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DC Bruce · 08-17-2015, 01:45 PM

Looks like you have used max lift on the WD bars. I have a feeling this setup will be very difficult to hitch/unhitching. I think you should use washers to tilt the stinger down 10 degrees or so when not connected. When connected, everything should be level. For my combination, about 5 3/4" of lift on the WD bars works well. Truck and trailer are level. My truck is a '15 GMC Sierra 1500 with max tow package and the trailer is an FC27 front bed.

DC Bruce · 08-17-2015, 01:48 PM

PS: Sawing off a piece of the stinger sounds like a bad idea to me. With the WD bars tightened, there's a lot of stress on that part. That's how some of the tongue weight is "levered" off the rear axle.

Ted S. · 08-19-2015, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ted S.

https://goo.gl/photos/gVbn8UCm617Xr8Vd7

So anyway, here's the update.

I quoted my origional photo link for easy reference...in this photo I already have 4 washers in there and I am still not parrellel to the frame with the hitch.

Any of you go with more than 4 washers?

cwf · 08-19-2015, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ted S.

So anyway, here's the update.

I quoted my origional photo link for easy reference...in this photo I already have 4 washers in there and I am still not parrellel to the frame with the hitch.

Any of you go with more than 4 washers?

Ted,
Before you go anutha futha, I have to ask.... Is this a new Excursion ? It looks to me like the receiver is not "level to the ground"/parallel to the TV(tow vehicle). I once had a Ford that the screws on the receiver were loose. That allowed the whole receiver to move, rotationaly. Please, put a 2x2 board into the receiver and see if it is "parallel" to the ground. It it is rotated "up", it would cause that condition you have in your picture.

In fact, a member of this board had to replace his TV receiver hitch because it was so "sloppy"!!!! He had used the TV that tow something heavy and it "stretched"'the metal tubing!!!!

Ted S. · 08-19-2015, 09:46 PM

Thanks for the warning cwf. I will look at it closely tomorrow, we are headed up to NH for a small trip.

This is a 2005 Excursion, the last year made. The stinger does have slop in the reciever, same as my other set ups, not sure how you would get rid of that. The reciever is just barely bigger than the hitch bar.

KYAirstream · 08-19-2015, 09:56 PM

Was there suppose to be another photo? I only see the original.

Ted S. · 08-19-2015, 09:58 PM

Just the origional...nothing has changed. I will be going over the hitch reciever tommorow and will update if it is lose or has other issues.

2012FB · 08-19-2015, 11:25 PM

When installing on my ML350 I tried every hole combination and shank position Up/Down to establish a level trailer, level stinger extension and level ML when the bars were fully engaged. I wound up with the stinger shank hanging down and cutting it off to provide ground clearance. I also made an additional rivet and used two to prevent any possible movement of the stinger when installed. I think I might have had one washer at the top to level it. Not sure why but I can not get a my photo to upload. I even tried one that I posted previously. Must just be too late in the night. From the picture you would have seen that everything is level when loaded.

cwf · 08-20-2015, 06:58 AM

To get around the site issues, upload to the free Tinypic.com sit then copy the links they provide and paste here! Like so...

2012FB · 08-20-2015, 07:35 AM

Thank you this appears to work. Not sure why I have to go through this now.

The camera angle is not the best.

MacPDX · 08-20-2015, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2012FB

Thank you this appears to work. Not sure why I have to go through this now.

The camera angle is not the best.

Shouldn't your chains be between the bars?

2012FB · 08-20-2015, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MacPDX

Shouldn't your chains be between the bars?

Yes, but I did not have them extended yet. I would also normally cross them.

Ted S. · 08-20-2015, 06:59 PM

Update:

It appears there is considerable slop in my receiver/ stinger connection. I have always noticed the play and tow quite a bit. I have corrected this before by laying welds on the hitch bar and grinding them down to make a good spacer. Used to do this all the time with construction trailers.

Not sure how I am going to address it this time. I am leery of any welding on the hitch bar at this point as it is such an engineered unit.

Ohiobrits · 09-08-2015, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ted S.

Update:

It appears there is considerable slop in my receiver/ stinger connection. I have always noticed the play and tow quite a bit. I have corrected this before by laying welds on the hitch bar and grinding them down to make a good spacer. Used to do this all the time with construction trailers.

Not sure how I am going to address it this time. I am leery of any welding on the hitch bar at this point as it is such an engineered unit.

Ted, for slop in the receiver / stinger interface, try this. The link should take you to post 177 in this thread.

Ted S. · 12-25-2015, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwf

In fact, a member of this board had to replace his TV receiver hitch because it was so "sloppy"!!!! He had used the TV that tow something heavy and it "stretched"'the metal tubing!!!!

So it appears this is the problem I have. The stinger has begun to deform my receiver. The Excursion is a very heavy vehicle, and the bunkhouse has a lot of tounge weight. The slop is growing, I fabricated a steel shim to take the slop out, and it loosened again. I am going to replace the entire receiver with the best I can fine, however I am concerned the issue will repeat itself.

Ted S. · 12-25-2015, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ohiobrits

Ted, for slop in the receiver / stinger interface, try this. The link should take you to post 177 in this thread.

So I did something very similar to this but it was a steel shim. The problem repeated itself. The force of the weight distribution is a entirely on the shim, which is causing more deformation.

**GCinSC2** · 12-26-2015, 05:09 AM

I made the same shim full length, a double and single face. I used a piece of stainless steel door kick plate. A bit tough to cut and drill but they have survived quite well. My tongue wt, a lot. 30' slider.

I feel it's helped and I'd make it again if I loose them.

Ted S. · 12-26-2015, 06:30 AM

I made a full length shim, but could only get it in an inch or so because the deformation is only at the tip of the receiver. So I cut it down.

**Hans627** · 08-28-2018, 05:55 AM

I know this is an older thread but it applies to my question.

For those with the RAM 2500 TV how many washers do you use on the pin to set the stinger to the correct angle? And what is the correct angle?

Thanks for your input!

ROBERT CROSS · 08-28-2018, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ohiobrits

The picture below is with 4 washers and 6.5" on the jacks. The stinger sitting in the receiver prior to inserting in the head has a downward angle. As you add washers you will need less lift on the jacks to get the same WD.

Attachment 245565

Much better clearance...👍

Quote:

Originally Posted by KYAirstream

I had a similar issue with mine and had to add 3 of the included washers to the adjustment pin so the stinger is tilted downward upon hitch up. As you mentioned, utilize the ability to tilt with those slotted holes.

Before
Attachment 245454

After
Attachment 245455

Too low? 😳

Bob
🇺🇸