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Old 02-10-2015, 05:27 AM   #15
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Thanks for all the feedback. Since i use a 2"stinger, I will have to use a 2" adapter. I prefer to not use a locked pin merely due to the inconvenience of removing the stinger regularly. I did visit both Lowe's and Home Depot and neither carried a long enough pin. i finally found - two - at e.Trailer. They should arrive today or tomorrow.

And yes, Otter, we love our 30' way over our experiences with a 28' International. But, that is another post! Thanks, Jack
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:58 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by greenflag View Post
The hitch store has 2.5" hitch pins. I have only seen 2" hitch pins at my local WalMart. www.thehitchstore.com
I started my 2500hd at 6.0. it was lowered to five later after a tech said my brakes showed signs of the gain being too high. So far it seems to work.
Like tractor trailers the rear brakes are applied first and with more force ,this is to keep the trailer from jack knife situation, so you want your trailer brakes to apply hard enough to stop the trailer but not to hard as to stop your tow vehicle and cause trailer tires to lock. so how can a tech determing the gain is set too high to wear out your trailer brake shoes ,did he also check the brakes on your truck ? As they could of also had above average wear, the only way to tell if it's set too high is to road tested it and adjust it to properly stop the trailer. As a retired auto tech some people will wear there brakes a lot faster then others with the same vehicle this is because some people drive under different situations , like more city driving or more hilly roads etc this will cause the brakes to wear a lot faster then someone driving on the highway as the highway driver is not applying the brakes every two minutes as the city driver would, also some drivers will wear there brakes out faster as they use there brakes when not needed as one time I went with a customer on a road test on the highway and no traffic and on a straightaway section ,every time the customer looked at me while talking to me they applied the brakes ! For no reason nothing in front! So there brakes wore out a lot faster then most people's brakes so I hope the tech road tested your truck with the trailer before he came to the conclusion that your brake controler was set to high and causing excessive wear to your trailer brakes as most others here have them set around 7-8 , I'm not sure if the controler on your truck is different due to your truck been a 2500 series , but I would have a second opinion to your set up as you don't want that trailer coming around on a hard braking situation on a curve in the road.

Don
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:13 AM   #17
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Since this is a thread on Silverado's, another question. Our FC is still winterized, but I had an opportunity to hook up for the first time yesterday. Since our Silverado does not have the navigation system, the truck has the backup camera running through the left side of the rear view mirror. I did not see this necssarily as a challenge until when backing up the rear view of the stinger was totally blacked out due to the way the shadows were falling at the time. I never experienced this with our Suburban's installed Navigation. Fortunately I was still able to back the stinger into the Hensley relatively easily.

But, have any of you experienced something similar and what have you come up with regarding a workaround? I figure I'll need to light up the back somehow when faced with this situation. I did not realize this prior to the truck purchase but the stock GM Navigation system can evidently be installed after the fact. However, it looks like a very expensive option and probably not workable for us.
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:35 AM   #18
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I have experienced this as well. I painted the front of the hitch on the trailer white. It helps. I have the navigation system and even with the bigger screen it is tough to see through the shadows.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:01 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack46 View Post
I just saw a posting to F250/350 owners regarding a suggested setting for the Ford integrated brake controller. I don't know if they are necessarily the same, but since I just took delivery of a Chevy 2500 HD Duramax, I thought I'd ask the same question since this is my first experience with a built in controller. So what have been your experiences with the built in controller setting?

The hitch receiver on the Silverado is 2 1/2" square versus 2" on our previous Suburban. To date, I have also been unable to locate a 5/8" hitch pin and clip that is long enough for the Silverado. Any suggestions? Thanks. Jack
When I bought a new 2500 Silverado it came with a 2 1/2" to 2" adapter and a hitch pin. Your dealer should take care of providing that.

I set the Trailer Gain to 5. Brakes function well and do not jerk the tow vehicle. YMMV.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:07 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack46 View Post
......I did not see this necssarily as a challenge until when backing up the rear view of the stinger was totally blacked out due to the way the shadows were falling at the time. ................... But, have any of you experienced something similar and what have you come up with regarding a workaround?...........
I have used light/bright colored tape and chalk to make a mark on top of the coupler and hitch ball, which makes it more visible when it is in a shadow.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:25 AM   #21
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I use a back up camera , and I lay a 25 ft tape on the ground parallel to the longitudinal axis of the trailer and leading right up to the centre of the Hensley.

I then set the camera on the truck cap rear glass so it looks downward with the end of the stinger just in the picture and then I back up ensuring that the stinger stays centered on the bright yellow tape lying on the ground, - it leads my right up to the correct position to hitch up with the truck parallel to the trailer.

As well, I stick a dummy wooden 2"x2" bar into the Hensley hitch box on the trailer, and I stop backing just short of the trailer. I can then use the stinger and the wooden bar to ensure the angles of stinger and hitch box are correct for a good hook up using the tongue jack and jack screws to adjust.

I then pull the wooden bar out, and continue backing until the stinger is just about ready to engage the hitch.

At this point I usually get out, go back and check alignment for a final time.

If any adjustment is needed to get the stinger perfectly aligned, I use the tongue jack, and one of those "side winder screw gadgets" under the jack post to get it all right.

It takes much longer to describe this method than to do it, and it works very well for me.

Previously I did have a few "trying times" when hooking up, especially the first few times !

Other people say they can hitch up the Hensley first time without any aids, but not me! I am not to proud to use whatever tricks I can !

Brian.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:27 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garmat View Post
Any problems with dropping down the 2.5 inch receiver hitch to 2 inch with an insert and using the standard 2 inch shanks and hitch systems.
When using the hitch adapter insert, I was annoyed by the noise (rattle when not towing and bumping while towing). And, I was concerned that someone might steal it or I might forget to install the pin and loose it. Since I had no 2 1/2" shank draw bars, I wanted to leave the adapter in the hitch receiver all of the time. I did not want to weld the adapter in place, so I put a bead of clear adhesive caulk in the receiver as far as the caulk tube nozzle would allow. Then I put a bead around the adapter slid it into the receiver and installed the pin until the caulk cured. The adapter never made another sound.

If at some point I wanted to remove it, I could slide a knife blade around the adapter to cut the caulk loose.
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:20 AM   #23
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When hooking up yesterday, it was at my storage location. The area at the rear of the Silverado was completely dark when backing up. As I mentioned, I don't remember ever experiencing this when backing up our Suburban with the nav system. I would have thought that the Silverado back up lights would throw enough illumination but evidently not. I'm going to try a battery lantern to help generate enough light.
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:42 AM   #24
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This should help , It slips onto your stinger and you can wire it to your back up light circuit.
Hitch Brake Lights - Universal Trailer Light From Anzo

There is another one like it that uses bulbs and is a bit less expensive.
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Old 02-11-2015, 12:04 AM   #25
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Old 02-11-2015, 04:14 PM   #26
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Jack,
I have a 2013 2500 HD w/ a Duramax w/ a factory, built-in brake controller pulling a 2008 Classic Limited w/ a Dexter controller and disc brakes.
My factory controller cannot "talk" to the Dexter controller. I ended up buying a Prodigy aftermarket controller to get the brakes to work. I actually pulled the 30' Classic from NC to IL without trailer brakes when I first bought it. Between the Jake brake and the Allison transmission, even the mountains weren't much of an issue.
MAKE SURE your brakes are communicating by manually applying the trailer brakes only, while moving.
This is a digital/ analog problem so make sure your controllers are both digital or they aren't communicating.
The Duramax is a phenomenal truck, you're going to love it!
Bob
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Old 02-11-2015, 04:47 PM   #27
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Thanks Bob. I'll adhere to your advice and approach the first use of the integrated brake controller carefully. Happy to know of your experience in pulling the hills with the Duramax. We plan to spend a good deal of time in Colorado (family) and our past experience with a struggling 2500 Suburban led to the Silverado purchase. Jack
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:00 PM   #28
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If your Duramax will not recognize the disc brakes on the trailer, simply buy one or more (I installed 2) brake magnets, install them in the trailer tongue, and wire them to the blue brake wire. The truck will then think you have drum brakes and the controller will work just fine. I hav been pulling my disc brake 2005 for 15,000 miles with the added magnets and the brakes work great. I bolted my magnets to the storage box behind the propane tanks.
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