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Old 10-14-2011, 10:23 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by KeithC View Post
.but if any one of these failures had occurred at Internet speed
I find using the internet while trailering causes problems by itself

I will concur with what others have said: if you're breaking parts, something is set up wrong, and needs proper attention. If you cannot do that yourself, seek out the help of a pro.

- Bart

Bart Smaalders
Menlo Park, CA
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Old 10-14-2011, 10:26 PM   #16
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What's the real problem?

Hi, I have an Equal-i-zer hitch and have never had anything break or wear out on it. [seven years old] I have towed in all kinds of weather and situations where most people would leave their trailer in storage, but that's me. There are lots of different hitches out there, but I feel that if your problems are set-up related, [sure sounds like it] any hitch that you buy will also have problems too.

Unrelated example: Your car keeps burning out light bulbs so you switch to different brands and types of bulbs; They also keep burning out because your charging system is putting out too much voltage. Thus the alternator was the problem not the bulbs.

Basically what I'm saying is that if your hitch has problems because of operator error and you do the same thing with a different hitch, you have cured nothing.

Also is your tow vehicle one of those with the round tube receivers that are well known for failing?


2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent"
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:17 AM   #17
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got the hitch blues

so it was just march of this year that i was at the illustrious airstream dealer in buda texas to correct a problem with the hitch that they had fixed the prior october. it was in march that they discovered the cracked head..and at this time they "upgraded" the sway control bracket from the original configuration to the new improved the one that just tore in half yesterday....

so the "dealer has set this hitch up..just in the last six months....i don't know what else a person could do to see if it was set up properly...../????????

it is a 10000 lb trailer is 7600 lbs...i have the correct series of hitch.....

i have only towed with this hitch for 50000 miles
and the Four P's(Paula, Phoenix and Peabody II and Pearl)…Peabody is here…..
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:41 AM   #18
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Very, very happy with my ProPride, call Sean and tell him your story, bet you he can be of some assistance.
John "JFScheck" Scheck
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Old 10-15-2011, 07:08 AM   #19
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Reese HD Dual Cam

From a fellow Highland Lakes member.

You don't need the cost of a Hensley or ProPride for that trailer. I have towed with a Reese HD Dual Cam many thousands of miles on my last (Classic 25) and present (Classic 28) trailer with full satisfaction and without anything ever breaking. I can drive with one hand in most any conditions and I have had friends following me comment on how stable my trailer is.
John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2013 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison LTZ
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Old 10-15-2011, 08:45 AM   #20
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2006 25' Safari FB SE
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I agree with those who have said that the problem is most likely with the setup. I am pulling the same trailer and I have had zero problems. I purchased this used and the prior owner had a big 3/4 ton truck that was pretty high in the air. He had trouble with the hitch and decided to travel without the bars in position. The L pins were both bent and when I got it home I realized that the brackets were mounted incorrectly to the trailer frame.

I reset the hitch according to the instructions from the company and all has been well. It is a shame that the dealer can't figure out what is wrong.

I suggest that you call Progressive Manufacturing and ask them for some help, if only to find a distributor that knows what they are doing. If, on the other hand, you have lost all confidence, try to find a Reese dealer that knows what they are doing.

If you have lots of money to spend, you could go with a HA or PP but, as many others have suggested, you can do well with one of the others.
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Old 10-15-2011, 08:59 AM   #21
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Sorry you are having those problems. I'll just chime in also and say that you should call the Equalizer Co. and discuss it with them. They seem to be great folks. We have had ours since 2003 and have never had (knock wood) one single problem with it. Most folks that have them seem to be very pleased with them (as are the Reese dual cammers, Proprides and Hensley folks). Good luck with solving it to your satisfaction.
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2012 F150 Platinum Max Tow 7650 GVWR 3.73 Elec. Locking Diff.(Prev 2003 Dmax).
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Old 10-15-2011, 09:09 AM   #22
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I have never used a Hensley or ProPride. I have used Equalizer and Reese in various applications for years and have never had issues with either one. FWIW on my 1975 Airstream 31' when towing with the F150 I use heavier bars than when towing with the F350.

I am not an engineer, but if something keeps breaking there would appear to me to be a problem with the installation, especially given the fact there are thousands of happy owners of the Equalizer hitches out there. I would contact them and see what their recommendation is. Not to belittle your dealer, but not all dealers are competent, might need to find a different one, or learn to do it yourself.

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Old 10-15-2011, 03:29 PM   #23
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The Equal-i-zer must be one of the easiest hitches to set up if you simply follow the instructions. The company is generous with telephone support. You might want to try it yourself, one more time.

The fact that it is easy to set up doesn't mean it can't be done wrong. My dealer has done hundreds of them and still set mine up wrong. Too short of distance for the bar support brackets (should be 32" from center of the ball), not any down tilt to the hitch head (helps trailer to return to center and resist rollover in turns), and bar support brackets mounted too high (too much tension on the bars).

If your tow vehicle is a 3/4 ton, Inland Andy claims 1000# bars are too rigid. Of course others will dispute that claim, but they may not have his experience.

doug k
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Old 10-15-2011, 04:40 PM   #24
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Uh, what? "not any down tilt to the hitch head."

I think you have to have some downward tilt otherwise there would be no pressure at all and you might as well just tow on the ball only.

I agree, the directions are relatively simple to follow. I feel as though I have mine dialed in pretty good. I don't have a lot of pressure on the bars, I do have a tilt to the head and the numbers before hooking up and after are all within the given parameters. The most important factor is that it tows nicely. Just got back from the Balloon Festival and had to drive in some rather strong winds. No issues.

I will try to attach a photo Ken took. It doesn't actually show the hitch but you might get an idea of how level I am.

Click image for larger version

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Old 10-15-2011, 06:07 PM   #25
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Orillia , Ontario
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I'm no towing expert but I have to say that so far in 25 years of RVing the equalizer hitch has been the best one I have used to date.
But I think the 1000 lb bars are a problem for your tongue weight.
I believe my bars are 600 lb with a 750 lb tongue weight, and it works great but was set up by a towing specialist.
Head is angled and brackets are back 31 inches.

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Old 10-15-2011, 08:15 PM   #26
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The Airstream dealer in Buda TX is a "displaying dealer" only for Equalizer. There's only one "servicing dealer" in a 100 mile radius of Buda. Good luck with it....

Equal-i-zer® Hitch - Where to Buy - Dealers
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:12 AM   #27
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Since it's a second-tier hitch (and of lesser performance than similar rank Dual Cam), an upgrade to a Pro Pride is worth considering. Pullrite, too, if so inclined (and if available).

Going over the present hitch is worthwhile as to installation & setup. As is the performance of the GM hitch receiver (welds not cracked; not twisting under load).

Going over the hitch rigging is (or ought to be) mandatory, if not already done (scaled values adjusted). Time spent here establishes a baseline for comparison for any changes.

As the queersteer GM is a slightly weird beast I'd be inclined to ask of Andy Thomson at Can Am RV if he noted anything worth considering in hitch rigging.

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Old 10-16-2011, 08:20 AM   #28
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I'm going to have to disagree with some of you guys on this one.
I have used the Reese Dual Cam, and I don't like it as well as I do the Equal-I-Zer. It tows OK, but I don't think it tows any better than the Eq, and I don't like having to fight the chains with it.

That being said, the Reese is a decent hitch. I think it's a personal preference thing; Ford vs. Chevy. I like Dodge though

Truly the Hesley or Propride is a nicer hitch. I'd have one if I could justify the money. But I've pulled thousands of miles with my Eq.

It is a shame that many dealers are incompetent. I have a thread on here that I did years ago where I go into great detail on how to set up an Equal-I-Zer. The one problem I had was the link plates that bolt over the tongue that the L-brackets attach to; when I'd torque the two bolts down (one above the tongue and one below), it would pinch the tops and bottoms of the plates together and bow out the center. It was then easy to rock it back and forth. I made two doubler plates out of heavy steel plate and welded the factory link plates to that. That stiffened them up to where they couldn't bow. I then torqued it down and haven't had to touch them again in four years. Another guy on here just welded his link plates to the tongue when he had the same problem. But anyway, other than that initial setup issue, I've had no trouble with it at all.

You do need to have a cant angle on the ball. I believe it's 5-7 washers or something like that. You didn't say what bolt you're shearing off, but I'd bet it's the grade 8 bolt that goes in the shaft of the hitch that takes the slack out and rotates it tight against the washer stack; in other words, the bolt that sets the cant angle. There is a torque spec for that bolt; I believe it's 50 ft-lbs, but you'll have to look in the directions. If you're putting 100 ft-lbs on it, you could very easily shear that bolt. But anyway, the cant angle washer stack is one of your adjustment variables. There are two ways to adjust the hitch: One you vary the cant angle with the washer stack, and two you raise or lower the L-brackets in the link plates. Typically, one washer gets you about halfway in between the adjustment of one notch on the L-brackets. So, let's say you are slightly tail low with the truck with the L-brackets at X setting, and you go to slightly tail high by moving the L-brackets one notch, you can take the L-bracket back to where you were before and add one washer to your stack; that should get you about half way.

Anyway, not to sound like an Equal-I-Zer salesman. If it aggrivated me the way it has you, I'd probably throw it over the hill into the weeds too. I just think your dealer hosed you on the setup and is causing you problems. The hitch itself is a decent unit.

But, the Reese Dual Cam is a good one too and it won't break the piggy bank. The Hensley Arrow and the Propride are both excellent. I wish you the best.

- Jim
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