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Old 03-23-2005, 12:40 PM   #15
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How about a hidden kill switch inside the trailer that disables the jack and all the running lights. Your best chance is for the police to pull them over if someone takes your trailer. I still like the land mine idea best.
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Old 03-23-2005, 01:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flsafari
What I did was make up a four-legged stand with a 2 5/16 ball welded on the end (legs come up like a pyramid, with the ball on top, and then had a square base that the legs are welded on). You have to offset the angle of the legs somewhat so the base will clear the foot for the power jack. I run the jack up, insert the stand, lower the jack till the weight is on the hitch, lock the hitch, raise the jack and remove the fuse. Voila, hitch locked and jack disabled. One nice thing about this is all the tongue weight is now on the hitch and not on the jack.....and it is locked.
I thought about that one for a while, but with varying heights of where the tongue would need to be to be level it would need to be adjustable. Also it seems it would take up a fair amount of space to store…
Have any photos of yours????
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Old 03-23-2005, 02:32 PM   #17
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Perfection Moulders Inc, 213 Connell St. Goodlettsville, TN 37072 sells a wheel chocking device through camping world. It prevents the trailer from moving and a pad lock can prevent the locking device from being removed. I take the hitch out of the receiver and place it in the coupler and lock it with a pad lock. I have enlarged the locking pin hole in the hitch pin so that my padlock will fit. When I pull I remove the padlock from the coupler and put the hitch in the reciever and use the padlock to secure it. I don't use the padlock on the wheel locks but it would add another level of security along with that big red number on the top of the trailer that can be seen by air.
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Old 03-23-2005, 04:22 PM   #18
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I will post a picture of the stand late next week, unfortunately I'm at work/away from home till then.
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Old 03-23-2005, 05:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flsafari
I will post a picture of the stand late next week, unfortunately I'm at work/away from home till then.
Nice Thanks!!!
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Old 03-23-2005, 07:01 PM   #20
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I like the Blaylock design and it may be easy to fab a basic one: just buy a 2 5/16" ball and destroy/disable the threads by welding something onto them...like a jack stand All these solutions are only as strong as your padlock though. I was going to my storage unit once when I noticed that every lock had been cut and was lying on the ground. Fearing what I would find at my unit...my Master lock had not been cut! Everybody had bought the cheapest lock they could find and I bought the biggest that would fit.

I just found this on one of the Google advertisments above:

"Trailer coupler locks, (hitch locks, tongue locks) are all very easy to defeat. Thieves attach the "locked" trailer coupler to their tow vehicle with chain or rope and pull the trailer out of sight or they use a special device that just clamps around the locked coupler and hooks directly to their tow vehicle."

That's how I got my first camper home. Because I couldn't get the latch to lock I c-clamped the coupler from my utility trailer to the tongue and towed it home. It only weighed 1,000lbs and I was only going 2 miles.

Thoughts?

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Old 03-23-2005, 08:35 PM   #21
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I found a shot of the hitch support/lock. It hasn't been a problem as far as keeping the trailer level, occasionaly you have to slip some wood blocks under it if the ground is really rough but even then it's a lot more stable than resting on a jack, and the hitch is locked. While it won't stop a pro, it will make the casual crook look elsewhere. I usually have the jack up with the foot removed and the fuse for the jack removed.
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Old 03-23-2005, 10:21 PM   #22
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hi folks this will seem like a silly or inexperienced question....

does everyone take off their weight distributing/anti sway gear when storing? how do the hitch locks work if a hensley or equil i zer are used?

i'm leaning toward 1-2 wheel locks and something on the front when my new rig arrives....i can't park it at home and don't think they'll let me live in it at the storage place!

cheers
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Old 07-28-2005, 08:04 AM   #23
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I also had trouble with getting the right hitch lock so I called Airstream Customer Service and they did the research and Randy got back with me in 1 hour with the perfect fit, a Husky Universal Coupler Lock (#39594) from PPL Motor Homes in Houston, TX. www.pplmotorhomes.com
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Old 07-28-2005, 10:35 AM   #24
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2airishuman

First there is the security cable thru the Hensley hitch and the trailer A frame.


Second the Pit Bull wheel lock around the lead road side wheel. It’s on upside down because the longer grab hook fit better thru the outside of the wheel than on the inside, besides it allows the “lock circle” to be out of the direct rain flow. The bright yellow should call attention to it’s existence.



The details of how determined the thieves were made us decide that we’d hopefully make taking our trailer slightly more difficult than taking the local police crime scene wagon or the K9 unit with officer “K9” inside. Hopefully these steps will do it.

Good luck with your new Airstream and many “uneventful” years of enjoyable travels.
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Old 07-29-2005, 10:43 PM   #25
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Scotiabambi is right, the Husky brand does fit nice. It was hard to find one that would fit. The other brands like Master, Gorilla did not fit. I noticed that the steel around the ball is much thicker on an AS. I tried three locks befor I found the Huskey. I would still like to build or buy proper wheel lock.
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Old 07-29-2005, 10:44 PM   #26
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I really need spell check!
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Old 07-30-2005, 07:11 AM   #27
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Canuks, we all could use spell check. IMHO the aluminum cam wheel locks are the only way to go. They are light, lockable, easy to use and store and best of all they work. If you want I can do some research and tell you who is now making them. I bought mine from Camping World, but to the best of my knowledge they are no longer carrying them.
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Old 07-30-2005, 09:55 AM   #28
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Expanding chocks

I would not depend on the expanding between-the-wheels chocks for security. Last year, I had mine set on both sides when a severe hailstorm threatened. I was offered a shelter a couple of blocks away and I did a very quick hookup. I remembered everything except removing the expanding chocks. With the high torque of the diesel, I thought I was just trying to get out of the ruts where I was parked. I rolled the chocks right out from between the wheels.

The expanding chocks are still my favorite for when I am parked, especially when on levelling blocks. I will not depend on them for security, though.
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