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Old 10-01-2017, 10:43 PM   #43
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Here is my take on any setup, adjust the bars where the unit drives the best and thats it. I have pulled my heavier trailer with my 04 Tahoe, adjusted the bars where it felt great driving, and thats it... I never did weigh it, and I own a truck scale.
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Old 10-03-2017, 06:09 AM   #44
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Front end still seems too light....aren't you getting a floating feeling in the front end, sway over 55 mph and your car being blown sideways when a semi passes you?
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Old 10-03-2017, 06:20 AM   #45
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Haven’t had any feelings of sway or the wind or semis blowing me around. The front end feels the most planted in this configuration than any I’ve felt with this trailer in past two months of occasional use. I’ve probably been out on road 7 times now with 4 different hitch configurations. One of which was ball only when I picked up the trailer and that one was a terrible drive compared to all the others.
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Old 10-03-2017, 06:24 AM   #46
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If I can’t figure out my weights and lower my tongue weight I’ll need to find heavier WD bars for my hitch and I’m planning to change out the receiver on my truck but parts have been out of stock for a while so I’m waiting on that one for a bit. I likely can’t get much more transfer to front axle before some of these changes.
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Old 10-03-2017, 09:45 PM   #47
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Honestly, my combination feels better with a little squat on the TV. I think that people might try too hard for “level” at the expense of stability. I want the back axle of my TV to stay well planted.

Additionally, I have found that tightening my 1200 pound bars too tight makes my combination ride too bouncy. Just my take on my experiences.
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:28 PM   #48
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I appreciate the comments. I’m trying to figure out what’s right for me in my case right now. I’m glad you’ve figured out your rig and what works for you.

I finally got a dry weight on my camper tonight and it was heavier than I expected. My safari’s tongue weight is about 730lbs (includes one full and one almost empty 20lb tank). All water tanks were empty and the battery was on board. Overall weight of trailer was 4450lbs. Still seems high to me on the overall weight compared to what factory weights should be (around 3700-3900 I figure).

I can account for most of the tongue weight minus about 70lbs so I figure I’m close to factory spec there. Airstream said my model was 590lbs tongue plus propane and any other options. So if I add 60lbs of propane and tanks then I’m at 650. There are other options so I’m probably close. Still she’s a heavier trailer than I expected. And as it sits “dry” before I load it she is at about 16% tongue weight. Sadly most of the storage of the heavy items (food, fresh water, kitchen stuff etc) ends up forward of the axles so that adds to my loading challenge in trying to keep the tongue weight down.
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:55 PM   #49
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I am not going to say I have read every post on this thread, I have kinda skimmed it, it seems to me that the you say it rides and drives fine, no handling or stability problems. Are you chasing the ghost of tires fitting the wheel wells like when it is unladen?

I can get the back wheels of my TV either higher or lower than stock using my WD jacks, my truck feels and drives better with the tires sitting deeper in the wheel wells than any picture I have seen on this thread.

I understand that you are looking for your answer, but I can only offer you my experience right?

My experience is that after trying what many on this forum recommend for getting WD “right” “by the numbers”, “by scale”, the three TVs I have used on my trailer feel and handle better with more weight on the rear axle than “doing it right” would dictate.

The primary goal in my view is a safe and well mannered combination. From what I grasp here, that is what you already have. #JustSayin
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Old 10-03-2017, 11:05 PM   #50
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Let me give you my first experience on setting the WD “right”. At the end of a 20 mile trip in the rain after setting the WD, I turned off the interstate up a slight incline typical of a highway ramp where my drive wheels broke traction to the point where I had trouble even making it up the grade.

That is when I abandoned “doing it right” in exchange for what drives right. Those back wheels, doing more work towing, need some of that extra weight to hook up like they should.... for safety’s sake.
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Old 10-04-2017, 07:55 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
Honestly, my combination feels better with a little squat on the TV. I think that people might try too hard for “level” at the expense of stability. I want the back axle of my TV to stay well planted.

Additionally, I have found that tightening my 1200 pound bars too tight makes my combination ride too bouncy. Just my take on my experiences.
Hi

Are you taking weight off of your front axle (compared to no tow)? That's generally considered to be a bad idea. I'm assuming you have checked and are not doing so .....

As long as both axles are "in ratings" you aren't going to break anything moving weight to the rear. With variable rate springs, you likely will change the ride moving things back.

Past that, it comes down to handling first and ride second as you fiddle things. If you are putting significantly more WD in the rear, it might bring up the question of why the big(er) truck in the first place ....

Bob
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:26 AM   #52
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Need some thoughts on my TV and AS combo

Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi



Are you taking weight off of your front axle (compared to no tow)? That's generally considered to be a bad idea. I'm assuming you have checked and are not doing so .....



As long as both axles are "in ratings" you aren't going to break anything moving weight to the rear. With variable rate springs, you likely will change the ride moving things back.



Past that, it comes down to handling first and ride second as you fiddle things. If you are putting significantly more WD in the rear, it might bring up the question of why the big(er) truck in the first place ....



Bob


I don’t know if I have taken some weight off the front axle, I have never checked. I just adjust my bars to what feels best driving and go with it.

With my current load, “five fingers” down on my WD jacks is just right.
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Old 10-05-2017, 11:57 AM   #53
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By the numbers was always with approx 10% more TW on rear axle.

A fundamental problem of using a pickup is the lousy FF/RR weight bias. Unless the bed is loaded to change that.

It's also why an empty bed pickup is such lousy daily driver.
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Old 10-06-2017, 06:26 AM   #54
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By the numbers was always with approx 10% more TW on rear axle.

A fundamental problem of using a pickup is the lousy FF/RR weight bias. Unless the bed is loaded to change that.

It's also why an empty bed pickup is such lousy daily driver.
Hi

... we now seem to be talking about multiple different TV's. Some have data and some don't have data .... Data or not, I'm not arguing against a bit more weight to the rear. My only point it that you *can* overdo it.

Bob
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Old 10-12-2017, 01:04 PM   #55
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In post 9 of this thread linked here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...ml#post1984258 I stated that the more I increase my steer axle weight the better it handles and I haven't crossed the "line" yet.

Well, now I have crossed the "line". I have a set of 1000# and 1500# Blue Ox bars. My rig handles perfectly on 11 links with 1000# bars. I have total confidence in that setup after completing a 5000 mile trip on with no sway, no push-pull and no affects from gusty winds. The rig is stable and confidence inspiring at any speed and condition.

But in my quest to test different setups, I decided to give my 1500# bars a try. So I hitched up the Airstream with the 1500# bars, cranked them up to 11 links. My Titan XD had less than 1/2" of drop with this setup vs. about 1" with the 1000# bars. My steer axle looked "normal" with this setup versus slightly high with the 1000# bars. I started driving toward my CAT scale to weigh my rig . . .

I could immediately feel that the truck to Airstream connection was very rigid. The truck felt every little bump on the road. When I entered the Interstate highway, I was not at all confident with the setup. The winds were light and broad side. The Airstream felt twitchy and insecure, like I was riding on the "edge" of control. When vehicles passed me (even small cars) I got the uncomfortable push-pull. I could not bring myself to exceed 60 MPH with this "over-barred" setup. I therefore bailed on my plan to weigh the rig with this setting and got off the Interstate.

So what I have learned is that you can go over the "line" of more front axle weight. The effect of over-barring felt nearly identical to the feeling of under-barring (using less links on my 1000# bars). I felt the push-pull from passing traffic and wind gusts. This experience tells me it is difficult to know whether you are over-barred or under-barred. All I can say is to keep trying different settings until you "stumble" across the setting sweet spot where you gain complete confidence in your setup. I also feel that being "under-barred" is preferable to being over-barred.

These are my experiences that I share to help others in setting up their Blue Ox and to hopefully help Inthewoods tweak his setup.
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:45 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by AirMiles View Post
In post 9 of this thread linked here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...ml#post1984258 I stated that the more I increase my steer axle weight the better it handles and I haven't crossed the "line" yet.

Well, now I have crossed the "line". I have a set of 1000# and 1500# Blue Ox bars. My rig handles perfectly on 11 links with 1000# bars. I have total confidence in that setup after completing a 5000 mile trip on with no sway, no push-pull and no affects from gusty winds. The rig is stable and confidence inspiring at any speed and condition.

But in my quest to test different setups, I decided to give my 1500# bars a try. So I hitched up the Airstream with the 1500# bars, cranked them up to 11 links. My Titan XD had less than 1/2" of drop with this setup vs. about 1" with the 1000# bars. My steer axle looked "normal" with this setup versus slightly high with the 1000# bars. I started driving toward my CAT scale to weigh my rig . . .

I could immediately feel that the truck to Airstream connection was very rigid. The truck felt every little bump on the road. When I entered the Interstate highway, I was not at all confident with the setup. The winds were light and broad side. The Airstream felt twitchy and insecure, like I was riding on the "edge" of control. When vehicles passed me (even small cars) I got the uncomfortable push-pull. I could not bring myself to exceed 60 MPH with this "over-barred" setup. I therefore bailed on my plan to weigh the rig with this setting and got off the Interstate.

So what I have learned is that you can go over the "line" of more front axle weight. The effect of over-barring felt nearly identical to the feeling of under-barring (using less links on my 1000# bars). I felt the push-pull from passing traffic and wind gusts. This experience tells me it is difficult to know whether you are over-barred or under-barred. All I can say is to keep trying different settings until you "stumble" across the setting sweet spot where you gain complete confidence in your setup. I also feel that being "under-barred" is preferable to being over-barred.

These are my experiences that I share to help others in setting up their Blue Ox and to hopefully help Inthewoods tweak his setup.
Hi

If 11 links is correct for 1,000 lb bars, something like 8 links is probably right for 1,500 lb bars. Yes, that's just a guess. What did the CAT scale show (or did you abort before getting there...) ?

Bob
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