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Old 10-03-2017, 03:14 PM   #21
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Thank you again.
Will order straight away.
You guys rock.
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Old 10-03-2017, 03:41 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MWBishop View Post
Ok, I'm convinced.
So I guess I've decided I should get a WDH after all - likely Equalizer.
Initially think the 10000/1000 system for the 2017 F250 AS26U rig.
Also will 2-1/2" Hitch - 10" Rise/6" Drop - 600 to 1,400 lbs TW.
Is this Equalizer what you are using or did you step up to the 12000/1200?

Thanks for all the responses.
I have the 1000/10,000 Equalizer. Believe me the bars are plenty stiff, just picking one up is eye opening.
Follow the manual or the "Shank Finder" in the web site and calculate what shank you need.
I used the standard shank, but I have a Tundra, your F-250 might be much higher.
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Old 10-03-2017, 03:50 PM   #23
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Don't consider what anyone else is using or how high there ball is off the ground.

An Airstream should ride parallel to the ground when loaded and hitched and the measurements of the frame height should be within 1/2 in. This height will vary with load and condition of axles.

If the tongue is riding high you will increase the tongue weight and if low you will decrease it. nether should be excessive and the 1/2 in should keep you in the park.
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Old 10-03-2017, 03:59 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by MWBishop View Post
Newbie here.
I am trying to get our 26U tongue height correct when hitching to F250.
The AS manual states tongue height (ground to top of ball) should be 17 3/4 inches.
But currently when hitched it measures 18 3/4 inches and appears somewhat nose-low.
Therefore to get to 17 3/4 (dropping front another inch) she'd be even more nose-low.
What am I missing?
Should I shoot for equal distance AS ground/frame front/back and forget that 17 3/4?
Thanks.
I got my new 2018 27' in July, and the dealer repeatedly, meticulously measured the front & back ends of the trailer to ensure it was level. He didn't care about any predetermined ball height. My TV is a Yukon with pneumatic leveling, so we had to wait until it was done to measure. I needed the ball so low that they had to order out for a longer, seven-hole drop-bar. But since then, it's always been perfectly level.
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Old 10-03-2017, 04:08 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by lifeisfab View Post
It is normal and advisable for the trailer to be "nose low". First as you start speeding up to cruising speed your trailer will start leveling up (basic physics) the force start moving from downward to rearward..., second you will be more aerodynamic if your trailer is slightly tilted forward , and your car (the rear wheel) will be more grounded resulting in better control.
I disagree as weight on rear wheel of tow veh. will make front of tv. light causing sway and unstable steering. IMO the ball hgt. that AS specs. is proper then set ball of tow veh. at that hgt. I have and still do over 60 yrs. have always set flat bed trailers and camping trailers level then ball hgt. that measurement, further trailer higher in rear also will cause sway and unstable conditions. AS designs trailer ball hgts. to be level and properly tow if loaded and set up properly. In all those yrs. never had sway or problems, only one time that hitch broke because of faulty design. Totaled 1967 30 ft AS that hitch manf. fully admitted liability and pd huge sum w/out any legal action or threats. plus some perks. If question this check yrs. of manf. and look at ball spec. these yrs.
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Old 10-03-2017, 04:41 PM   #26
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Follow up to prev. post, some of trailers haul equipment that cost 4 or 5 times price of most exp. AS and weigh lots more, can't take chances w/any thing, whether expensive or mediocore costs. Plus tow some in gross 15,000 22,000 range w/3/4 chev. silverado gasser. ford will but it's a struggle, only dif in set up chev has 6.0 engine ford has 5.? specs. basically same except for engines, one ford excursion w/diesel before junk one that had lowered cu. but will out pull any of other pu ups. presently owned. But stinks and noisy.
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Old 10-03-2017, 04:49 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by featherbedder View Post
Follow up to prev. post, some of trailers haul equipment that cost 4 or 5 times price of most exp. AS and weigh lots more, can't take chances w/any thing, whether expensive or mediocore costs. Plus tow some in gross 15,000 22,000 range w/3/4 chev. silverado gasser. ford will but it's a struggle, only dif in set up chev has 6.0 engine ford has 5.? specs. basically same except for engines, one ford excursion w/diesel before junk one that had lowered cu. but will out pull any of other pu ups. presently owned. But stinks and noisy.
Those guys never use WD.
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Old 10-03-2017, 04:51 PM   #28
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Thank you again.
Will order straight away.
You guys rock.
Check out the Hensley before you order. It's a pain in the ass to hook up but tows like it's on rails.
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Old 10-03-2017, 05:40 PM   #29
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>>>>"Proper hitch ball height"<<<<

A level on the A-frame & measure....thats the height you want with WD set.
Get a stinger that is about an inch lower than that measurement, WD should get you back to level....a bit lower is better than a bit higher.

Bob
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Old 10-03-2017, 07:01 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifeisfab View Post
It is normal and advisable for the trailer to be "nose low". First as you start speeding up to cruising speed your trailer will start leveling up (basic physics) the force start moving from downward to rearward..., second you will be more aerodynamic if your trailer is slightly tilted forward , and your car (the rear wheel) will be more grounded resulting in better control.
I disagree with this advice for a MULTI-AXLE TRAILER. I think a tongue low multi-axle trailer is dangerous and may lead to a sway event. I have found literature published by axle manufacturers that state that anything but a level trailer creates an undesirable out of balance load and possibly a dangerous situation.

Slightly tongue low might be OK, and some say desirable, on a SINGLE AXLE TRAILER.

add edit:
http://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defau...).pdf?sfvrsn=8

On page 6 it is stated:
"Trailers equipped with Torflex axels must be towed in a level attitude to insure even loading of the axels. Out-of-level towing results in higher loads being imposed on the axel at the low portion of the frame and less load on the axels(s) at the high end. This uneven load distribution may cause excessive stress concentrations on the frame structure. Uneven loading of non-equalized can also affect the ride characteristics by altering the natural frequency of the structure.
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Old 10-03-2017, 07:09 PM   #31
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Wink

I get so lonely when I'm always....rong.

Sweet Streams....

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Old 10-03-2017, 10:19 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by featherbedder View Post
I disagree as weight on rear wheel of tow veh. will make front of tv. light causing sway and unstable steering. IMO the ball hgt. that AS specs. is proper then set ball of tow veh. at that hgt. I have and still do over 60 yrs. have always set flat bed trailers and camping trailers level then ball hgt. that measurement, further trailer higher in rear also will cause sway and unstable conditions. AS designs trailer ball hgts. to be level and properly tow if loaded and set up properly. In all those yrs. never had sway or problems, only one time that hitch broke because of faulty design. Totaled 1967 30 ft AS that hitch manf. fully admitted liability and pd huge sum w/out any legal action or threats. plus some perks. If question this check yrs. of manf. and look at ball spec. these yrs.
I totally agree. I didn't mean to suggest that all the weight should be on the rear, sorry if I didn't express myself correctly. My main point is that one needs to consider that a perfectly level trailer will tilt toward the back at speed. if you start with a trailer "slightly" nose low, at speed the trailer will level out. At least that's what I do and I have yet to experience sway problems. That said it may be different for very long trailers such as a 30ft. I have only experience smaller 1 and 2 axis trailer so far.
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Old 10-04-2017, 07:29 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by lifeisfab View Post
I totally agree. I didn't mean to suggest that all the weight should be on the rear, sorry if I didn't express myself correctly. My main point is that one needs to consider that a perfectly level trailer will tilt toward the back at speed. if you start with a trailer "slightly" nose low, at speed the trailer will level out. At least that's what I do and I have yet to experience sway problems. That said it may be different for very long trailers such as a 30ft. I have only experience smaller 1 and 2 axis trailer so far.
Hi

The degree to which a trailer does or does not "tip" at speed is related to how it is designed aerodynamically. A big rectangular box will do different things than a teardrop. Air flow at front and air flow at the back can be very different. A 1,000 lb trailer is likely to move a bit more than a 10,000 lb trailer if both are the same size. Single axles will tip more than triple axles. Axle location also matters. Given all the variables, it's quite possible to have a trailer noise rise or fall as speed increases.

If the trailer nose *does* rise at speed, that's likely not a good thing. You are pulling weight off the tongue. Ideally you design so that it neither rises or falls. That way handling does not change with speed or with a gust of wind. So, it's not really a "must be that way". It's a design decision. Poorly done, things shove down at speed. Very poorly done they lift up (and you crash).

Bob
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:30 AM   #34
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Tongue height depends on the specific trailer's tires, axle condition and weight. Keeping it simple: tongue height should be whatever it is with the trailer loaded for travel, unhitched, and level. When hitched with WD engaged, it should be the same or only a fraction of an inch lower. At least that's my opinion.
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Old 01-25-2020, 08:22 PM   #35
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When setting the height of the hitch head on the shank, should the top of the ball be the same height as the top of the coupler before hitching up? I'm assuming the W/D spring bars would eliminate the rear wheel drop and bring it back to level? I have a 2020 F250 and tongue weight is 900lbs.
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Old 01-26-2020, 06:52 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by 4RXLA View Post
When setting the height of the hitch head on the shank, should the top of the ball be the same height as the top of the coupler before hitching up? I'm assuming the W/D spring bars would eliminate the rear wheel drop and bring it back to level? I have a 2020 F250 and tongue weight is 900lbs.
Hi

It's a starting point.

The WD does *not* bring things "back to level" so it's likely the "right" setting is a bit higher than the one you suggest.

Bob
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