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Old 07-25-2016, 01:50 PM   #21
From Beautiful Egg Harbor
 
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Thanks for your post. We're awaiting arrival of F150 and Looking forward to a similar trip this fall leaving from beautiful Wisconsin.
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:54 PM   #22
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I run the firestone bags under my ancient 2000 expedition. My expedition only had coil springs and gas shocks from the factory so a helping hand was severely needed. We run at 35psi if it's just the wife, dogs and myself and at 45psi if the children and their extra gear are along for the ride. We also have spring over gas shocks on the rear. I'm a little surprised that ecoboost is only getting 11 mpg while towing. As long as I keep the speed at 70 our 5.4 with 3.73 gears is turning 13 mpg according to the computer. I had to give up my diesel f250 lariat after a back injury deminished my half of the family income to near zip. Pulling our trailer with the 3/4 ton was reason enough for us to look at different suspension set ups on a 1/2 ton vehicle. The bags made the ride very comparable between the two and I'm pretty sure our fuel bills have dropped with the expedition. The 6.0 in my 2006 fx4 was turning out 14 to 15 mpg while towing. With the difference in gas and diesel prices 1 to 2 mpg makes me question if the extra costs of a diesel are worth it.
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Old 07-25-2016, 03:06 PM   #23
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I also installed the air bags. Not so much for leveling but also for a little cushion for the trailer.
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Old 07-25-2016, 03:48 PM   #24
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For what it's worth, the turbo 'EcoBoost' engine is as good as it gets.
It's ancient technology first used by the Germans inWW2
.because they didn't have 'TetraEthyl lead' compound that reduces engine knock under high boost, C/R and so on
So they used direct injection to get around the 'knock problem'.
My Ford Eco'B is snappy when I need it, reasonably fuel efficient in normal use; and I can cruise at the most efficient torque speed which is 2500 RPM.
This allows all the ancillary services to operate at a good speed, and the engine doesn't 'bog' when power is called for.
I very much like it; but of course' I'm a retired Cdn licenced aircraft mechanic; an A.M.E.
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:14 PM   #25
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@MelGoddard
I wasn't knocking the ecoboost, I am just surprised the economy dropped so much towing. I have a restored 1986 mustang svo with the 2.3 turbo Intercooled and direct injected. In its current tune it's pumping 315hp and almost 350ftlbs of torque to the rear wheels. Of course I've never towed anything with the Mustang but know that the mileage suffers when the right foot gets heavy and the turbo really starts spinning. I would have thought with the ecoboost hitting it's best numbers at a lower rpm that the towing mileage would have been a bit better than a naturally aspirated 5.4.
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:41 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 1973Argosy View Post
I would have thought with the ecoboost hitting it's best numbers at a lower rpm that the towing mileage would have been a bit better than a naturally aspirated 5.4.
I dare say it would be, if it was putting out the same hp at the time. Thing is, many vote with the throttle and decide to use the hp available, and that takes fuel.
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:19 AM   #27
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Watkinsville , Georgia
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Interesting post. We have an F-150 equipped like yours on order now for about 8 weeks. Still waiting. I was planning to go to the dealer and try to find a truck similar to ours to check the door sticker for payload rating. The various models and accessories all have different payloads.
Is your truck an XLT, Lariat, or Platinum, ...?
Thanks for providing the photos.
Ron
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:38 AM   #28
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Have you checked your TV axle weights? I would think this process might result in an overload of the TV rear axle. May not be a problem, depending on truck's payload rating and tow package. I use the same measurement technique, but control the loading with the WD hitch. If result is not level, then I move the hitch ball up or down and do it all again until I get proper wheel well heights and a level arrangement. When I did it this way on my 25 the axle loads were acceptable. I haven't done it yet with my 30 and the 2500 TV.

Al
If you are struggling with leveling your TV rear end I would highly recommend the Roadmaster Spring set up. It will solve a host of problems and works like a charm and easy to install. Anyone with a floor jack and stands and basic mechanical skills can do it. Not only do they help with leveling the load they also eliminate axle wrap on those concrete washboard roads. I am on my second season using it and swear by it. As I noted above I went the air bag route first but they don't work very well on the F-150 suspension set up.
BTW I do have the slightly used complete Firestone Airbags I removed, if anyone is interested they can have them for the price of shipping cost from Naperville Il.
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:49 AM   #29
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I do have that, and it worked beautifully on uphill climbs but on downhill I had to handle in manually or my speed increased too much.

What I do is use the trailer brakes to assist the engine break. What I found is that not letting the downhill speed ever exceed 40MPH helps me keep things in control with the engine brake, trailer brake manually and occasionally taping the TV brake. Letting the combined weight of 15M lbs gather momentum at 60MPH takes a lot of braking effort to slow down.
I have been on downhill slopes where I had to keep the speed at 30MPH.
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Old 07-26-2016, 09:19 AM   #30
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Keeping it slow downhill is smart. Don't know how to calculate it, but it seems the energy needed to slow from 60 to 50 downhill greatly exceeds that to slow from 40 to 30.
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Old 07-26-2016, 09:34 AM   #31
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Keeping it slow downhill is smart. Don't know how to calculate it, but it seems the energy needed to slow from 60 to 50 downhill greatly exceeds that to slow from 40 to 30.
Your observation is spot on. The kinetic energy of a vehicle in motion is directly related to the vehicle mass AND directly related to the squared of the vehicle speed. The energy that must be dissipated by brakes to stop a rig going at 60 MPH is 4 times that of a rig going at 30 MPH. I have seen posts in this forum where members claim the stopping distance with a trailer in tow is the same as TV solo ("The trailer brakes stop the trailer"). This maybe true at lower speeds but not necessarily at higher speeds.
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Old 07-26-2016, 11:03 AM   #32
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Al, I don't think I did a good job of explaining myself. I am doing the same technique as you and my reference to leveling was to my truck. Sorry for being confusing.
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Old 07-26-2016, 11:06 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonMcMusic View Post
Interesting post. We have an F-150 equipped like yours on order now for about 8 weeks. Still waiting. I was planning to go to the dealer and try to find a truck similar to ours to check the door sticker for payload rating. The various models and accessories all have different payloads.
Is your truck an XLT, Lariat, or Platinum, ...?
Thanks for providing the photos.
Ron

Ron, mine is a Lariat.
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:01 PM   #34
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Ghaag - Note you live in Jonesboro; I live in Little Rock; where did you get your Firestone airbags installed?
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:58 PM   #35
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ClydeCrash, I have a 2013 f-150. Love it, however, being pre aluminum body, the payload limits are relatively low and that is the most restrictive. The truck will pull, weight wise, anything in the AS line but when you drop the trailer tongue weight, with a hitch, you have very little left for peeps, any stuff in the bed, etc.
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:20 AM   #36
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Your observation is spot on. The kinetic energy of a vehicle in motion is directly related to the vehicle mass AND directly related to the squared of the vehicle speed. The energy that must be dissipated by brakes to stop a rig going at 60 MPH is 4 times that of a rig going at 30 MPH. I have seen posts in this forum where members claim the stopping distance with a trailer in tow is the same as TV solo ("The trailer brakes stop the trailer"). This maybe true at lower speeds but not necessarily at higher speeds.
As a 10 year old boy I used to spend summers at my grandmothers farming town. I remember sitting up high on the hay wagon and watching the horses struggle to hold the wagon back going downhill and my uncle locking up the brakes. I was always worried sick about the horses getting rolled over by the runaway wagon. This mental picture flashes in my head every time I begin a scary downhill ride with our Airstream. It keeps me disciplined.
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Old 07-30-2016, 05:31 PM   #37
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I have a 2013 F-150 EB with a tow package but not the Max tow package. The maximum tow rating is 9200 lbs. The power is fine but sometimes I get blown around a bit (big trucks and side winds). I always drive about 60 mph. I've heard that various suspension enhancements will help. I'm confused about Airbags, Super Springs, Roadmaster Active Suspension, heavier duty tires, etc. Can anyone enlighten me?
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:40 PM   #38
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Changed tires to LT from P series. LT tires have thicker sidewalls. Less sideways flex. Slightly harder riding but help with side sway.
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Old 08-02-2016, 01:49 PM   #39
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Ghaag - Note you live in Jonesboro; I live in Little Rock; where did you get your Firestone airbags installed?
I got mine installed at DNW here in Jonesboro. You can get them with or without an air compressor, I chose with.
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:34 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Wesair View Post
I have a 2013 F-150 EB with a tow package but not the Max tow package. The maximum tow rating is 9200 lbs. The power is fine but sometimes I get blown around a bit (big trucks and side winds). I always drive about 60 mph. I've heard that various suspension enhancements will help. I'm confused about Airbags, Super Springs, Roadmaster Active Suspension, heavier duty tires, etc. Can anyone enlighten me?
You don't need any of that crap if you have a modern weight distribution hitch designed by Hensley, now sold by Hensley and ProPride. Put all concerns about being pushed around to rest, as well as any sway concerns. Your factory tires are fine, air to maximum sidewall pressure for towing and hauling, and will give you and your Airstream a better ride. Don't overload the axles or tires (verify it with a trip to the CAT truck scale with your rig) and this w.d. hitch will help ensure that.
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