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Old 07-24-2015, 06:46 AM   #15
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We have Propride and had similar issues when we first got it. We tow 28' FC with Chevy Silverardo 1500.
We called Sean, he was great to work with. He had us flip our hitch and change the height. That made a huge difference. We jack our bars up to 6". I might be wrong but I think we were told to never go beyond 7"

One word of caution, a shear pin broke on our last trip making it impossible to engage the gears to rise or lower distribution bar. Called Sean, he told us this is happening due to using an impact drill. It turned out to be an easy fix but required scrambling to hardware store to find a roll pin .
We now use hand crank, it actually is very easy and I wonder why I ever thought I needed the drill.
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:12 AM   #16
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ProPride newbie here--using a Sierra 1500 to pull an FC 27. Hitch was installed and set up by Colonial Airstream in New Jersey. They use a lot of washers to angle the "stinger" downward a bit. The initial 5 1/2" set up on the WD jacks produced a pretty bouncy ride with 1400 lb. bars. Another 1/4" of extension cured the problem. But the Sierra has, IMHO, an under damped suspension. The F150s I've driven ('14 and '15) do not. Never had ground clearance issues, except when I drove off without cranking the WD bars and then went over a speed hump. 😖 I would check your weights on a scale; maybe you're running heavy.
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:51 AM   #17
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I've found that I seem to have less porpoising with less WD applied. Of course the issue there I believe is making sure enough weight is transferred to the front axle.

When hitching, I also adjust my WD jacks BEFORE raising the tongue jack, which makes cranking them by hand extremely easy.

One alternative to measuring the hitch box when unhitching is to watch the coupler as the tongue jack is lowered. As soon as the coupler starts to lift off the propride I stop lowering the tongue jack since that's evidence the trailer is now fully supported by the tongue jack and not the vehicle.
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:31 AM   #18
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Ditto on 9" seeming to be way to high. On both my 2014 FC25 and the 2015 Classic I have found that if you measure to the top of the stinger while it is mounted to the truck a height of 14" is in the sweet spot range. Stinger I have been told should be level or close to it.

When I got the new Classic, I did the install at Colonial myself with some help with rerouting the gas lines. Followed the instructions. Setup the stinger at 14" and everything worked and aligned perfectly. Thought I might need to be an inch higher on the stinger since the ball height specs from the factory say it is an inch higher but didn't turn out to be the case. Everything tows, measures, looks like it should and about 1/2 inch higher to the bottom of the frame at the tongue vs the frame at the bumper.
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:45 AM   #19
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We just took our first trip with the ProPride. We tow a 30FB with a 1500 truck and found out quickly that too much weight distribution made the truck ride very rough. I backed the jacks down a little and the ride smoothed out considerably. The "porpoiseing" effect was reduced with a little less weight distribution as well. I found out small adjustments (1/4" to 1/2") on the WD jacks can make a big difference in ride quality. The hitch felt much more stable than the name brand friction style hitch I replaced. I couldn't be happier now that I feel it is "dialed in" and working properly.
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Old 07-24-2015, 10:12 AM   #20
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FWIW.....you don't adjust the WD for "ride quality", you adjust to transfer the needed weight to the TV steering axle, if done properly the quality will be there.

"Dialed in" works better with weights,(first choice) or measurements.

Bob
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:39 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
FWIW.....you don't adjust the WD for "ride quality", you adjust to transfer the needed weight to the TV steering axle, if done properly the quality will be there.

"Dialed in" works better with weights,(first choice) or measurements.

Bob

Agreed. I did mine with measurements at the wheel wells, but I found that after getting the measurements correct and getting everything leveled out, small adjustments didn't seem to change the leveling of the truck a measureable amount but sure changed the ride quality.

Weighing may be beneficial as a reference point, but we are packed different for each trip so my weights will vary from trip to trip. I just decided for my purposes (not a full time camper) measuring is adequate.
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Old 07-24-2015, 12:06 PM   #22
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9" sounds way to high to me as well. My jacks are about 6.5" in height. I have an F-250 and a Serenity 27FB. I am using the 1400 lb bars recommended by Sean.
There is a learning curve for using the PP hitch but once you get it down, it is very fast and easy.
Like others have said, the key is getting the receiver to not only be at the same height as the Stinger but to also have the Stinger and receiver in the same plane. The receiver angle can be changed by adjusting the jack height.
Another tip is when unhitching; make sure the WD bars are relaxed completely (this can be checked by lightly kicking the bars, they should wobble freely). Don't touch the jack adjustment again. Then when you go to hitch back up, only adjust the hitch height and the stinger will slide right in with ease. The Jacks will be set so that the receiver is on the same plane with the stinger just like when you unhitched.
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:15 PM   #23
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Question

"Echelon73"

....small adjustments didn't seem to change the leveling of the truck a measureable amount but sure changed the ride quality."

Then.....I'll guess your using 1400lb WD bars?

Bob
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:43 PM   #24
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That is correct. I have the 1400lb bars.
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:52 AM   #25
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The AS tongue weight has been reduced by about 150lbs. .
How did you do that and/or verify it? Does the Cayenne have PDCC?

I should weigh with my LR3 empty/stripped down of all outing gear to see what it's axle weights are because loaded for a trip it's at 8000 lbs which is already over GVWR before hooking up a trailer.

I have much higher rated tires than you do though, for whatever that's worth
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Old 07-25-2015, 06:21 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echelon73 View Post
That is correct. I have the 1400lb bars.

1000 or 1400?

I started with 1400lb bars, changed to 1000lb, I'm able to transfer 840lbs with a much better ride using the 1000. I've found the stiffer the bar the harsher the ride.

Bob
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Old 07-25-2015, 07:21 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
1000 or 1400?

I started with 1400lb bars, changed to 1000lb, I'm able to transfer 840lbs with a much better ride using the 1000. I've found the stiffer the bar the harsher the ride.

Bob
Perhaps Andy from Inland RV's advice applies here; the lighter rated the truck, the heavier the w.d. bar required. I won't try to understand or explain this logic but he has set up many towing combinations over the years in his Airstream repair and supply business.

Bob, you have a 3/4 ton Suburban and carry very heavy loads when Airstreaming with your Hensley hitch. Echelon73 has a 1/2 ton (F150). Sean from ProPride has suggested the need for 1400# w.d. bars with 1/2 ton trucks, including our own Ram 1500. I'm not sure we would get the weight transfer we need with 1000# bars, but the 1400# bars do and the ride is very good.

I'm not sure that harshness of ride is the O.P.'s complaint, sounds more like a bouncing or porpoising that is making them unhappy. And that sounds like a hitch adjustment or load balance problem in the truck and/or trailer. Heavy loads should be concentrated over the axles of the Airstream and forward of the rear axle of the truck.
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Old 07-25-2015, 08:02 AM   #28
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Doug,

It's mostly conjecture, as no weights were proffered.

I totally agree... 73's concern is related to weight placement/hitch adjustment.

As far as our Burb goes...long WB, relatively soft suspension for a '3/4'=1000lb WD bars.

Correction on a previous post....my receiver load with WD set is 840lbs, I'm transferring 660lbs forward & 160 back with the 1k bars.......my bad.

Bob
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