enough to get things moving!)

Interesting that prior to the change, I would get 4-5 cycles, with distinct steering input back through the steering wheel. The extra weight on the steer axle got rid of all that completely.
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:39 AM   #29
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I also have the old style dual cam setup - also set as described above - I though that this photo my be of be of some help -2 other photos to fallow
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:41 AM   #30
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Minneapolis , Minnesota
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this is photo # 2
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:46 AM   #31
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this is photo#3 - note that the saddle broke at the marks at the top - reese no longer sells the parts for this hitch - I bought the last 2 at the reese dealer 2 weeks ago - I plan on having 2 new saddles without the scoring -hope this helps
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:57 AM   #32
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I have not read all of the comments above but will make this one.
Reese bars at not manufactured to tolerances that guarantee that the bars are the same length. If you have set up the system correctly and then mark one of the bars for a given side you may see an improvement. I found this after maybe 30 years of using a Reese system. A widow friend who followed we as we would go out weekends said one day that my trailer was all over the road. Then after a couple more trips she said would comment sway not there on one trip and bad bad on another. I checked the setup and found about an 1/8 in. difference in the bars.

This difference is enough to cause the system to become additive to sway rather than subtractive as the bars are actually accelerating the movement at first.

On a nice flat parking lot drive in straight for at least 100 ft. park and check how the bars are setting on the saddles. They should be fully seated on both saddles. Remove the bars and swap them side to side and recheck that how they are seated. If you see any difference that is you problem.
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