Old hitch ball height issue?

[05ModPod]

Sorry for all the questions. My truck is now 10 years newer than my old girl. My setup was perfect before and now I need to change it up.

The new Sierra with my hitch ball in is sitting at 23 1/8 yikes. I need it to be 18 according to my trailer manual. 51/8 lower.

Can I achieve this, as I only have one hole to Lower on the existing adjustable hitch as pictured. I’m thinking not? Can’t get the damn bolts to budge and terrible at math.


Is it me or is the sway ball arm bent in this picture? Do they have a slight rise or has she been bent at some point you think?

Can I get I longer drop with just buying a new hitch shank or am I looking at a new system?

Second ? About sway. Truck comes with anti sway technology and the inter grated trailer braking system. As well the WD says optional as my load is less than WD recommendation. But I’m thinking it would be a nicer set up to still have the WD for leveling out based on various loading scenarios- any advice?

Besides it taking me forever to figure out all the new tech toys on this truck what are you all using with the newer trucks keeping in mind I don’t have a really heavy towing setup.

[vintagemotor]

That setup will not adjust to the new height, a new longer drop hitch shank will solve this issue. You can get it here:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...SABEgISE_D_BwE

The sway ball mount may be a little bent, no big deal.

Be very careful talking about integrated anti sway in your braking, the truck will "pulse" the trailer brakes when it is in an "extreme situation", this will not cure sway. There are a lot of dif. theories about this and the only one that actually works IME is the Tuson Trailer Sway Controller found here:
https://tusonrvbrakes.com/products/t...ntrol-tsc-1000

As for WD or not, including weight distribution in your setup is highly recommended at any trailer weight. WD that is properly setup makes towing soooo comfy.

Good luck and
Happy Airstreaming!

[featherbedder]

The sway bar ball mount plate looks bent. IMO I would pur. new head & shank as this head looks a little flimsy. Insert shank into truck receiver, spray bolts w/pentr. solvent then use breaker bar w/cheater extension on handle, if need can use body wgt. to break nuts loose, [stand on bar will give lots more force than can do w/arms]. I don't no any thing about new tech. as my pu is 19 yrs. old can't help w/set up.

[Mollysdad]

Yes. The sway ball tab is bent, but I don't think it matters. It's not carrying weight, just push and pull forces. If you want to try to straighten it, I'd put it upside down in the receiver, remove the little ball, and put a bottle jack under the tab. If that doesn't work, I'd leave it. (I can't imagine how one would bend that accidentally!)
You can get a new shank with more drop, all brands I know of have a similar 3/4" bolts on 1/1/4" spacing.
The nuts will be on there pretty good, so, I use two 1/2" breaker bars with 1 1/8" sockets. (And maybe persuasion from a 3' piece of pipe. We called those shade tree torque amplifiers)

Because of the hole spacing, you won't be able to hit the 5 1/8" perfectly, but you'll need to go down 4 holes.
You don't have four holes left, so a new shank is what you need.

[n2916s]

If you do give up on it, I think your combination would be ideal for the Anderson hitch. Not too pricey, lightweight and easy hook-up.

[azflycaster]

The friction sway mount ball is slightly bent. If you turn to far backing up the ball will contact the frame of the trailer and it will bend. Mine cracked badly once in Nebraska, but fortunately there are plenty of roadside welding shops in that state.

You will need more drop on your hitch. If your hitch is old and worn, maybe it is time to consider a new setup. There are plenty to choose from and everyone has their favorite. I switched to a Blue Ox last year and have been very happy with it.

[sac1gaa]

Same truck same issue. Here are a couple options from Amzn.

[rvb]

In the big picture, a new hitch assembly is not that expensive. It will probably be heavier duty than what you have, will work better and will have all new parts.

[jimfa440]

Originally Posted by 05ModPod

Sorry for all the questions. My truck is now 10 years newer than my old girl. My setup was perfect before and now I need to change it up.

The new Sierra with my hitch ball in is sitting at 23 1/8 yikes. I need it to be 18 according to my trailer manual. 51/8 lower.

Can I achieve this, as I only have one hole to Lower on the existing adjustable hitch as pictured. I’m thinking not? Can’t get the damn bolts to budge and terrible at math.
Attachment 307720

Is it me or is the sway ball arm bent in this picture? Do they have a slight rise or has she been bent at some point you think?

Can I get I longer drop with just buying a new hitch shank or am I looking at a new system?

Second ? About sway. Truck comes with anti sway technology and the inter grated trailer braking system. As well the WD says optional as my load is less than WD recommendation. But I’m thinking it would be a nicer set up to still have the WD for leveling out based on various loading scenarios- any advice?

Besides it taking me forever to figure out all the new tech toys on this truck what are you all using with the newer trucks keeping in mind I don’t have a really heavy towing setup.

Looks like a new shank is needed....one that will provide the appropriate drop.
Happy Camping
Jim

[GM Airstream]

Hmmm I agree the old hitch is a little out of shape.... and if you can't get the bolts out ... next best thing is to cut them off... (orginally they were torqued to 300 ft lbs... but you can bet them threads rusted togeather.. and it will take a lot more to get 'em off...

but, instead of taking a chance on the hitch being cracked and might fail... as it appears its been through some tough times... I would go to etrailer and buy the new hitch head, maybe a new ball at the same time.. as they also wear.... and a new shank...
I also have seen them for sale used on craigslist... at about 1/4 the price

The new head will retro fit your old system.. no need in getting something new when the old stuff is still good... it comes with new bolts and shims... from reese...

Something that bent might have cracked the welds... I know it is a silent issue... umong the manufactures... and reese even now includes a shim so that you don't over stress the casting and weldments when you tighten it up today...

I have seen a few of the heads come apart... lucky no loss occured as it was caught in time... and it all starts with a unseen with the naked eye... hairline fracture from stressing the head when the bolts are tightened and their is too much space between the shank and head... Most of the oldies now do the dye penatrant test to insure that the casting weldments are still good... every so often... just to be safe..

the adventure contenues...

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by rvb

In the big picture, a new hitch assembly is not that expensive. It will probably be heavier duty than what you have, will work better and will have all new parts.

Just need the shank and ball. My bars chains and rabbit ears all good. Will get the shop to tap the slight bend on the sway ball arm. 100.00 vs 600+ for Anderson an upwards of 4-5 hundred plus taxation 13% get the coupler changed out as I’m sure that is worn out after 13 years of towing.

Ha my bank is broke and have lots of other things to get sorted like tires, window wind deflectors, truck cap, trailer maintenance and repair.. so somethings will have to wait to upgrade even if needed.

My truck will handle my little trailer much better than my old one and she was a nice tight sweet package. With new technology better engine and 3.73 gears integrated brake control, engine assist sway, it will be a breeze I’m sure. I have never had a problem with sway ever!!! I don’t drive too fast and always paying attention to the transports.

Although my truck specs say WD is optional I will still use my system, just makes the ride more comfortable with the steering not too light or heavy. Even transferring a bit of the trailer weight forward maintains better steering/ handling.

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by n2916s

If you do give up on it, I think your combination would be ideal for the Anderson hitch. Not too pricey, lightweight and easy hook-up.

FYI, while the Anderson hitch is OK for Weight Distribution it is not a sway prevention hitch.

[pteck]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

FYI, while the Anderson hitch is OK for Weight Distribution it is not a sway prevention hitch.

FYI, you're absolutely wrong. It's great for both WD and AS when used with the right setup.

Should be quite suitable in this case.

[n2916s]

Well, Frankly Frank,

"It is not a sway prevention hitch"

The manufacturer, the vast majority of Amazon reviewers, Mr. Truck, lots of satisfied customers on IRV2 and here seem to disagree and tend to love the Andersen.

Lab results? Personal experience?

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by pteck

FYI, you're absolutely wrong. It's great for both WD and AS when used with the right setup.

Should be quite suitable in this case.

I struggled with one for two seasons. The installation and set up was meticulously followed including replacing the coupler on the trailer (what a mistake that was).
After a harrowing 6 hour drive out west with cross winds and semis passing and constant sway I got tired of the white knuckle drive and dumped it at next stop. It simply lacks the counter force that is needed for an effective sway control. One can not push a chain any more than rope.
I would not recommend it to my worst enemy.

[pteck]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

I struggled with one for two seasons. The installation and set up was meticulously followed including replacing the coupler on the trailer (what a mistake that was).
After a harrowing 6 hour drive out west with cross winds and semis passing and constant sway I got tired of the white knuckle drive and dumped it at next stop. It simply lacks the counter force that is needed for an effective sway control. One can not push a chain any more than rope.
I would not recommend it to my worst enemy.

I absolutely believe you. Which is why I qualified my statement that it is effective for the right setup (application). For the OP, this is the right application. Your 30' may have been too much trailer, and vehicle possibly too little vehicle, for it to be effective.

Yet there are great successes with the Anderson. I myself have used one. On Pacific Coast Hwy, which is one of the windiest and windiest stretches with lots of grades. During Monterey car week no less with endless super cars breathing down my neck. Not one hint of instability even at elevate speeds.

[n2916s]

Fair enough. First person experience always valuable. Clearly, there are combinations that the Andersen is unsuitable for. However, for the OP's combination of heavy duty truck, relatively light trailer, I stand by my recommendation.

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by n2916s

Fair enough. First person experience always valuable. Clearly, there are combinations that the Andersen is unsuitable for. However, for the OP's combination of heavy duty truck, relatively light trailer, I stand by my recommendation.

Not to be argumentative however I need to repeat one more time that the Anderson has zero Sway Prevention attributes.
Not only did I come to realize this through my own struggle with one it was explained to me by multiple people in the hitch business why that is so.
The chains can not provide the countervailing force needed to push against the sway from the opposite direction.
Try to push an object with a chain or a rope. It can not be done.
This is not a matter of personal preference or luck or whatever.
I wish I would have been educated before getting involved with one.
Between changing out coupler on the trailer, the hitch and subsequent expenditures trying to make it work it cost me $ 1,000.00 for nothing. I couldn't even get the WD working until I reworked the chain length. Which was a experimentation on my part because Anderson could't help me.
When I finally gave up and replaced it with a Blue Ox I thought I died and went to heaven.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

When I finally gave up and replaced it with a Blue Ox I thought I died and went to heaven.

That's real world experience, for that setup. He only changed one thing and solved the problem!
I don't have a Blue Ox or Anderson, so I have no dog in this fight.

[rmkrum]

Where we are having trouble is a matter of semantics...IMHO

Sway PREVENTION is what Jim Hensley Pivot Point Projection design hitches accomplish. They mechanically prevent sway because of their linkage geometry. Examples are the Hensley Manufacturing products, and the ProPride (improved design) systems. These systems prevent sway no matter what the angle of the tow vehicle in relation to the trailer. The trailer tows and maneuvers like it is a fifth wheel system with these hitches.

Sway CONTROL is what other hitches do. They control sway by applying friction, the use of cams, or other design features. They flat do not PREVENT sway mechanically. They tend to be designed to reduce sway after it occurs, and usually when you are towing in a straight (ish) line with the TV. Their limitation is that if the road is slippery, their sway control will tend to force or hold the trailer into a bad angle with the TV after a turn, and tend to maintain it. This has all the limitations of towing on the ball, and maneuvers in a similar manner.

These comments are my observations from having used BOTH types of hitches, and were the reason I decided to go with a Jim Hensley design (ProPride for my setup)

Disagree if you must, but that's how I see the situation...