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Old 11-21-2014, 09:24 AM   #21
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As many of you have witnessed, I purchased a 2015 Tahoe to tow my future FC 25. BUT, ended up ordering the FC 28 Rear Bed and immediately became anxious as to the towing capability of the Tahoe with the increased tongue weight. Problem solved. Just traded the Tahoe for a 2015 2500HD Duramax diesel, exhaust braking with Class 5 hitch. Call me overdone but ain't gonna sweat the big hills. Now don't y'all make me regret my decision! LOL


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Like we say in Wyoming, "Ain't no such thing as too much truck." Our DMAX is 9 years old and just hitting it's stride.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:44 AM   #22
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I highly doubt you will regret it!

We moved to the Duramax 2500HD when we bought our Classic 30. I initially towed the trailer home with a Sierra 1500 that we had used with a previous trailer.

I think that in a pinch we could have stayed with the 1500, but the towing experience is just so much more enjoyable with the diesel.

About the only downside I have found - and it is a pretty minor one - is encountering a little more difficulty sometimes at fill-up time if not on the interstates. You not only have to find a gas station that you can get in and out of easily, but also one that has diesel - and even if it does advertise having diesel you have to find out which pump you need to get to!

I was more concerned about that when we first got the truck and have adapted to it now! I generally don't let the fuel gage drop down much below a half tank before I start looking though if we are on smaller secondary roads.

Also, I have gotten in the habit of carrying a spare fuel filter and tools o change it with me "Just in case." We did pick up a bad load of fuel once in a small out of the way gas station and it plugged the filter. I should have known better! (Well, I did know better, but didn't have a lot of choice.)

The truck went into what they call "Limp mode" with zero filter life showing on the dash info system and we had to carry on at not much over 5mph max to the next town here luckily there was a GMC dealer!

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Old 11-21-2014, 12:08 PM   #23
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Hi from AZ. . .my F150 Ecoboost has 'tow haul' mode on tranny & effectively acts as Jake brake. And pulls my FC 28 just fine thank you. regards, Craig
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Old 11-21-2014, 12:10 PM   #24
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Like we say in Wyoming, "Ain't no such thing as too much truck." Our DMAX is 9 years old and just hitting it's stride.
Yup, the photo was at the Petro Station Exit 310, April 24, 2010

AirstreamREV_2009_Int_27FB_Snow_04.2010-3 by Fantinesvoice.com, on Flickr
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Old 11-21-2014, 12:46 PM   #25
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1400 LB bar for 2500 Duramax/ FC 28 ??

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Thanks to all of you, final piece of our TV/AS decision made. Talked to Sean at ProPride and getting the WD hitch with 1400 lb. bars. I should be safe pulling my FC 28 with my 2500 HD Duramax. See y'all on the road and thanks for your help.


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I have same 2500 Duramax (2013) and 30 ft Classic /. Started out with 1400 LB bar and have to switch to a much lower bar (600LB I think) due to AS rough ride - beddings, cushion, clothing all shifting around due to excessive vibration. I was advised to reduce the bar wt. since my TV is already beefed up to carry more than 10,000 LB. Forum members also claim that 1400 LB bar is ideal for smaller TV ( 1500 SUVs) but not for 2500/3500 HD on a 8-10 thousand load and that it will cause shell/frame separation with time. Please research more before you take delivery of the 1400 Lb bar as they are pricy to exchange (UPS). Looking forward to seeing you setup at Canopener
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:12 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamblinManGa View Post
Hi from AZ. . .my F150 Ecoboost has 'tow haul' mode on tranny & effectively acts as Jake brake. And pulls my FC 28 just fine thank you. regards, Craig
Let me say that I tow with an F150, and I'll be buying another F150 in 2016 or so. However, tow/haul does not do the same thing as an exhaust brake on a diesel. The exhaust brake on an engine like the RAM's Cummins increases back pressure in the exhaust to augment the already significant compression braking a diesel provides.

The exhaust brake system on a 6.7L Cummins is STILL not a Jake Brake, which is a device that opens the exhaust valves near the top of the compression stroke on demand, to eliminate the recovery of any of the energy that went into compressing the air in the cylinder. That's why Jake Brakes are so loud.

For purposes of descending a grade, tow/haul just holds the transmission in lower range, it doesn't do anything to increase the compression drag of the engine like the other 2 systems do. Now, tow/haul makes a bunch of other changes to the behavior of the transmission in different modes of operation, but that's not what I'm addressing.
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Old 11-21-2014, 08:04 PM   #27
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Msmoto I love the bumper sticker on the truck peaking out of the snow. "Easy Does It" Appropriate for the conditions.
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Old 12-20-2014, 03:41 PM   #28
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Nice

You won't regret it. Run Stanadyne fuel additive, and only Racor/Delco fuel filters or pick a good aftermarket fuel system. As long as she's drinking clean fuel you can just follow the dash maintenance reminders and never have an issue.

As said in this thread empty ride quality is the only minor gripe with a big truck, and even then it's nothing some quality springs and bilsteins can't fix.
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Old 12-20-2014, 04:00 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by F450Harley View Post
I have same 2500 Duramax (2013) and 30 ft Classic /. Started out with 1400 LB bar and have to switch to a much lower bar (600LB I think) due to AS rough ride - beddings, cushion, clothing all shifting around due to excessive vibration. I was advised to reduce the bar wt. since my TV is already beefed up to carry more than 10,000 LB. Forum members also claim that 1400 LB bar is ideal for smaller TV ( 1500 SUVs) but not for 2500/3500 HD on a 8-10 thousand load and that it will cause shell/frame separation with time. Please research more before you take delivery of the 1400 Lb bar as they are pricy to exchange (UPS). Looking forward to seeing you setup at Canopener
This^^^^! I tow a 34' with ~1100lb tongue. When I upgraded to the 2012 Dmax I had to drop from 1200lb hitch bars to I think 800lb bars. The 1200s put ALOT of force and shock loads back into the trailer tongue and rattled my front end badly enough to start leaks around the sealed front windows every time I towed! Keep in mind this is on a much heavier tongue and dispersed over a longer frame than anyone else in this thread, so you'll be PUNISHING your airstream by over doing the rigidity of weight distribution. Overkill on torque is great, overkill on brakes is great, but overkill on load bearing components (which are designed for an OPTIMUM weight not a MAXIMUM weight) is a big mistake with a riveted structure rolling on bumpy roads.

I'm actually STILL working on softening up my trucks rear suspension because with 1100lb tongue, 800lb hitch bars, and an empty trailer interior and truck bed it still seems a bit harsh on the trailer. I solved it temporarily with a 400lb motorcycle and some tools in the bed, but I'm currently debating between Sulastics or running Deaver mini-packs with the overloads removed in the rear of the dmax for a permanent solution.
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:15 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by SovrnScout View Post
This^^^^! I tow a 34' with ~1100lb tongue. When I upgraded to the 2012 Dmax I had to drop from 1200lb hitch bars to I think 800lb bars. The 1200s put ALOT of force and shock loads back into the trailer tongue and rattled my front end badly enough to start leaks around the sealed front windows every time I towed! Keep in mind this is on a much heavier tongue and dispersed over a longer frame than anyone else in this thread, so you'll be PUNISHING your airstream by over doing the rigidity of weight distribution. Overkill on torque is great, overkill on brakes is great, but overkill on load bearing components (which are designed for an OPTIMUM weight not a MAXIMUM weight) is a big mistake with a riveted structure rolling on bumpy roads.
x2...I have towed my 28' with slideout (1050 tongue weight) for almost 9 years with my F-250 and Hensley using 1000# bars. I considered going to the 1400# bars and did a lot of resarch on this. After discussing at length with Hensley they recommended staying with the softer bars for the HD truck.

I just traded in my 2006 F250 for a 2015 GMC 2500 Denali Duramax with 4WD. LOVE IT! This new truck seems to sit higher in the rear than my 4WD F250 and I'm wondering if I might have to go to a Hensley stinger with a bigger drop. Has anyone else had to do this? I think my stinger has a 4 inch drop now. I guess I will have to hitch it up and see how level it is.
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Old 12-27-2014, 11:03 AM   #31
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OK, here is my dilemma I have been looking for a TV. Our HOA does not allow pickup trucks but I have found a neighbor who let me park in their garage. I started looking at RAM and GMC 1500 trucks but I think that they are borderline as far as tow vehicles. I am now considering a GMC or RAM Diesel would you share whether or not you are happy with your purchase and why? Two concern's in particular that i have are that this would become my primary road vehicle (car) and I've heard that the 2500 trucks are not comfortable to drive as daily vehicles and I'm concerned about the larger size of the 2500 body over the 1500 body size. Any insights that you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Also what options should I make sure that I have on the truck for towing?

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Old 12-28-2014, 06:52 AM   #32
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2500 hd

I hate HOAs. Just traded my 2015 Tahoe for 2015 2500HD Duramax since I ordered a larger FC 28. Loved the Tahoe but at higher speeds the 2500 is just as smoothe a ride. At lower speeds it is of course a truck; stiffer, harder to turn/park. My everyday car is Chevy Volt.
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Old 12-28-2014, 06:58 AM   #33
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The Airsafe hitch eliminates the ride problems associated with Hd tow vehicles.


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Old 12-28-2014, 06:58 AM   #34
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We have used an 2500HD diesel as our daily driver now for the last 6 years. The suspension is certainly a little stiffer when lightly loaded than our previous 1500. It was most noticeable when we first made the switch but doesn't bother us at all now.

It can be a bit more of a challenge to park at the mall - but I always head straight for parking spaces at the end of a row far from the mall doors, the extra walk does me no harm!

Judging by our experience, I don't believe you will find these issues to be a major problem as soon as you get used to the vehicle - and you surely will appreciate it when towing! A very relaxing experience!

Brian.
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Old 12-28-2014, 07:30 AM   #35
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My 22 foot long Dodge/Cummins 4 X 4, Crew Cab, Long bed......requires tow parking spaces when the hitch is hanging out the back.

As noted, the exercise from walking about 100 yards from the edge of a parking lot can be beneficial. Also, those who choose to follow very closely will get a big surprise when one is forced to stop quickly.

Ride....yes, fairly stiff, but acceptable. One issue is to remember to use the step getting out or risk breaking an ankle.
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:23 AM   #36
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Thanks for your help! I am looking at the 2015 Denali Duramax the local dealer doesn't have one on the lot and wants to special order one for me. Can you tell me what options I should include and about what I should expect to pay? I am thinking about ordering a crew cab and short bed, what are your thoughts on the short bed? Did you add air suspension? Is there a tow package AND a MAX tow package? What rear axil ratio did you get? I am suppose to meet with the dealer this week. Thanks again for your help and advice!
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:54 AM   #37
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Thanks for your help! I am looking at the 2015 Denali Duramax the local dealer doesn't have one on the lot and wants to special order one for me. Can you tell me what options I should include and about what I should expect to pay? I am thinking about ordering a crew cab and short bed, what are your thoughts on the short bed? Did you add air suspension? Is there a tow package AND a MAX tow package? What rear axil ratio did you get? I am suppose to meet with the dealer this week. Thanks again for your help and advice!
You can go to the GMC site here...Trucks, Vans, SUVs and Crossover Vehicles | 2014 GMC Lineup and do an online build. Highly recommended before you go to your dealer so you have a good idea of what you need. Some dealers may try to up sell you on things you may not want or need. With your build information, you can go to a site like Kelly Blue Book or Edmunds an plug in your truck with options and it will give you a "fair Price" range on what you can expect to pay, which can be several thousand less than the MSRP. The other thing to look at is what dealer incentives are happening.

2WD or 4WD? I would not buy a truck without 4WD, but that is my personal taste. If you go with the Duramax, the Allison transmission and 3.73 rear are matched to it. Between the Denali Package and the Duramax (which is an option with the Denali), all towing needs are met with class 5 (2.5") hitch and class 4 (2") insert, and integrated brake controller, there is really not that much else you would need other than tow mirrors, so make sure you add those as they are also an option.

The Crew Cab truck with the standard bed is about 20' long, and you can get all the specs at the GMC website. Good luck with your purchase!
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Old 12-30-2014, 07:54 AM   #38
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Thanks for your help! I am looking at the 2015 Denali Duramax the local dealer doesn't have one on the lot and wants to special order one for me. Can you tell me what options I should include and about what I should expect to pay? I am thinking about ordering a crew cab and short bed, what are your thoughts on the short bed? Did you add air suspension? Is there a tow package AND a MAX tow package? What rear axil ratio did you get? I am suppose to meet with the dealer this week. Thanks again for your help and advice!
I certainly agree about what has been said. My preference is to negotiate as much in options, leather, sunroof, sound system, clearance lights, but get standard wheels. With a very light trailer (<10,000 lbs. GVW) the lowest numerical axle ratio should be fine. Also, 4X4 and make certain to get a limited slip rear differential. However, in driving in slippery conditions one must remember it is easy to spin both rear wheels this way, and it is important with the huge power of a diesel not to let this get away from you.

As for pricing this out, I would get all the cost info from some of the online sources, then allow the dealer about 2% margin. Most of the dealers tell me I am tough on them....LOL
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Old 12-30-2014, 04:30 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Ed Brownfield View Post
Thanks for your help! I am looking at the 2015 Denali Duramax the local dealer doesn't have one on the lot and wants to special order one for me. Can you tell me what options I should include and about what I should expect to pay? I am thinking about ordering a crew cab and short bed, what are your thoughts on the short bed? Did you add air suspension? Is there a tow package AND a MAX tow package? What rear axil ratio did you get? I am suppose to meet with the dealer this week. Thanks again for your help and advice!


Crew with short bed - you have it nailed! Likely, the 2500 will already be outfitted to tow - class five hitch with adapter included on ours.
We found that we rarely used our sunroof; so ordered one without.... but I would suggest the extendable (manual extend on GM) trailer tow mirrors (and you can even get electric foldable if you have garage issues) ...
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