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Old 06-14-2014, 06:32 PM   #15
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Everyone has been so helpful and I'm so greatfull! For about a $500-$1000 budget... What should I buy?
Here we go. This will probably turn into a popularity contest, like Ford/Chevy, but for that budget you should be able to get most any WD hitch except the ProPride or Hensley.

I would suggest doing some reading on here and decide which one you like the best, but try to get one that is also anti-sway, rated for the tongue weight of your trailer, and then enlist some experienced help with the set-up. The set-up is at least 75%, if not more.
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Old 06-14-2014, 06:48 PM   #16
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rodsterinfl...Attachment 214222Attachment 214223

Everyone has been so helpful and I'm so greatfull! For about a $500-$1000 budget... What should I buy?
Maybe a new truck...

1163 payload ouch! Not much in the way of payload left on your vehicle. If your axle weight is 900lbs that leaves 263lbs before your truck is over loaded. Subtract your weight, any passengers.... well...
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Old 06-14-2014, 06:53 PM   #17
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New tires ought to help?
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Old 06-14-2014, 06:56 PM   #18
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I don't understand? Seems like a light trailer for a truck that has 14,000lb towing capacity... WD and sway control should take care of towing if I've been listening ok...
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:01 PM   #19
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I'm confused...
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:02 PM   #20
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Your model's base tongue weight is 700 lbs. Add about 100 for LP and hitch weight. 800 so that leaves you 363 pounds for people and cargo. Put as much camping cargo as you can in the trailer instead of the truck- favor the rear. Fudging a bit is probably ok 100 lbs or so. As far as a hitch goes in the price category. There are people on the forum that recommend Reese hitches but I am not familiar with them. This is what I could find. Supposedly this is the top of the line model up to 1200lbs tongue weight distribution. Straight-Line. It runs about $500. They have an up to 800 lb version but you are that already so, as Sean at ProPride told me when I was shopping an right at my tongue limit of 1000lb bars versus the next one up, go up one more.

You are still within the limits of your vehicle. What others are noticing is that your payload figure is low. Tires do make a difference but the figure is not just about tires rather the trucks build options. Check your tires for load rating D or E and the pounds of load they can take. Is your F150 a super crew? If so it weighs about 5300 lbs or so divided by four then consider the tires load max, what is left divided by four again? That is their load rating for the truck plus the tow load (tongue) You should be fine since they should have equipped the truck with tires that can take the truck and its maximum payload.

Strait-Line Weight Distribution w Sway Control - Trunnion Bar - 12,000 lbs GTW, 1,200 lbs TW Reese Weight Distribution RP66074
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:04 PM   #21
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Thanks rodsterninfl... Is part of my limitation my tires? Would upgrading my tires help considerably? I see f150's pulling larger loads than what I will be towing all the time.
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:18 PM   #22
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Don't worry, I was confused until I started learning and reading (thanks to all the fine knowledge here). Turns out that a vehicle's payload capacity is equally as important (if not more) than it's towing capacity. Towing capacity is a theoretical number, and at times a bit of a sales gimmick. (But there are guys towing with mini-vans who will argue otherwise, I'm still confused)

There was another guy on here J something that was crying up a storm in a couple threads because he bought his Ecoboost model had a 1200lb payload and he found once he hooked up his larger trailer (which still weighed less than the vehicles theoretical towing capacity) he couldn't add his wife, dog and a generator to his vehicle without being over payload capacity.

But you know, as others have stated depends how much you are carrying with you, carrying in the bed, or in the trailer. I think this is part of the reason so many guys are quick to suggest the larger trucks.

But if you're just going for a weekend you'll be fine. We're going full-time so it's been a struggle for me to determine the best payload, because I personally don't want a giant F250 or 2500 with huge long wheel base.
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:22 PM   #23
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Thanks Mikekey

Do better tires help my payload?
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:22 PM   #24
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Tires do make a difference but the figure is not just about tires rather the trucks build options. Check your tires for load rating D or E and the pounds of load they can take. Is your F150 a super crew? If so it weighs about 5300 lbs or so divided by four then consider the tires load max, what is left divided by four again? That is their load rating for the truck plus the tow load (tongue) You should be fine since they should have equipped the truck with tires that can take the truck and its maximum payload.
Not necessarily. Yes you need load rated tires but most likely the tires on your truck are original? If so, they HAD to be rated for the truck and its payload rating. Ford includes gas in its weight figures. Each truck is built with different specs, springs, packages, etc. Their PAYLOAD rating differs because of that as does the towing rating. These two figures are critical to towing. The very reason some trailer owners debate this is over the payload rating the achilles heal of a 1/2 ton truck and towing RVs. Many step up to 250 trucks because of payload. Towing capacity is no problem. They can pull the weight all day. The bearing weight (payload) is different though. You just have to check your tires. Your hitch, payload are to spec. You have a 363 pound figure for people (with some fudging for more perhaps). The payload figure is what salespeople are completely ignorant of with regard to TOWING. Tires will not change what your truck is designed to carry. They have an impact as they have to be able to carry the load as well but...I hope this helps.
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:24 PM   #25
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Yes, thanks rodsterinfl
... I had no idea... I'm glad I didn't get the 28' airstream!!!!!
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:39 PM   #26
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I've added Bilstein shocks on the entire truck... Does that help my payload capacity...

... Sorry for sounding like an UTTER iDIOT... But I'm a bit shocked.
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:41 PM   #27
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There are many options and choices. To say that I think you're good to go with what you have would be irresponsible on my part. The stickers tell part of the story... The hitch sticker shows the design limits of the receiver when used with a dead weight or a weight distributing hitch. It does not imply that the tow vehicle is designed to handle the maximum load. The door sticker shows the maximum design load for each axle and the simple combined total for the vehicle but it does not list the towing capacity. In simple terms, the tow limit factors in the vertical load the truck is designed to support with the trailer attached and the horizontal load the drivetrain, steering and brakes sustain while pulling and stopping the trailer. Passengers, gear, etc., have to be accounted for.

I would start here: http://www.forestriverinc.com/downlo...wGuide2012.pdf

This page lists among all the others, the various F150 combinations including the differently equipped 3.5l Ecoboost 2012 models. You will see that depending on how the Ecoboost is configured, an F150 may be rated to tow from about 8000# to over 11,000#.

The next step is to find some public scales nearby. Try to pick a time when they aren't busy as a courtesy to working drivers who need to get on and be on their way. Truck stops often have scales and for about $10 or so you can get weighed. These scales are often segmented so you pull on so that your steer axle is on the 1st segment, the drive axle on the 2nd and the trailer axle(s) on the 3rd. If you need to make adjustments, you pull off, do what you need and come back for a reweigh. Sometimes they will only charge a buck or 2 for each reweigh on that scale within 24 hours. If you're near a farming area, many ag business have scales. These are often single platforms, so some math is needed. You pull up so that only the steer axle is weighed and recorded, then pull forward to get steer and drive. The difference will be the load on the drive axle. Then pull forward and get the total. Subtracting the steer and drive from the gross will give you what's on the trailer axle(s). In some areas, DOT weigh stations leave their scales on when they are closed. You probably don't want to run through the DOT scales when they're open, but if you assistant can see and record the readings for you while you drive on and off, this can be a freebie. Scales of this caliber typically have a resolution of 20#, so you will notice that all readings will end in some multiple of 20 and that is close enough for what you need.

Getting weights of your pickup solo and again with the TT in tow will provide valuable info. You also want to have your truck and trailer loaded pretty much as you would normally travel, full tank of gas, passengers, gear, groceries, propane, etc.

Now you can compare your numbers with those posted on your stickers to ensure you aren't exceeding any axle limits. Also, compare your solo truck axle weights with those you get with the trailer attached. Without a WD hitch, you will see most of the hitch weight is appled to the rear axle. What you don't want to see is a reduction of the weight on the steer axle.

This is where the weight distributing hitch comes in. Through leverage it redistributes the load placed on the rear axle so some of it is shared with the steer axle and some with trailer axle(s). When properly set up, the pickup will retain a level aspect front to rear after loading or possible a slight lowering of the rear with relation to the front and the trailer will be level front to rear. Now for the anti-sway component. Passing big rigs, especially those coming the other way on 2-lane roads can induce a sway in the trailer. Many factors will determine how bad the sway can become. Speed and driver skill and reaction can mitigate or compound sway. In the worst case, the whole rig can end upside down in the ditch. There are a variety of devices that address this issue, and an equal number of opinions on which is best. There are many threads here that discuss the various brands and types.
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:45 PM   #28
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Just found this... Can anybody comment... I'm a super crew 4x4 perhaps the earlier photo I showed was not considering thisClick image for larger version

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