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Old 08-14-2015, 09:19 AM   #1
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Propride Dial-in

Curious all you Propride Experts out there what you think of my set up, please see photo attached -

When the WD bars are loaded, the stinger head falls out of parallel with the hitch ending up somewhat knuckled down. I believe it should be more parallel. Not sure how to do that, I see you can add washers. I did not install it. I will go to work on it, just curious your thoughts. Disregard the tongue jack being down, it makes no difference on the geometry in question.

It tows beautiful by the way.

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https://goo.gl/photos/gVbn8UCm617Xr8Vd7
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Old 08-14-2015, 09:23 AM   #2
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Yes, install washers to level out the head. In addition, rather than twisting your chains, move your hooks to links which allow for a proper untwisted length.
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Old 08-14-2015, 09:50 AM   #3
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Thanks Rich. Is that the primary way to level? I also see a slotted bolt hole (looking close it is immediate left of the Propride Sticker) that looks like it could help too.

I plan to thoroughly read the manual first.
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Old 08-14-2015, 09:59 AM   #4
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I would defer that to those with a complete PP system. I have a Hensley which Sean made a PP adjustable stinger for. I wanted the PP stinger for adjustable height and, mostly, tilt to cure just what you ask about. A level plane for the arms to swing about is desired and helps reduce the potential for the "bump".
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Old 08-14-2015, 10:06 AM   #5
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There are washers in the install kit to keep the stinger angle fixed. Also a steel rivet that goes into the washers. It sets the angle. The slotted bolt holes allow it to do this. Need to have the washers in there to be sure the angle is maintained, even with tons of torque on the bolts. On mine, I'm set dead level. YMMV.


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Old 08-14-2015, 11:38 AM   #6
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I had a similar issue with mine and had to add 3 of the included washers to the adjustment pin so the stinger is tilted downward upon hitch up. As you mentioned, utilize the ability to tilt with those slotted holes.

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Old 08-14-2015, 01:36 PM   #7
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Note that the washers and rivet allow tilt up or down as needed.


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Old 08-14-2015, 03:12 PM   #8
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Looks like tilt and the stinger needing to up at least one or two holes. I think the idea is to have the stinger level with the ground unloaded (at least that's what I got from Sean). So the one in the photo has the tip of the stinger tilting up. So depending on your final configuration you may need the washers and rivet pin that is supplied with the ProPride.

As a ballpark try to set the top of the stinger bar to 14" above the ground. Top of the section that goes into the head. I've found that as right on the money for both my FC25 from last year and my 2015 Classic.

Hopefully you have a manual. If not I can send you a PDF. Also hope you have the washers and pin. They might be installed and from the photo I am guessing they are in the bottom of the receiver face causing the tilt.
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Old 08-14-2015, 04:00 PM   #9
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I too thought the stinger should be level when unloaded, but when I sent Sean the first pic in my post he recommended adding the washers so that the stinger is level when loaded. I mentioned that this of course would cause the stinger to point downward slightly when unloaded and hitching up, and he indicated that with the jacks all the way down the hitch box will angle slightly upward. I haven't had any troubling hitching or unhitching since making the change, and thus far have continued to unhitch once the spring bars move freely and hitch up with them in the same position.
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Old 08-14-2015, 05:02 PM   #10
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That's my thought as well, level when loaded
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Old 08-14-2015, 10:08 PM   #11
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My setup probably is dependent on the TV. 2015 GMC 2500 Duramax with the off road suspension. While it drops a bit with the load it stays very level. As always the combination of TV setup does a YMMV...
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Old 08-14-2015, 10:56 PM   #12
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I think Can Am sets these up with a little downward tilt toward the rear, less chance of the Hensley bump. Also if the stinger does not go all the way into the truck receiver, they cut some off with a metal bandsaw and drill a new hole for the hitch pin. The longer stinger requires a little more lift from the w.d. bars to distribute the same load.
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Old 08-14-2015, 11:03 PM   #13
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I wish I could get rid of the slop between the stinger and reciever. It's not bad but it would be nice to have none at all.
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Old 08-14-2015, 11:26 PM   #14
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Ted,
The "stinger", when following Sean's instructions will be tail low from level. As you hitch up you will find the WD bars will be "parallel to the ground" or close to it when you crank in the adjusters.

You must install the proper washers and pin to achieve that angle.
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