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Old 12-08-2013, 05:35 AM   #1
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Talking Propride installation

I installed my Propride yesterday (about 4 hours). and the only real problem i had was re routing the propane line to accommodate the U bolt for the distribution jack. Once I reattached the propane line I found that the amount of gas to the AS was decreased. Will take the fitting apart today and make sure that I did not get any crap in the line. Other than this, the installation was pretty straight forward. I'll update with a picture.
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:11 AM   #2
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You are whole lot faster than I was. But I am old and slow. Good luck with find the gas line issue.

You are going to love the Propride. It is a wonderful piece of equipment.
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Old 12-08-2013, 02:49 PM   #3
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Old 12-08-2013, 03:01 PM   #4
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Learn that to match the vertical angle and horizontal alignment of the stinger to hitch head before attempting to connect/disconnect and you will really like this hitch.
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Old 12-08-2013, 04:57 PM   #5
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I have found that as long as there is some play in the movement of the hitch head (the leveling jacks are loose), the horizontal and vertical alignments are not as critical as just getting the stinger and hitch head at the same level. The alignment seems to sort itself out through the movement of the hitch head with the looseness of the jacks.
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:58 AM   #6
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I agree with Morgan Guy. Loosy goosy weight distribution bars really helps with hitching up. Take the few seconds to crank them way down so there is no tension on them at all.
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Old 12-11-2013, 05:47 PM   #7
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Getting "no tension" is proving difficult on ours. I thought I had it mastered a couple of times...but last two decouples I must have been impatient... Cold rain down my neck tends to distract a bit.
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:52 PM   #8
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We should probably move all this to the unofficial pp user guide...but while we're on this thread about hitching and rehitching - I explained this to a new pp user after some painfully frustrating experiences I had as a noob. It's overly detailed but I think it can help. This is from a PM I sent (and got a response later that it worked well)..

Try to think of it like this. Say you're coming back from a camping trip and you're going to detach your truck from the trailer. How you do THAT sets you up for the next time you are ready to hitch up and head out.

So when you're UNHITCHING, that's when you want to loosen those weight distribution (WD) jacks JUST to the point where you can kick the bars with your foot and they move freely. You don't want to turn the WD jacks any more or any less than that point. That sets the "tilt" of the hitch to exactly the condition you'll need when you hook up next. With the WD jacks to the point where the WD bars are loose (so you have the proper tilt for that parking situation) you then want to be sure the height is correct so you can pull the stinger out of the box easily. To do that, you lower then raise the trailer frame with your trailer jack stand to find that point where the coupler JUST "lifts up" ever so slightly off the ball. You have to keep your eye on that coupler while moving the jack because its a subtle shift. At that point you can drive your truck forward and the stinger will slide right out - no problem. Just note the ANGLE at which you pulled out of the box (more on that in a sec).

Now say its a week later and you're ready to go out again. Hopefully you're using some of those neat tricks to hitch up you're learning about!! :-) You back up so the end of the stinger is say 2" in front of the square hitch box.

STOP!!!

Get out and look - its possible (even likely) that since the last time you parked, things changed in terms of height (your truck springs are less loaded, maybe the nose of the trailer sank down a little bit). You want to be sure the height of the square box is set such that the stinger is going to slide into the center of that box (centered from all 4 sides).

You also want to come in to the box at the same angle...how do I describe this? Lets say the hitch head is slightly, maybe 10 degrees) to the left side of the trailer. If the stinger enters the box at zero degrees you're going to have a problem. Try to imagine there's an INFINITE straight line going in the front of the box out the back of the box behind your trailer. Now imagine the stinger itself sits on an infinite straight line that goes through the engine of your truck. You want those lines to connect and be straight too. So you've got the right height with the trailer jack stand, the right tilt with the WD jacks and the right angle by positioning the stinger and box along this imaginary infinite straight line going through them both. Make sense?

This doesn't have to be exact BUT (and this is a BIG point), if the height, tilt or angle is off an inch or two, the stinger will bump the edges of that square box and push the entire head to one side. That TOTALLY complicates matters!

So be sure you adjust the height of your trailer jack stand when you're hitching up so the stinger slides right in to the box at exactly the right height. Oh, and always be sure your tires are chocked (both hitching and unhitching) so the trailer doesn't move when the stinger goes in (or out of) the box. That messes it up too and can be dangerous.

Now - with the height of your trailer set and the WD bars left where they were when you unhitched last time, your stinger should slide right in the box without any trouble. If it doesn't, it's almost certainly because the angle of the hitch head has changed slightly since you last unhitched. You'll notice that if you're trying to insert the stinger and even if the height is right, the stinger bumps the square box somewhere or tries to push the whole hitch head to one side. If that happens NO PROBLEM!! :-).

STOP!!!! :-)

Are the stinger and box on that straight line? If not, adjust the truck. If so, just adjust the WD jacks with the stinger partially inserted in the box and when you loosen one side or tighten one side - you'll eventually see the box sort of slide itself on to the stinger. Take the same action (loosen or tighten) on the other side and you can then finish backing up to put the stinger in the box far enough that you can then lock the over-the-center latches (OCLs as they're called in the manual).

Believe me - this sounds WAY more complicated than it is. It just takes practice and it's hard to describe in writing. Anytime it goes wrong - just STOP - get out and look - assess, adjust and try again. You'll get it!!!
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:58 PM   #9
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Thanks Steve!
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:31 PM   #10
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3p

question, planning to upgrade to 30 Classic and considering ProPride 3P, is it worth the $$ ? Question #2 I have a park it 360 dolly I use in my driveway for tight parting spot. I don't think I will be able to use trailer dolly with the 3P hitch, am I correct??
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firedog1 View Post
question, planning to upgrade to 30 Classic and considering ProPride 3P, is it worth the $$ ? Question #2 I have a park it 360 dolly I use in my driveway for tight parting spot. I don't think I will be able to use trailer dolly with the 3P hitch, am I correct??
I use the ProPride on my 27fb Flying Cloud. Love it without question. However, the trailer dolly could be a deal breaker unless you can modify it to use your stinger to move the trailer. I would imagine such a configuration could be welded?
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Old 01-03-2014, 06:05 PM   #12
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Only if the trailer dolly can act as a reciever hitch. (the square opening) that you could attach the stinger. The 3P has a square steel tube that it accepts on the trailer end as well as on the tow vehicle end.
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Old 01-03-2014, 06:27 PM   #13
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call Sean at propride. i think he has a solution for that.
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:54 PM   #14
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Anyone have the torque specs, wanna check my bolts after first years use and too lazy to look them up...

Yea, I know - after three Pro-Prides you would think I would have them memorized by now...
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