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Old 07-07-2015, 08:31 PM   #15
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2010 28' Flying Cloud
Lower Alabama , USA
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Originally Posted by cwf View Post
There is some motion/slack. Things have to have enough room to fit together even when there is road debris or dirt embedded.
Here is the recent thread on the issue of loose fits

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Old 07-07-2015, 08:43 PM   #16
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A friend of mine and I welded my sleeve solid in my 2500HD. Then I ran a 5/8" drill bit through it to make sure I had a smooth fit. No slop and it works great.

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Old 07-07-2015, 09:53 PM   #17
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Spot weld or three should work. A tiny spot weld is not going to change the metallurgy in any way that matters. I haven't seen a hitch that isn't welded anyway and I'm confident that they don't heat treat after welding. Unless you have a hitch that was CNC milled out of a solid block of steel.
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:01 PM   #18
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2014 27' FB Classic
Vicksburg , Mississippi
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My two upgrades for this year were a new '15 Ram 3500 and an Airsafe Class VI hitch, which came with a 12" bracket to mount my E-quil-izer WD hitch. The Airsafe has a 2" shank and the Ram came with a Class V hitch with a 2.5" receiver and 2' sleeve. The combination AirSafe/E-quil-izer bolted together is 18" long, not counting shank, and about 60 lbs. I found that, when inserted in the sleeve/receiver and pinned, I could grab the back of the hitch combo and move it 3-4" up-down and left-right. Very sloppy tolerances. As we were leaving for a 3000 mile trip I shivved it with some aluminum sheet metal and duct tape (of course!). It helped some, but still sloppy in my opinion. When my engineer son-in-law looked at it, he seemed to think that most of the slack was between the 2" (solid) hitch shank on the AirSafe and the Ram-supplied reducer sleeve. His proposed solution was a 1/4" bead weld front and back affixing the sleeve to the shank. It really is not load-bearing, so might be a bit of over engineering - but I'm always good with that. Besides the additional wear-and-tear caused by the sloppy fit, I also wonder if it negated the WD effect of the E-qual-izer by taking up so much of its forward torque in the slack, rather than transferring it (and the tongue weight) forward to the TV front axle.

Any thoughts? As always, I learn much from the expertise on this forum...

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Old 07-30-2015, 12:20 PM   #19
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Fort Worth , Texas
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A better hitch receiver would be my choice. The TITAN #45299. See etrailer. A full crossmember replacement.

And then diagonal bracing from the receiver tube that clears the spare to well forward on the frame rails.

Or move spare to bed and extend receiver tube to near axle. Several reinforcements as well as cross bars.

I'm going to use above receiver and cut up the cheap CURT Class V I have now to serve as forward portion.

Controlling flex differences on frame rail ends is goal.

A schematic from the 1960s will show how we once did it with custom receivers. Use those as template. I've posted link here before from 1968 Plymouth full size.

Andrew_T knows this stuff backwards and forwards.

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