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Old 07-15-2017, 08:13 PM   #41
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2016 25' Flying Cloud
Selbyville , Delaware
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2016 Chevy High Country 2500 Duramax pulling a 2016 FC front bedroom, equal-I-zer hitch. Can open the tailgate even with the truck turned a bit.
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Old 07-15-2017, 10:51 PM   #42
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We have a 2013 F150 and 2013 23D. We couldn't until I loosened the three set screws on the jack head and rotate it 90degrees. Took me 5 minutes and now we can open our tailgate fully.
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Old 07-16-2017, 05:37 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenbern View Post
in a word.... NO

maybe with a propride or other longer shank hitch -- you may be able to have clearance....

i use an equalizer-- and I can not open the tailgate
x2...
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Old 07-16-2017, 05:51 AM   #44
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One More

I have had 2 Pickups and 3 trailers and was unable to open end gate with any combination, but I can open the end gate fare enough to get to the stuff at the back of the bed. I put a rage between the end gate and the hitch. Works good.
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:35 AM   #45
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Many good solutions or observations offered here, the problem is many are specific to a particular situation, Rotating the motor on a jack can sometimes solve the problem but I couldn't do it with the Atwood jack on my trailer. I agree you want to keep the ball as close to the truck as possible to minimize leverage on the truck but some times extending the hitch slightly is an easy and acceptable solution. My equalizer hitch came with a 12 inch shank and as someone pointed out the next step up with equalizer was 18 inches and I didn't want to extend my hitch that far. I found a Reese shank on Amazon that was 14" and worked and only minimally extended my hitch.--Frank
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:48 AM   #46
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Ford F-150, Ezy-lift: Nope!
Heavy stuff I remove before hooking up.
Lighter stuff, out the open upper window.
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Old 07-16-2017, 07:05 AM   #47
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The hitch experts at Can-Am Rv tell us even a very short extension of the hitch stinger results in an increased sway input to the vehicle's steering axle in actual handling tests. It is standard practice for them to drill a new hitch pin hole so the ball can be placed as close to the rear bumper as possible.
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Old 07-16-2017, 08:00 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaLevel View Post
Yes, there are 3 holes in the frame where it gets mounted, but on my jack at least, there are extra holes provided so that you can turn it 90 degrees sideways. It's designed that way so that you can turn it if required to clear the tailgate.
Ahhh, I see. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
The hitch experts at Can-Am Rv tell us even a very short extension of the hitch stinger results in an increased sway input to the vehicle's steering axle in actual handling tests. It is standard practice for them to drill a new hitch pin hole so the ball can be placed as close to the rear bumper as possible.
Are they talking about buying another shank that's longer or using an extension to the existing receiver? I don't see how drilling another hole is any different than buying a longer shank.
I looked at the standard Equal-i-zer shank and the hole is only about four inches from the front. I can't see drilling another hole even closer to the front. I think a slightly longer shank is the answer, like 14".

Not scientific, but it seems most folks who's tailgates opened had 250's or 350's, while those of us with half ton's had more problems. Maybe the tailgates are shorter on larger trucks? Or the bumpers/receivers on larger trucks are farther back.
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Old 07-16-2017, 08:18 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaLevel View Post
Yes, there are 3 holes in the frame where it gets mounted, but on my jack at least, there are extra holes provided so that you can turn it 90 degrees sideways. It's designed that way so that you can turn it if required to clear the tailgate.
I never noticed that. I'm gonna take a look. Thank you.
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Old 07-16-2017, 08:21 AM   #50
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Equalizer setup and so long as my tt tv are straight just clears. so yes I can
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Old 07-16-2017, 08:24 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
Ahhh, I see. Thanks.

Are they talking about buying another shank that's longer or using an extension to the existing receiver? I don't see how drilling another hole is any different than buying a longer shank.
I looked at the standard Equal-i-zer shank and the hole is only about four inches from the front. I can't see drilling another hole even closer to the front. I think a slightly longer shank is the answer, like 14".
Sorry I was not clear. They drill the existing stinger to move the ball as close to the bumper as possible for best possible handling and sway control. Has nothing to do with trying to fix the tail gate problem.
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:38 AM   #52
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No problem at all opening the tailgate on my 2015 GMC Sierra. Using a Blue Ox hitch.
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Old 07-16-2017, 10:32 AM   #53
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Blue Ox works fine on GMC 2500HD and 31' Classic.
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Old 07-16-2017, 10:35 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Sorry I was not clear. They drill the existing stinger to move the ball as close to the bumper as possible for best possible handling and sway control. Has nothing to do with trying to fix the tail gate problem.
Hi

The heart of the hitch / sway debate is the distance from the ball to the rear axle. Pushing that out by something like 4" is not a good idea for sway. That's about 10% of the typical ball to axle distance. Getting 4" back by drilling another hole sounds like a pretty cute idea. Sure would not help the tailgate issue any though.

In my case, I'd guess that another 2" would (barely) let the tailgate clear the power jack motor housing.

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Old 07-16-2017, 10:41 AM   #55
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For me, it's a matter of a couple centimeters. Rotating the jack would certainly do it.
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Old 07-16-2017, 11:13 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
The hitch experts at Can-Am Rv tell us even a very short extension of the hitch stinger results in an increased sway input to the vehicle's steering axle in actual handling tests. It is standard practice for them to drill a new hitch pin hole so the ball can be placed as close to the rear bumper as possible.
'Andy' drilled a closer hole for me, (ball closer to bumper.)
I noticed the difference for sure.
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:14 PM   #57
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Ford 2015, F 250, Propride, 2015 classic 30
No problem opening and......yes bruised shins from the stinger !
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:15 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
Ford F-150, Ezy-lift: Nope!
Heavy stuff I remove before hooking up.
Lighter stuff, out the open upper window.
Me? I would 'leave it lay where Jesus flang it'
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:26 PM   #59
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Yes. Ram 2500 with Equal-I-Zer 15,000/1500 hitch and Avion 34X. No problems....
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Old 07-16-2017, 08:09 PM   #60
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No...with a 2015 F-150 Blue Ox and a 19' Bambi??? But now I need to check out how much space I need and see about incorporating one of the sides, like rotating the jack. It is a pain to get stiff out of the rear of the bed when the trailer is hooked up.
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