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Old 04-29-2014, 04:22 PM   #15
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Interesting new product out that may work to ease this process:

Straptek - Towing

....discussion of it going on over on rv net right now:

RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing: Towing with the new Straptek?
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:59 PM   #16
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youtube

Youtube has a couple of excellent short videoshttps:[U]//[U]EAZ Lift Weight Distribution hookup - YouTubeon how to raise the bars into position. They also suggest your position in relation to the pry bar is critical to reduce the chance of injury. Yes, Yes, Yes, on the gloves. Be safe out there.
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Old 04-29-2014, 05:39 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by md11flyer View Post
Youtube has a couple of excellent short videoshttps:[U]//[U]EAZ Lift Weight Distribution hookup - YouTubeon how to raise the bars into position. They also suggest your position in relation to the pry bar is critical to reduce the chance of injury. Yes, Yes, Yes, on the gloves. Be safe out there.
This is the way that many have stated on this thread how to safely hook up.
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Old 04-29-2014, 05:50 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by dprvashon View Post
I just bought my trailer and they sold me an Equalizer WD hitch. To get the bars onto the trailer, he had me, both, use the trailer tongue connected to the TV to raise both vehicles then use the curved 'Snap Up Hook' lever to finish placing the bars on the trailer. The following is from the owner's manual found here:

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/EQOwnersManual.pdf



"With the tow vehicle still coupled to the trailer, use the tongue jack to lift both vehicles until you can swing the spring arms into place over the l- brackets. If you reach the top of the jack before the spring arms will swing into position, you can use the Snap-up lever to lift the spring arms up and onto the l-brackets. Use the l-pins to secure the spring arms on the l-brackets."



Hope this helps....

I have the cheater in the storage compartment, but I have never used it. I use the tongue jack to lift the whole rig and the bars go in easily. I have started leaving the weight bars in the L-brackets and sliding them in and out of the hitch head. It sure is easy.Click image for larger version

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Old 04-29-2014, 06:15 PM   #19
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I am female and mostly solo. I had my lift bar doubled in length, now I stand back and the extra length makes it easier for me to lift. I also raise my jack as noted above. The long bar is a lifesaver for me. It is total about 40" long.
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:19 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
With the TT connected to the TV, the trailer chocked, the TV brake on and the hitch coupler locked, lift the combination with the tongue jack until you can lift and slide them into place. Then lower the combination until the jack is fully retracted. Reverse to remove bars.


That's it, a lever to lift the bars in place came with my Equalizer hitch but I have never used it. I just couple the hitch and lift the front of the trailer high enough to slide the bars in place.
If you don't have a power tongue jack, quite a bit of cranking is required to lift the front of the trailer.
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Old 06-16-2014, 07:36 AM   #21
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Just noticed this thread and all good advice. My input is there are a couple of youtube videos that show exactly how this technique of using the jack to lift the coupler works. I cannot agree more with the suggestions to use gloves (work gloves) and stay out of the way of the lifting bar if it should perchance slip. It will! I know!!
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Old 06-16-2014, 02:05 PM   #22
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I have an Equal-i-zer. I usually leave the bars in the L brackets when parked. I took them out and laid them on the ground Saturday to adjust and tighten the brackets. Sunday, when I went to pick them up to put them on, I dropped on on my finger. That hurt!
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:58 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by mcgintyrch View Post
I would greatly appreciate any secrets you may have to raising trunnion bars of weight distribution hitches into place. I am still a newbie at this and do all my hitching, etc., solo. I still find the tension trunnion bars a bit intimidating. Perhaps, I'm overlooking the obvious. Should I lift the trailer as high as possible? Coupled or uncoupled to the tow vehicle?

Thanks for any sharing from the "Book of Secrets" of all you Airstreamers!

Susanne and the red kids
2009 23' Ocean Breeze
2008 Yukon XL
Drawtite Hitch 800 lb bars
I'm new to the site so maybe this is covered elsewhere - guidance appreciated.

On the Reese site they also suggest raising the Jack to decrease the angle of the bar and the TT frame to make hookup easier, as everyone here does.

One point no one has mentioned: Proper trunnion bar adjustment by measuring the truck wheelwell heights before and after the barss are adjusted. If the differences in the before and after heights are the same front and rear on the TV, you've properly transferred the weight to the front axle in proportion to the weight left on the rear axle. On my Ram 2500 & 27FB the proper hookup results in one inch drop in each of the front and rear wheelwell heights. This was achieved by trial and error, counting links and then measuring wheelwell delta on a nice level surface..
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:43 AM   #24
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You really don't need any bar or pipe.

In fact you can engage the torsion bars, with just one hand.

How?? Easy !!

Lock the coupler to the ball. With the tongue jack, lift the front end of the trailer "high".

Then simply engage the bars.

Then lower the jack.

I did that for many years, and never needed a pipe or extension handle.

Andy
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:09 AM   #25
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What he said.
I have an Equal-i-zer and never "lift" the bars.
I raise the truck 'n' trailer with the tongue jack. I remove the pins and slide the bars back in the L brackets and leave them there.
When I hook up again, I lift the truck 'n' trailer with the tongue jack and slide the bars into the hitch head and put in the pins. It's so easy I hesitate to get a ProPride even though I want one...
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