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Old 01-12-2015, 05:34 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Road Ruler View Post
2012FB... the Benz / Airstream looks great! Was it all that much cheaper than the Cayenne?
I got 12% off list on the new 2014 ML350. Local Denver dealer wanted list -$2,000 for a 2013 Cayenne Diesel Demo Unit. It was a 20K difference. I could have gone out of state (CA) and maybe done better on the Cayenne but figured it would still be at least 12-15 more. Coming out of a 2012 HD Sierra Denali the MB (setup properly) is a real pleasure to tow with and my wife loves to drive it when not towing.
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Old 01-14-2015, 11:54 AM   #16
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You should be more than fine with a 16-25' AS & probably more, as Andy T at CanAm reviewed the 2013 Cay-TDI with a 27 or 30' - see the hitch hints article at the link below, then call Andy at CanAm for more info...

Can-Am RV :: Hitch Hints ..... see HH 41-7

If not already a member, join PCA & get on some of the Cayenne owners forums online - Pelican Parts has a good one, & a few others are out there; then look for topics from folks who actually do tow with theirs.

Also ditto for the cousin Taureg online forums, where their V10 & V6 TDIs have been in service for a longer time (essentially the same 3.0L V6-TDI as in your Cay, but without the "Porsche magic tweaks" added to the drivetrain & suspension).

Here's another topic on V6 vs V8 Cayennes, where some TDI owners have weighed in ....
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f463...-s-124804.html

We're currently looking for a 2006-10 Cayenne S to tow our vintage Avion T20 - which is probably only 3000# wet & loaded - & are focused now on the Iceland Silver 2006 Cayenne S Titanium Ed. because we like the color & it may be a Cayenne model/trim which eventually holds then improves in value over time, since I tend to hold onto my vehicles long term.

You can read some CayTDI input at my topic here...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f463...128005-10.html

We can't justify the extra $20-30k for the later diesel for a few mpg better on more expensive than premium fuel, on what is essentially an "extra car" that we also use tow to vintage trailer events & my 73 914-2.0 to PCA concours, etc. So we're fine with the V8 gas pre-owned option for the 3-5000 mi/yr we'll use it.

As with 2012FB's comment on his wife's use of their MBZ, my wife won't drive big trucks/suv's, & they won't fit in our driveway anyway - so they never were an option.

FYI - our set-up is a Hensley Cub WD/Anti-sway hitch (smaller than their Arrow for up to 6000# trailers), with a Tekonsha Prodigy RF trailer mounted wireless brake controller (it's plug-n-play for rented TVs until we get our CayS).

That one is the same as their hardwired P3 under-dash box mentioned above by 2012FB, which you could get (you'll need the wiring pigtail to hook it up), unless you too anticipate having more than one TV to share duties - then go with the wireless - or if you prefer leaving the Cay unmolested & just plugging the wireless hand controller into the 12v outlet in the Cay, with the controller box mounted on your trailer's A-frame (see pix at my link above of ours).

Enjoy your new Pepper - both hitched & "free"!!

And don't forget to entertain your PCA friends by bringing the shiny new AS hooked-up to the Cayenne to some events ... just to show off what they cannot do with their 911s, Boxsters & Caymans!

Cheers!
Tom
///////
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Old 01-31-2015, 08:57 PM   #17
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Stay away from the older Cayenne's. They are notorious for the block failing along with a host of other issues. Unfortunately I can't say much better things about the MB diesel either. I'm now into thousands for the repair of an oil leak and de-carbonation of my engine. These euro diesels are a real pain with this issue. It isn't just MB that is affected since the design is common among all them. They employ flaps in the intakes that close at low RPM for pollution control and open up at high speeds. The flaps are controlled by a servo motor. The issue is that the flaps clog up with carbon due to the turbo and crankcase vapors causing the servo motor to fail. If the servo motor fails it puts the vehicle into limp mode. The clogging also robs the engine of power. This entire system needs to be removed and replaced if it worn out or cleaned every few years depending upon millage and driving. Mine at 148k is still running, but it needs to be rebuilt due to the massive oil leak from the oil cooler which means everything has to come out. This is a 13 hr job at best. If the intake manifolds need replacing they are $1300 each from the dealer. The Intake Port Shutoff motor (aka swirl motor) is a few hundred more and all of the seals for the entire job come in around $300. You may want to thing twice about owning a diesel!
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Old 02-01-2015, 08:28 AM   #18
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Porsche didn't bring their diesel to the US until 2013, so it missed the early 2003-04 problem years.

The OP & others interested in Cayennes may want to also post questions about towing on Renn List - rennlist.com - under their Cayenne Forum.
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Old 02-01-2015, 10:17 AM   #19
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gator.bigfoot,

I'm in the 3.0 TDI 2012 Touareg. It sounds like you're having to invest in some significant engine maintenance.

When you say older, what does that mean? 148K motors and transmissions may start demanding some attention.

My Land Rovers all required new alternators every 85K (seriously, keep a spare in the vehicle, as you will be stranded!) and window regulators seemed a constantly-wearing part. Thermostats. Water pump.

I've heard that a failing power-steering pump on the 3.0 is something you really want to catch under warranty on these next-generation Bluetec / CleanDiesels.

Happy trails!
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:12 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Erik Olson View Post
gator.bigfoot,

I'm in the 3.0 TDI 2012 Touareg. It sounds like you're having to invest in some significant engine maintenance.

When you say older, what does that mean? 148K motors and transmissions may start demanding some attention.

My Land Rovers all required new alternators every 85K (seriously, keep a spare in the vehicle, as you will be stranded!) and window regulators seemed a constantly-wearing part. Thermostats. Water pump.

I've heard that a failing power-steering pump on the 3.0 is something you really want to catch under warranty on these next-generation Bluetec / CleanDiesels.

Happy trails!
Mine is an '08. I don't look at it as old. But everything is relative.
I've already done the power steering pump last year.
If you have any vehicle under warranty take it somewhere other than the stealership to get checked out. They will insist that there are no issues until you have no warranty and then sock it to you. That happened to me with the steering pump and now this oil leak. I've been complaining it has been using more oil since 2011 and now of course it really shows as it leaks everywhere.
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Old 02-03-2015, 05:38 PM   #21
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[QUOTE=gator.bigfoot;1575485]I'm now into thousands for the repair of an oil leak and de-carbonation of my engine. These euro diesels are a real pain with this issue. It isn't just MB that is affected since the design is common among all them. They employ flaps in the intakes that close at low RPM for pollution control and open up at high speeds. The flaps are controlled by a servo motor. The issue is that the flaps clog up with carbon due to the turbo and crankcase vapors causing the servo motor to fail. If the servo motor fails it puts the vehicle into limp mode. The clogging also robs the engine of power. This entire system needs to be removed and replaced if it worn out or cleaned every few years depending upon millage and driving. QUOTE]


The issue is the way they are driven, short trips, never allowed to really warm up, babied. I had a good friend with an older pristine Doge Cummins that he took in for emissions and it failed miserably. He asked what would I suggest. Take it to the bottom of the I70 west climb out of Denver and repeatedly stop when safe and stomp on the peddle to redline through at least 3 gears if not more traffic permitting. He did and it passed with flying colors.

I would venture to guess that diesels that routinely tow heavy will not have much of a problem with carbon build up. I would suggest and do routinely get my ML350 Bluetec to full temperature and drive foot to the floor for a long as I can safely (80ish). I do this with my 968 as well.
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