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Old 12-10-2012, 07:18 AM   #1
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Quickbite Couplers

Has anyone put a quickbite coupler on their trailer and how is it working out ?
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:27 AM   #2
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Looks like another new, very practical and innovative idea. I like it. The traditionalist will be all over it with reasons why it will not work.
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:40 AM   #3
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I tend to agree with you Mike. I have already taken a lot af flac for installing an EZ connector wiring plug and the Andersen hitch. What should be any different about the Quickbite coupler ?
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:40 AM   #4
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Look at mexray's post #9 in this thread that I had started and asked the same question.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ice-93014.html
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:37 AM   #5
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I've been using a QB coupler for 4 years now...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...day-46178.html

I'm very pleased overall with the QB...just a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

1. the 'tabs' on the front of the JAWS extend forward enough to interfere with some hitches (not WD type hitches) that have a 'downward bend' to them - the distance between the ball & the 'bend' may not have enough clearance for the 'tabs' on the jaws...not a big issue, only comes into play if you have a temp hitch bar with big 'drop' that you use for backing, etc... see my post# 12 here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ice-93014.html

2. you can't hook up to a ball if your TV backs up at an angle from the side, like 90 degrees, etc...you need to back into the QB from the front, with maybe a 10-15 degree limit...HOWEVER, if you backed into a spot and unhooked, you will be able to re-hook from any place you unhooked from...

The QB is extremely strong, and with the SS jaws, I don't use any grease on ball - just a slight spray of WD40 type stuff once in a while...

It would be virtually impossible for a trailer to become unhooked from a QB by virtue of it's design of completely enclosing the ball...

For added security, I insert a 'sawed off' ball into the jaws and lock the SS pin into place when parked - the 'sawed off' ball fills the 'hole' underneath so a thief can't insert anything there to tow the AS away!

Hitching & unhitching is easy once you get past the learning curve...the trailer coupler height needs to be rather close to the to ball height - I keep a 3ft wood dowel handy-back up the TV close to the trailer-measure the ball top height with the dowel & thumb-move to the trailer with the dowel to adjust coupler height to match...

Unhitching is easy, but best if you lift the trailer coupler just enough to take to 'weight' off the hitch ball, as you need to raise the QB locking band before unhooking... there is a 'tab' on the front of the QB locking band, and after removing the locking pin, I place it under the tab, holding with a hand on each end to 'pry/lift' the locking band - if it resists, you haven't taken enough of the load (or too much) off the hitch ball...

I'd do it again if I had too - the QB is a quality product if installed properly, providing a secure connection between the TV & trailer, and should last the life of the trailer...
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:16 PM   #6
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Ray, thank you for the input. If my coupler ever dies I would definetly take a look at this one.
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:27 AM   #7
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QuickBite Hitch Measurements

Would you have the opportunity to measure the QB from the middle of the ball (top of coupler) to the back edge and the width at the back edge? I am looking at removing my Marvel and replacing it with a QB. The Marvel 88010 I have on my 28' 2002 Classic is 10-3/8" inside. Did you have to relocate the lower jack support plate?

The reason I am having to replace my Marvel is that the Andersen WD hitch ate my shark fine because the rearward force is so great that it lifts the paw and shank up. The Anderdsen works great with an Atwood 81911, but the rear measurement is 10-7/8." It would put me too close to the propane tanks and I would have to purchase a new jack support plate.

Thanks
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:21 PM   #8
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Hi Larry, I learned that the quickbite is made to go over the old coupler's plate that is welded to the fram. I used a sawsall to cut the front of the old coupler in front of the fram. Some fileing was needed to aline the jack and bolt holes. Then my brother-in-law, a certiefied welder, welded the new quickbite on over the old plate. When you add the quickbite coupler the chains on the Andersen hitch will be one or two links short.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:55 PM   #9
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FloridaLarry,

MSMCV51 is right, the QB slides over the old coupler vee after sawing off the ball coupler front section. And the jack post should line up straight thru in original position.

Or you can do it the hard way like I did and I think Ray did too, we completely removed the old coupler off the a-frame and welded the new QB on clean. Unfortunately, this put the jack post further aft than it would have been if we had known then what we know now . . .

So my jack post is about an inch closer to the gas bottles cover than it should be. Doesn't cause much problem with the gas bottles cover. And as MSMCV51 stated, you would need to adjust wd chains or hangers because the ball might be a little farther back if you installed your QB the hard way. I wouldn't do it that way next time.
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