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Old 12-18-2013, 06:30 PM   #29
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Hitch-wise, I will go for the best at preventing sway, as long as it is appropriate weight-wise. I'll go for the best I can afford in these areas. Ease of use will be important, so I will keep that in mind, too.
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:44 PM   #30
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We purchased an Airstream trailer, and asked the same question.

We found out here that it is completely unsafe to even hook up the 7-way light cord to the tow vehicle, no matter what you may own.

Let alone ever take the trailer out on the highway.

We chose to simply build a simulated RV campsite in our own backyard. Complete with a picnic table and one of those state park charcoal grills.

Our neighbors may stare, but we have learned they simply have no understanding of the dangers of trailer sway, maligned weight distribution hitches, or the general propensity of a RV trailer to, without warning, come unhinged and cause untold horrors against all within eyesight.

At least on this forum, this is the only completely safe way to enjoy one's trailer.

It is completely amazing the number of well-intending folks that purchased an Airstream and pickup truck, only to explode into a red mist the moment they engaged the transmission to tow said trailer.

Beware, you have been warned.










Just a little humor folks,


Regards,

JD
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:56 PM   #31
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JD, That is a good one! I totally agree and don't forget that your trailer will blow up if you run with the fridge on.....

OK, quite a few years ago I had to decide between an Equalizer hitch and one of those other ones where you had to snap the chains into place. At that time it was suggested that you unhook the chains before you backed up. I didn't want to do that and I didn't like the whole tension on the chain thing. I purchased the Equalizer. The top of the line (cost wise) hitches were just out of my range.

The Equalizer is easy to hook up and to unhook. I have done it on level ground and ground that slopes to the right, the left, up and down. AND, towing two different trailers many miles, I have yet to experience any sway. I am not an engineer but if the Equalizer can't prevent sway from starting, mine has done a great job of stopping it once it does start. Of course I can't really say because I have never felt my trailer sway. Trailer Life magazine just named the Equalizer as the best hitch according to their latest customer survey. Take that for what it is worth.

Someone earlier said to go take a look at trailers and ask the owners. Watch them hook and unhook and then make your choice. A busy campground on a Sunday might be a good place to spend some time.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:11 PM   #32
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To the original poster, I didn't see anyone address this, but I would go get your tundra weighed with everyone you intend to camp with, and full tank of fuel and everything else you think you'll have n the truck while on your trip before you buy your trailer. That way you know exactly how much weight you have to play with between your actual weight and your max GVWR.

Also, that bed topper will likely add a couple of hundred pounds to your truck, reducing available tongue weight capacity/hauling capacity.

Good luck, happy camping
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:17 PM   #33
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Just an observation, your trailer tongue weight is just 54 lbs less than the Toyota's hitch rating. Every pound of weight distributing hitch adds to that load. Cargo in the trailer also adds to tongue weight.

The Anderson hitch is the lightest at about 60 lbs. The Propride/Hensley are the heaviest at around 200+ lbs (I think). All the others are probably in the 100lb give or take range.

I cant tell how auto makers come up with hitch weight ratings. Often it seems just a plain 10% of tow rating. I'm betting the bolts and metal of your hitch can take quite a large load, just up to you to decide how much overload above Toyotas rating is okay.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:19 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by streaminlife View Post
Thanks everyone, I can't tell you how helpful this thread has been. M.hony - Ok, now I understand what you posted earlier is the scale ticket - I did not realize that before and thought that was something different. I should have asked!

M.hony & SteveSueMac - Thanks for posting the actual weight of your rigs, puts my mind at ease. I think we will be good to go!

My other question has to do with trailer brakes. I've been searching around on the forums but can't seem to figure out how to choose the best trailer brakes for our set-up. Anything I need to consider safety-wise? (Please bear with my almost complete lack of knowledge in this area.)
Your truck is ready for a brake controller. The wiring harness is in the glove box. For about $85 you can get a trailer brake controller that is basically plug 'n' play. The Driver's side kick panel cover comes off to access the trailer brake wiring. You mount the controller wherever you want- under the dash, in the console-
Tekonsha, Prodigy, etc. are some brand names.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:22 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by streaminlife View Post
m.hony - I hope you get the hitch of your dreams soon!
If I never do get "the hitch of my dreams" the Equal-I-Zer is doing fine. It does, however, require periodic maintenance- lubrication and tightening-
The Equal-I-Zer is a very good second best.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:24 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by streaminlife View Post
Hitch-wise, I will go for the best at preventing sway, as long as it is appropriate weight-wise. I'll go for the best I can afford in these areas. Ease of use will be important, so I will keep that in mind, too.
All hitches are good for all weights-
You choose "weight bars" according to the weight of your trailer.
I have 1,000# bars. Some have 1,200# or 600# bars.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:25 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by streaminlife View Post
Thank you, Doug. I will definitely look into all the hitches. Safety is the main concern, so we are willing to spend more for the safest configuration, if it comes to that. Is your Ram truck a 1/2 ton gas engine, then? (Sorry, I know little about trucks - steep learning curve for me!) We plan on getting a cap for the Tundra and using the bed space to store a few things, such as a couple of bikes, some camping equipment, and tools. In your opinion, would that be pushing it? I have been looking at the 25' Airstreams, just in case we need to size down, but the 28' is the one we are planning on buying. Thanks!
Our 25' Airstream is our second new trailer purchase after having a 20'; we considered everything in its purchase.

We knew there would be comfort problems with the dinette/lounge seating and there was, so we converted it to reclining chairs and a folding table.

We knew storage was limited and intended to stay with a half-ton truck or SUV, so we thoughtfully manage our food and gear. We put an Airstream bicycle rack on the back of the trailer so trailer tongue weight is actually reduced when the bikes are put on. We have a solar system on the trailer so we no longer need a generator. We have a full awning package to shade the trailer and reduce summer heat, as well as seeking shady sites in summer. We take only what we need, purchase food or firewood along the way, and use clothing and gear that serves at least two purposes. For example a cast iron dutch oven can be used on stovetop, oven, or campfire. Layer clothing to accommodate any weather condition.

And we wanted the living space in the front of the trailer, because although there may be sites where views are prettier in back there are also views that are not, and the back is usually quieter for sleeping. We have never had a bad site with the front living space.

However if we bought a trailer for near full-time use it would be a Flying Cloud/International 30' with recliner seating option, choosing this only for the seating comfort over the 28'. I would still manage it with a half-ton truck or SUV because of the need for a safe, efficient, and maneuverable daily driver when not towing, which is most of the time.

The Hensley/Propride hitch design eliminates sway, is uneventful in heavy wind conditions/semis blowing by, and can be easily adjusted for any weight distribution need with simple screw jacks. The weight is less of a concern when you consider other hitches weigh something as well (it's the difference that matters), and the hitch extends the trailer tongue length allowing the truck trailer tail gate to open even with the trailer connected, and shifting some hitch weight toward the trailer.

That's how we chose our Airstream, hitch, and tow vehicle and it is perfect for us, everyone is different.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:30 PM   #38
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To the original poster, I didn't see anyone address this, but I would go get your tundra weighed with everyone you intend to camp with, and full tank of fuel and everything else you think you'll have n the truck while on your trip before you buy your trailer. That way you know exactly how much weight you have to play with between your actual weight and your max GVWR.

Also, that bed topper will likely add a couple of hundred pounds to your truck, reducing available tongue weight capacity/hauling capacity.

Good luck, happy camping
I posted scale tickets (4th post) with my Tundra and Classic 30 loaded beyond normal camping- we had extra stuff on board for an auction- all numbers were within the ranges specified on the door placard for front axle GVW, rear axle GVW, tow capacity, tongue weight, payload-
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:33 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by kscherzi View Post
Just an observation, your trailer tongue weight is just 54 lbs less than the Toyota's hitch rating. Every pound of weight distributing hitch adds to that load. Cargo in the trailer also adds to tongue weight.

The Anderson hitch is the lightest at about 60 lbs. The Propride/Hensley are the heaviest at around 200+ lbs (I think). All the others are probably in the 100lb give or take range.

I cant tell how auto makers come up with hitch weight ratings. Often it seems just a plain 10% of tow rating. I'm betting the bolts and metal of your hitch can take quite a large load, just up to you to decide how much overload above Toyotas rating is okay.
The number is cut and dried-
It is whether you have a Class III, IV, or V hitch- I think Class IV is 1,000#, Class V is 1,200#, and so on and so on and scooby dooby doo...
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:34 PM   #40
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I just looked at the ProPride website, and wow they are expensive! would be really cool.
........

ONE QUICK QUESTION while I think of it: Is the ProPride hitch weight distributing, too??

Yes the PP IS WD !

Yes it's a lot of $. No one can make decision for you. But, once you tow, you will know.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:50 PM   #41
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M.honey, I thought streaminlife was the original poster?
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:16 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Gruffid View Post
To the original poster, I didn't see anyone address this, but I would go get your tundra weighed with everyone you intend to camp with, and full tank of fuel and everything else you think you'll have n the truck while on your trip before you buy your trailer. That way you know exactly how much weight you have to play with between your actual weight and your max GVWR.

Also, that bed topper will likely add a couple of hundred pounds to your truck, reducing available tongue weight capacity/hauling capacity.

Good luck, happy camping
Yes, streaminlife is the op.
You said you hadn't seen anyone address this...
I had addresses this...
I posted a scale ticket on a trip, more than loaded for camping for 10 days- we had more on the truck than what we would ever have- extra cargo-
Besides, the op already has the Tundra...
There are some on the forums that say it will not work for one reason or another.
There are others on the forums that have been using Tundras for years.
I am towing the heaviest Airstream made without any problems and without exceeding any weights/capacities with firewood in the bed of the truck.

To the op-
Ignore most "advice" you get on here-
Get you that beautiful shiny silver trailer and tow it with your Tundra!
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