Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-15-2017, 06:51 PM   #21
3 Rivet Member
 
BessieB's Avatar

 
1997 21' Excella
Carson City , Nevada
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 174
Images: 6
Dealer stuff

I know you are in Florida, but Dave Smith motors in Kellogg, ID was a great experience. At the time we saved $17,000 buying a truck from them. Flew up, they picked us up at the airport. Got to the dealership around noon, and drove away around 3pm in our new truck. Compared to dealers in Nevada, it was a no brainer to go to them.
__________________

BessieB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2017, 07:36 AM   #22
Rivet Master
 
2017 19' International
Tallahassee , Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 533
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob662 View Post
The dealer is keeping the hold-back. Trucks have the highest hold-back, so if it's a truck you're buying, encroach on it somewhat.
What is the hold-back?
__________________

WhereStream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2017, 07:50 AM   #23
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 7,851
Hi

The simple answer to the question (if you want one off the lot) is to wait 6 or 9 months. You will get what ever they have left for less money than you will pay now. If you *want* the truck they have on the lot (and those exact options), that's a great thing. (If you can find a 2016 in 6 months ... it will be a real deal.)

The other answer is that most of what is on the lot around here is pretty well topped up with options. If the truck is just for towing, you can save money ordering one to your specific needs. Everything on the lot around here is 4x4, if you are ok with 2WD, drop it and save money. You *do* want the tow package (and those nice mirrors). You do want the trailer brake controller. You may not want much else.

Bob
uncle_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2017, 09:24 AM   #24
2 Rivet Member
 
2012 30' International
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 68
As others have said, do the research so that you know the invoice price of the vehicle you want. Email (dealer email addresses can be found on their websites) all the dealers of your preferred make in your area (all that you can, but at least a half dozen). In your email, say that you have emailed all the dealers in the area, and that you are inviting them to reply to your email with their best price. Don't indicate what you're willing to pay; let them bid for your business. Be very specific about what model you want, as well as any options you want. Let them know what exterior and interior colors you would accept, if colors are important to you. Let them know that you are definitely going to purchase a vehicle within 48 hours from whichever dealer offers you the best price. Tell them you will not negotiate by email, phone, or in person; they simply have one chance to make their best offer by email. When you receive an email with an offer you like, phone them to confirm details, and that there is no "funny business." Then set an appointment to pay for your vehicle and pick it up. I haven't used this method personally because I typically buy used, but I have a friend who has used it successfully several times. If I buy a new vehicle in the future, this is how I'll do it. Good luck.
russingr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2017, 09:53 AM   #25
Rivet Master
 
Mollysdad's Avatar
 
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,869
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhereStream View Post
It has been well over a decade since I've bought new from a dealer, and I don't know the best approach in the modern era.
If you want to save money, don't buy new.

It comes down to the value of your trade in. They will manipulate the numbers to make it look like a good deal when in fact, you'd be WAY better off selling your car outright and going into the dealer without a trade.

My last deal, and it was fair, I afterwards realized I should have noticed something the dealer did.
He listed all the add ons first, then subtracted my trade.
I should have taken his price, subtracted my trade and then added the extras (dealer's fee, tax, tag, prep, etc.)
That way, the extra fees look like they are negotiable, instead of being a part of the cost.
It's hard to explain without making a list. Why should a dealer's fee be added? It's nothing more than additional profit.

I had prepared myself with the NADA book value of my car.
It was a desirable trade, he wanted it, but he said, "I'm not going to give you that much."
So, I was faced with walking out or agreeing. Since I had done my homework, and couldn't find a better deal, I agreed, with a bit of bad feelings. I love my new (almost) Tundra, though.

If anyone thinks they can beat the house, they've never been to Vegas.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wavelength View Post
Most stress is caused by the buyers not the dealers
Ha! Yes, those pesky customers should just give the dealership what he wants.
Mollysdad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2017, 05:22 AM   #26
Rivet Master
 
2017 19' International
Tallahassee , Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 533
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
It comes down to the value of your trade in.
I won't be trading in my Suburban. It is in excellent shape, with low miles. I can easily sell it myself.

I prefer a no-trade conversation with car sales folk.

Makes it easier for me to negotiate ... less monkey business.
WhereStream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2017, 08:50 AM   #27
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 7,851
Hi

In this day and age, there are a number of places you can sell your trade. You don't have to sell it yourself. Separating the trade in from the new purchase will always give you a better view of what is what. It also involves another step in the process. Where I live, separating the two parts of the deal has sales tax implications. Sometimes you just can't win...

Bob
uncle_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2017, 09:55 AM   #28
Rivet Master
 
Rgentum's Avatar
 
2016 27' Flying Cloud
Woodinville , Washington
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 542
"As others have said, do the research so that you know the invoice price of the vehicle you want. Email ... all the dealers of your preferred make in your area .... In your email, say that you have emailed all the dealers in the area, and that you are inviting them to reply to your email with their best price. Don't indicate what you're willing to pay; let them bid for your business."
_______________________________

My experience has been different. When I have set up a bidding war among dealers, most of them "won't play," because they don't think it's worth their time, and if they do play, their bid will include a bargaining cushion, so I really won't get their truly "best" offer. Furthermore, if I ask a dealer for his "best price," and the dealer responds, I would put the dealer in an awkward personal position to try to bargain with him further, as I would be asking him to admit to both of us that his "best" price was not really his best price after all, so, emotionally, if we continued to bargain and he accepted a lesser price, he'd feel as if he was "eating crow." Why put anybody in a position in which they would have to eat their words? My experience is that bargains work best without any party taking a firm position --- keep things loose & open without it getting personal.

Rather, what I have done is, as a result of my research, to determine my best "reasonable" price that I'm willing to pay & also the absolute most price that I would be willing to pay (my "drop dead" price). That way, if any dealer accepts my "reasonable" price, I'll get the product & be really happy about it. Then I call or go see a dealer, tell him what I want, what I'm willing to pay, and that I have the money for it and can pay immediately, and ask "Can you sell me the product for $[my reasonable price]? --- if so, you have a sale.") That way the dealer is presented with a firm offer & all he has to do is to say "Yes," and he's made a sale --- no bidding, no waiting, no chance to be outbid, etc. Sometimes it works. Sometimes the dealer won't play, and I'll go on to my next dealer. Most times, however, the dealer says, "I'll get back to you." Sometimes, that works with a "Yes," and sometimes he'll say, "I can't do it for $x, but I can do it for $y," which often is not that much more than $x. In any event, now you're dealing one on one with a dealer and not in a bidding situation, and in my experience, I've typically gotten the product for my "reasonable" price or something quite close to it. My only caveat is that the "my reasonable price" has got to be realistic, somewhere around invoice (or low market price if there is no invoice price), and not a ridiculous, pie-in-the-sky price, so the dealer will take you seriously.

This is not to say that some other process won't work. Only to say that I've had decades of more-or-less daily bargaining experience in my work, and the foregoing is what has worked best for me as a buyer. And I will say that bidding wars have worked for me, but so far pretty much only with real property, such as land or homes etc. and where I've been the seller, not the buyer.
__________________
Alta & Richard, Seattle area --- WBCCI 8873
"Aurum": 2018 Ram/Cummins 3500
"Argentum": 2016 AS FC 27 FB
"BigDog": M Harlequin Great Dane, 150 lb
WL7Z --- NAUI --- WSBA
Rgentum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2017, 10:08 AM   #29
Rivet Master
 
Rgentum's Avatar
 
2016 27' Flying Cloud
Woodinville , Washington
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 542
Uncle Bob said, "Where I live, separating the two parts of the deal (ie, trade-in and purchase price) has sales tax implications."
______________________________________

The two taxing jurisdictions in which I spent the majority of my life, CA & WA, have distinctly different treatments of "trade-ins." According to my understanding & experience with vehicles, including trailers, CA determines its sales tax solely on the purchase price, ignoring trade-in value. WA determines its sales tax on the difference between purchase price and trade-in value. Therefore, in CA, it often makes sense to sell the potential trade-in product personally, while in WA, it usually makes sense to sell the trade-in product to the dealer (ie, to "trade it in"), even though a dealer's trade-in price will be less that one could sell it for personally.
__________________
Alta & Richard, Seattle area --- WBCCI 8873
"Aurum": 2018 Ram/Cummins 3500
"Argentum": 2016 AS FC 27 FB
"BigDog": M Harlequin Great Dane, 150 lb
WL7Z --- NAUI --- WSBA
Rgentum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2017, 07:36 AM   #30
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 7,851
Hi

Long ago and far away I bought a new car. We went in and chatted up the sales guy and mentioned this was the first car we would buy together. He gave us a pretty good price. He also gave us the caution "don't mention this price to anybody else". Being young and not to experienced, I shopped the price. He caught major grief about it. Seems that all the local dealers (like for 300 miles around) had an "agreed discount level". The price he gave us was below that number ... Needless to say, that was the best price on the car anywhere we could get to.

Bob
uncle_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2017, 05:05 PM   #31
Rivet Master
 
2012 19' International
Southeastern MI , Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,996
I buy them 2 or 3 years old, pay cash, and let someone else take the depreciation hit.
__________________
2018 International Serenity 27' FB
Michelin 16 tires
Hensley Arrow hitch

Tow Vehicle: Ram Laramie 2500 crew cab, Cummins 6.7 Turbodiesel
Countryboy59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2017, 06:24 AM   #32
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 7,851
Quote:
Originally Posted by Countryboy59 View Post
I buy them 2 or 3 years old, pay cash, and let someone else take the depreciation hit.
Hi

On the last ~four year old truck I sold, the depreciation was about 2X the sales tax. You could debate how old it was since it sat on a dealer's lot for quite a few days... err... months .... err ... before it sold new. That had a major impact on the price when I bought it.

Bob
uncle_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2017, 03:18 AM   #33
Rivet Master
 
2012 19' International
Southeastern MI , Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,996
Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

On the last ~four year old truck I sold, the depreciation was about 2X the sales tax. You could debate how old it was since it sat on a dealer's lot for quite a few days... err... months .... err ... before it sold new. That had a major impact on the price when I bought it.

Bob
I pay about half price for a 3 year old truck. They are still worth quite a bit but nowhere near new.
__________________
2018 International Serenity 27' FB
Michelin 16 tires
Hensley Arrow hitch

Tow Vehicle: Ram Laramie 2500 crew cab, Cummins 6.7 Turbodiesel
Countryboy59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2017, 05:16 AM   #34
3 Rivet Member
 
2000 25' Safari
Denver , North Carolina
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 144
Images: 3
Blog Entries: 16
Discussions like this are some of the best parts of airforum. I am giving up for now in my search for a new TV. Time has run out and we're pushing off next week for International. Yes do your homework and have a walk away price. Here in the Southeast used trucks move FAST. They often are on one of the previously mentioned used car websites for a day or two. I lost a great deal by walking away to check my numbers one more time, hours only from posting to sold. I'm sure I would do better selling my current TV myself. But I'm taking the titile with me and the "cash" to make a sale on the road. I'll trade in on the spot for the right deal. I was spoiled by 30 years of company cars and a very good friend from High School in the car / truck business. Dealing for a new to me TV is not how I want to spend my summer vacation.
mbubbaca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2017, 06:29 AM   #35
Rivet Master
 
1988 25' Excella
1987 32' Excella
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,117
Blog Entries: 1
While price is important and you want to do a "good job" of buying, getting the right TV set up for pulling might really be a more important point to worry about. A good deal is not a good deal if it does not suit the purpose.
Bill M. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2017, 09:44 AM   #36
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 7,851
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill M. View Post
While price is important and you want to do a "good job" of buying, getting the right TV set up for pulling might really be a more important point to worry about. A good deal is not a good deal if it does not suit the purpose.
Hi

Bingo !!

Half price on a $80,000 used truck may not be worth it if all you need can be found on a $35,000 new truck.

Bob
uncle_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2017, 08:02 PM   #37
4 Rivet Member
 
2016 30' International
Florence , Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 477
If you know what you want, another approach is to look at some of the user forums for those vehicles and you will often find out what dealers offer the best for that brand.

For instance if you wanted a RAM 2500 or 3500, you could find a very active forum member on cumminsforum who is actually the internet sales guy at a dealer and would make you a deal you'd be hard pressed to beat anywhere else on a brand new vehicle including special orders. He usually delivers pretty far as well. I think he's out of Indiana.

Other forums may not have sales people active, but you'll get word of mouth on who deals and who doesn't.
__________________

joshjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Great deal but No Title, Should I get it? How to get title in MI or NY? Gypset Title, VIN & Registration 13 03-28-2017 05:15 PM
Is putting cart before the horse a good idea? Is this a good deal on the cart? cantdrv55 Buyer Guidelines 33 11-10-2014 02:17 PM
right tires for '69 airstream - how to get a good deal.? Airgirl1 Tires 3 09-22-2014 06:59 AM
Deal(er) or no deal(er)? Where should I get repair / upgrade done? longdog General Repair Forum 11 09-18-2013 08:05 PM
Did I get a good deal? Nixon66 Vintage Kin 11 08-06-2008 05:06 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
×