Renting Car dolly vs Utility Trailer with ramp from Uhaul

[robwok]

I'm driving a couple hours this weekend to get a 1964 Yellowstone camper - 13 feet long.

Running gear has been buried in dirt for 20 years. Just want to winch it onto something to tow.

What would you recommend? I can rent an auto transport trailer, or a utility trailer with ramp. What would you do?

Looking at renting either from Uhaul.

[PKI]

The car transport trailer will have two u-shaped rails. The flat bed utility trailer will have a flat surface. If the running gear is functional after 20 years of being burried, the car trailer may work. If parts start breaking off as you winch it out of the dirt, the flat bed is a better choice. However, travel trailers are wide. You want a transport trailer with a minimum of obstruction above the bed so you do not dammage when loading. You also need attachment points that allow the load to be secured. So, my answer would be it depends .... betting a low flat bed would be best, but U-haul may have limited choice.

Once talked to a fellow who rented a U-haul box trailer to get a sports car home. It did not fit. He jamed it in and the car would not come out without anchoring it to a tree. So measure twice and load once, with no touchy, but very good tie downs. Good Luck. Pat

[switz]

Suggest calling the seller and getting the actual width of the widest point of the tailer which would probably be the outside edges of the tires from each side of the trailer plus the width of the trailer body. Also find out the distance from the front of the tongue to the back of the tires.

Since the largest U-haul utility trailer is a 6' x 12' unit with a 2,000 pound load capacity, I doubt the trailer would fit inside the side rails and would exceed that weight restriction. That leaves their car hauler which is just wide enough for a car and limited to 5,290 pounds of vehicle.

From my many negative experiences with U-haul vehicle carrying trailers over the years, inspect the tires and that the springs are not broken. Look to see if there is any brake fluid showing on the wheel brake drums where the hydraulic lines attach. Have had a broken spring and no brakes on one side of a trailer that caused a jack knife. Blow outs are common on the GYM tires (just like on Airstreams) so check tires for cracks and inflation. Just sayin...

[robwok]

The brochure says the 13' is 6 feet 6 inches wide. Overall length is 13, with body at 11'. Weight is 1,500 lbs.

[brick1]

That is a small trailer. I think you should be able to load it onto a flat trailer. Strap it down good...

[ALUMINUMINUM]

Seven years ago,I went through similar mental anguish when recovering my '68GT, from 600 miles away...


When local Ryder and Uhaul found out That I wanted to flatbed a trailer, they said for Car, OK, Trailer, NO. Their Rules. I checked with trailer hauling and auto flatbed hauler services, and their contract conditions were expensive and prohibitive concerning a trailer in unknown condition.


I called my auto insurer, then decided that the fastest, legal, safest and cheapest recovery would be to go there, and tow it home. It's already a trailer, why trailer a trailer?? Make the trailer trail-able... I put fresh Michelins on airstream wheels, tossed a can of WB grease and a case of duck-tape in with my road tools, and “recovered” the GT with no trailering issues. It only took an hour to swap wheels and check bearings. Lots less hassle than dealing with a rented flatbed for 1200 miles.


Tractor supply and harbor freight sell ready-to-go 14” ST tires mounted on steel wheels for fifty bucks each. If they were never overheated, the 1964 tapered Timken rollers are probably still in mint condition, and better than anything you buy today. All the autoparts stores sell bearings and seals pretty cheap if you need them. Then you have a trailer that is in better condition to tow than most rental trailers, and the bonus of two spare wheels, tires and packed bearings... Something you certainly would have done when you got it home, already done...




Either way, it's an irresistibly cute ham can!


.

[CMTampa]

I would rent the uhaul car transport. They are very well made and have hydraulic brakes. Safety first. I towed an antique Porshe to Alabama from Florida through heavy weather without a problem.

[TG Twinkie]

Repack the wheel bearings. Install new tires. Buy a set of tow lights. Head for home.
I doubt a trailer that size even had brakes.

[Johnnyooo]

I would tow it to the closest repair shop, and put new wheel bearings, and new wheels if Their questionable and new tires on it, and tow it home...I'll bet it will cost you less than renting a car hauler or a flat bed trailer....And much less stress for the drive home.

[Dingo Girl]

Post #6 he got the trailer home.

[bweybright]

Not necessarily.....post #6 and post #1 are not from the same person, unless they have two accounts and are using both on this thread.

[Dingo Girl]

Did not notice that.
Sorry

[vintageracer]

Easy solution.

Do NOT buy a PROJECT derelict Airstream trailer that you personally do not have the equipment or physical capability's to move on your own OR are willing to spend the DOLLAR'S to pay a professional to properly and safely move that derelict Airstream trailer to your location.

[Foiled Again]

Agree with Vintage racer... and then some. I remember a disgusted vintage buyer who had a "professional" move a vintage trailer. The professional ran strap tiedowns over the top of the trailer. The top and side panels were all crimped and damaged.

BE WARY trusting anyone who doesn't know and love Airstreams! I am not a restorer - but I have helped with the rescue of two "field finds". It reminds me of an Amish barn raising.... will work for KFC and beer. Hard cider in my case. I've gotten arthritic and wouldn't be much help any longer, but you might consider looking for local help on the forum or from your WBCCI chapter. I'd be very generous with anyone who'd get down and dirty digging one out. Rat droppings, etc.

Paula

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