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Old 08-14-2019, 11:02 AM   #1
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Propride Weight Dist. Jack ELec Drill

Good day folks. I'm trying to not buy the wrong drill. I want to try again to raise the weight transfer jacks with an electric drill. I think my wrists might be ready for it. I've asked on other forums for the brand and model but most of the answers were just buy an 18 or 22 volt drill. One person said Dewalt 18v. That's good but only kind of close. If possible if anyone is raising the 1400 lb ProPride jacks with an electric drill, please let me know the Brand, Type and Model number of the drill or motor or whatever it is. Sure would appreciate it. DH.
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Old 08-14-2019, 11:07 AM   #2
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I think any brand 18v drill will work - I use a Loweís brand (not sure who actually manufactures it). Just make sure itís not an impact wrench. I mistakenly used one on the jacks and itís a sure way to bust the roll pin inside the jack head.
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Old 08-14-2019, 12:03 PM   #3
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All adjustments on the PP jacks is easy when you raise the tongue jack high enough. Raise the jack up, hold the wrench you used to seat the cam locks next to the jack and spin it up to the mark you put on the wrench handle ( I use electrical tape) , if drill bobs down your tongue isnít high enough yet.
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Old 08-14-2019, 12:19 PM   #4
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I agree with the other two responders up to this point. I use a 24v Max Lithion Ion Brushless Kobalt drill model KDD 524B-03. It was manufactured May 2017, so the model may have changed with a 2 ah battery. It works great for the ProPride Hitch, Airstream stabilizers, and other drilling needs.
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Old 08-14-2019, 12:23 PM   #5
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Propride Weight Dist. Jack ELec Drill

Iím cheating with a set of powered WD jacks, but I still need to raise the tongue as much as possible to make it easier to set them.

Do not use an impact driver. There is a shear pin in the top of the jacks that will eventually break. Itís a pain in the butt when it shears. Call Sean at ProPride for spares.
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Old 08-14-2019, 01:26 PM   #6
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Alternative to Jacks

I strongly recommend this in lieu of the traditional setup. A few turns with a socket and you are all set. Let the tongue jack do the work.

https://store.propridehitch.com/lipp...echnology-kit/
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Old 08-14-2019, 02:02 PM   #7
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no impact drivers, two-speed drill

me three on the impact drivers - said the guy with spare roll pins in the tool kit now.

One feature you might seek is a two-speed drill-driver. I have a craftsman 20v with low and high speed. I use low to crank up the wd bars and crank down the stabilizer pads (with the friction-release set to 20 or so, not full-drill) and use high speed in the opposite way.
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Old 08-14-2019, 02:20 PM   #8
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On the haha....

... I have used my original cordless speed wench with good results, raise the tongue and crank....👍

Bob
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Old 08-14-2019, 03:21 PM   #9
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Dewalt 20v. Works great. $99. That's what I bought it for.

And I use the drill for more than just the jacks. It's a great all around drill.

By the way DO NO USE THE DRILL for the stabilizers. It will rip your wrist off if not careful. I do those by hand. I did use the drill for awhile, but frankly it's safer to do it with the hand crank IMHO.
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Old 08-14-2019, 03:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim6090 View Post
I strongly recommend this in lieu of the traditional setup. A few turns with a socket and you are all set. Let the tongue jack do the work.

https://store.propridehitch.com/lipp...echnology-kit/
Sure looks tempting! I assume you are using these?

Have you had any issues with trying to get the hitch lined up with the stinger? It seems the traditional towers and bars can provide downward pressure to lift the front of the receiver.
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Old 08-14-2019, 03:47 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Hans627 View Post
Sure looks tempting! I assume you are using these?

Have you had any issues with trying to get the hitch lined up with the stinger? It seems the traditional towers and bars can provide downward pressure to lift the front of the receiver.
I don't use these. It would be interesting to hear people's feedback on them.

I have had one time when I had difficulty due to a slope, but that wasn't at a campsite. It was at the RV dealer when I had some work done. The slope going up into the garage area was steep. I could not get the stinger low enough. I finally got it in, but it took some muscle. I may have had the same issue with a traditional hitch set up.

The way to get rid of that by the way is to use levelers on your vehicle tires. In the case above if I would have put levelers on the front wheels I could have easily gotten the stinger in. Thus I bought some more levelers for that kind of situation.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:39 PM   #12
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I had the Strapteks and found they are very difficult to get proper hitch head alignment. One effort on a bit of a slope took me 90 minutes to get hooked up. Replaced with the jacks and all issues went away. This is my third trailer and ProPride setup and the previous were with the jacks. I went with the Strapteks this time so that I could lower the front storage door all the way. But there is simply no support for the head with them. Head slops around and can't be properly tilted.
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Old 08-15-2019, 05:19 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by ghaynes755 View Post
I had the Strapteks and found they are very difficult to get proper hitch head alignment. One effort on a bit of a slope took me 90 minutes to get hooked up. Replaced with the jacks and all issues went away. This is my third trailer and ProPride setup and the previous were with the jacks. I went with the Strapteks this time so that I could lower the front storage door all the way. But there is simply no support for the head with them. Head slops around and can't be properly tilted.
That's my concern with the straps. But better access to the front storage area would be nice.

Thanks for posting your experience!
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Old 08-15-2019, 07:35 AM   #14
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I have the 1,000 lb bars and a 10 year old DeWalt 18 volt drill driver. It's a great drill, but tends to have trouble toward the end of the tension range I need. I often end up pulling out the speed bar to do the last few cranks. Maybe it's the age of the batteries, but I would suggest getting the 20 volt max model instead.
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