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Old 07-02-2016, 11:12 AM   #127
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Originally Posted by cazual6 View Post
Tom, I had to shave 1/16 of an inch just to get it to where it is now. The shank can't go in more without cutting the shank.

I also had created anchor points before to prevent the mount from having any play Left to Right. That was before I purchased that hitch mount tightener to remove any play. Anchor points were at the sides of the bumper storage.
Gotcha Caz on the length. Have them drill the holes at the spot you mark, then re-prime & re-paint it to prevent the rust, since they're doing it all for you.

Also, those shank tighteners are really just "rattle stops" & only take up the natural play between the receiver & shank. Although they advertise them to stop sway & other movement, they're really just marginally successful at that. I know, cuz I have similar Curt ones which I use on the Swing Daddy on our Westfalia, & on the cargo pan & bike racks for the trailer - but only for rattle stop duty.

So do go ahead & use those L & R anchor points which you wisely had put on - in addition to your rattle stop - to secure the rack & bikes from swaying/movement.

You can get a pack of 2-4 of the 1" webbing ratcheting cargo straps at Harbor Freight, Home Despot, Lowes, Auto Parts stores, etc. However, do also use some sort rub protection under where the straps cross the edge of your bumper/step, so it won't cut thru the webbing with vibration/movement while traveling. You can use simple things like pieces of old bike inner tubes, cut out pieces of milk jugs, etc.- to place between the straps & the sharp/thin edges before you ratchet the straps down tight.

PS - This is the type of rattle stop I have, which is Roadmaster, but I think my Curt is the same thing (they're on sale at CW now for anyone looking for them) -

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...&utm_campaign=

Cheers!
Tom
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Old 07-02-2016, 11:24 AM   #128
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For others looking for rattle stop/hitch tighteners - you can see Caz's in his pix (I don't know his brand); & this is a pic of the "Quiet Hitch" rattle stopper FYI, which requires a receiver with a lip at the end to work, as in the pic below.

These would be a multiple "belt, suspenders + clips" as part of an overall bike or cargo rack stabilization solution. However, do NOT believe their advertising BS that it is a sway control device!

PS - It only cinches up the shank tighter inside the receiver so it can't move the 1/16" or so of play they have to insert/remove the shank, so it can't rattle around in there - period.

PSS - BTW - I don't use one in conjunction with my WD/SC hitch either (the Hensley Cub in my case), & I don't think most WD/SC mfgrs. would recco using them with their WD/SC units either. I just use them to tighten up bike & cargo racks from rattling.

Cheers!
Tom
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Old 07-10-2016, 03:25 PM   #129
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Team,

Here is the update.

I cut the shank of the bike mount to the max, 3.25". I was gonna for 3.5" but it would not work.

I went to Ventura KOA this weekend, just came back (July 8,9,10).

Black and Gray tank empty. Fresh water, in the front ( 90% full). Hand my new single sway control (right side) a good tight crank.

Knowing all the advises I got from this thread, and did calculations on my own while KEEPING IN MIND all the advices I got.

I started 45mph on the back roads. 50, 52, 55, 58, 60 and maxed at 65mph. No sway. No problems. This was a two lane highway with no one on the road, as to not be a weapon to anyone else. You know who you are

I got on the 101 south, started at 50mph, 55, 65 and cruised at 58mph. Big rig zoomed by me (at least it felt like it) solid as a rock. No sway all the way home.

This is just an update to let you guys know it can be done SAFELY. The two bikes you see are kids. The blue one, very outside is 26lbs and the gray inside is 29lbs. I put the blue one on the very outside as to eliminate moving it back and back to see if problems would arise. I just put it in the back and I was gonna move it in if it had to be done.

The two adults bikes will stay inside the AS. I didn't take on this trip, but if I did, they would stay inside.

I am not post this update to put anyone down or to dismiss all the advise. I am merely updating you because I love that you cared so much
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Old 07-10-2016, 03:54 PM   #130
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For the benefit of whoever cares, this is NOT BEING DONE SAFELY, just a little less unsafe than four bikes dangling out there unsupported top and bottom.
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Old 07-11-2016, 01:37 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom_T View Post
For others looking for rattle stop/hitch tighteners - you can see Caz's in his pix (I don't know his brand); & this is a pic of the "Quiet Hitch" rattle stopper FYI, which requires a receiver with a lip at the end to work, as in the pic below.

These would be a multiple "belt, suspenders + clips" as part of an overall bike or cargo rack stabilization solution. However, do NOT believe their advertising BS that it is a sway control device!

PS - It only cinches up the shank tighter inside the receiver so it can't move the 1/16" or so of play they have to insert/remove the shank, so it can't rattle around in there - period.

PSS - BTW - I don't use one in conjunction with my WD/SC hitch either (the Hensley Cub in my case), & I don't think most WD/SC mfgrs. would recco using them with their WD/SC units either. I just use them to tighten up bike & cargo racks from rattling.

Cheers!
Tom
///////
Here is the hitch tightener

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 07-11-2016, 01:45 AM   #132
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For the benefit of whoever cares, this is NOT BEING DONE SAFELY, just a little less unsafe than four bikes dangling out there unsupported top and bottom.
Really?
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Old 07-11-2016, 12:26 PM   #133
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Hey Caz,

Glad you got it sorted.

I'd still suggest that you get the sway control unit for both sides, so you have a bit more protection for when & where we get high winds in SoCal (e.g: north of Santa Barbara on 101, Lancaster, I-10/40 in the I.E. during Santa Ana Winds, etc.) - just to have a bit more safety margin on killing sway.

You may already know the 126 between I-5 by Tragic Mountain, to Ventura as a better alternative than 101 thru the West SFV-Thousand Jokes-Camarillo - especially for trailers. On that route, the Shell stop on the south side of 126 just on the east end of Santa Paula is a good trailer-friendly" fuel stop & C-store/Subway.

Safe Travels!
Tom
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Old 07-11-2016, 01:48 PM   #134
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It will be on my to do list. Any advice on how tight I should set sway bar? It makes noise when I turn, I was told it is suppose to do that right after I lubed it on my first two trips. Rookie mistake. Right now I have it slight tighter than hand tight. I didn't want to take a chance of having it too loose.
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Old 07-11-2016, 01:58 PM   #135
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There should be a bolt head on the side to tighten the friction. I tighten the handle hand tight and a push more. Directions are on the side if the bar or with paperwork.
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Old 07-11-2016, 02:05 PM   #136
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No lubricant on the sc these act like brakes on the car, use the same type of material, and you wouldn't want lube on your tv brakes.
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Old 07-11-2016, 02:39 PM   #137
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Really?
C6 - respectfully, yes. Travel safe. Pat
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Old 07-11-2016, 02:51 PM   #138
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C6 - respectfully, yes. Travel safe. Pat
Ditto, agree with Pat and Doug.

It is the same old question, which continues to be ignored over and over.

Is the installation of the bike rack in compliance with Airstream specifications?

I believe the answer is still "no."

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Old 07-11-2016, 11:02 PM   #139
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Ditto, agree with Pat and Doug.

It is the same old question, which continues to be ignored over and over.

Is the installation of the bike rack in compliance with Airstream specifications?

I believe the answer is still "no."

Respect, and respected. Thank you.
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Old 07-13-2016, 12:53 PM   #140
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No lubricant on the sc these act like brakes on the car, use the same type of material, and you wouldn't want lube on your tv brakes.
I agree Caz, & you may have to "ungrease"/"un-lube" those friction plates if you got it inside, or replace them. Those SC units on your hitch are friction based, so you undid the resistance.

BTW - another reason why I suggested both sides' SC units, is that it will be symmetrical & each side will compliment the other in motion. I've only seen a single side SC unit used on really small & light trailers.

As for the hitch comments by others - I don't have an AS with their reccos fro stabilizing the racks, but you shouldn't have to buy & use the AS specific rack. However, you may want to use those tie-downs L & R that you originally had installed, with those load tie-down ratchet straps which I mentioned, especially once those 2 kids bikes "grow" to full sized ones!

IMHO - I think that with the proper WD/SC hitch set-up, proper HW, the bike rack not too far out back & stabilized for L-to-R & F-to-R movement at the top, & not exceeding whatever weight limit AS has put on loading anything on the rear bumper & any other weight specs for your TT & TV - I think that can safely carry 2 full sized bikes on there, & perhaps 4. So I'm not sure that I agree with the 3 others still worried about the bikes/rack. Perhaps I would, if they were bigger bikes?

Thanx for your work & reporting back on here, as that will be good guidance for me, when I set-up our similar Swagman rack on our Avion T20's bumper - once we get our own permanent mid-size SUV TV (Cayenne S or possibly 4Runner/Lexus GX/LX/Land Cruiser). For now, it's easier just to put them in the bed of the rented pick-ups, so I'm putting it off until then.

Of course for caution's sake, they do say that Avions were built better & stronger than AS's then & today - plus I'm using a Hensley Cub WD/AS hitch, so take my plans & experience with a grain of salt - vs. your different & newer AS.

Cheers!
Tom
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