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Old 12-24-2015, 06:08 PM   #15
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
The best method with a bumper pull trailer is to load the trailer evenly as you go along, with 10% to 15% of trailer weight on the tongue.
^
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Bingo!

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Old 12-24-2015, 07:28 PM   #16
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The trailer is a tandem 7x16 cargo trailer. The trailer is driven empty for several hundred miles and then slowly loaded between many stops. End weight varies with each trip however my guess is we usually reach roughly 6-7000lbs trailer weight plus anywhere from 500-1500 in the bed. Those numbers are rough and the 1500 in the bed is probably a little high even on the worst scenario. I do my best to distribute the weight to keep the tongue between 10-15%. I also usually try to keep the heavier of the cargo in the bed of the truck and towards the front of the bed as much as possible. The truck handles the load perfectly, and I don't have much sway issues at all except a little when a Semi passes. Everything I have towed in the past didn't come anywhere near to the capacity of requiring a WD hitch.

Perhaps I am wrong in saying this but I feel like the truck handles good enough even with the truck bed and trailer fully loaded. However we are doing 400-1000 mile trips at least 1-2 times a month with this setup and I feel that if I can get some weight off of the rear axle and onto the front axle it would help.

Ron Gratz. I believe I understand what you are saying. The WD hitch is only designed to compensate for the tongue weight of the trailer on the rear axle. Air bags are needed for the weight in the bed. That makes sense and I will consider it. Would it be safe to assume that it would be okay to try the setup with the Anderson hitch and then add the airbags later after it is determined that they are needed?

Like I said, I try to keep everything as even as possible in the trailer so I can obtain the 10-15% tongue weight, however every trip is different so sometimes I can get to what I feel is pretty close, other times I know I'm a bit over. I am just looking for a little extra added beef.
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Old 12-24-2015, 08:41 PM   #17
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Kenworth or Peterbuilt tv will solve all your concerns. Too many variables to get an educated answer, however that has never hampered a responce!
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Old 12-25-2015, 03:54 AM   #18
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It seems to me that you should think through all of what is going on with your TV and trailer set up as to exactly what is happening to loading your axles and tires. It seems like you might be transferring bed weight to the trailer tires while trying to get more weight to the steering tires. I'd just make sure nothing gets overloaded or over stressed. Air bags might be a good idea and you should get some benefit from a WD hitch; a combo of both might work best. For the way you tow I'd look for a hitch with a lot of bearing area for the load bars to pivot on and keep it greased. Screw adjustment of the trailer ends of the load bars sure would be nice also but I've only seen that on the Hensley type hitches. One link on my Reese bars is a lot more tension. Hope you can find a good set up. Leland
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Old 12-25-2015, 07:17 PM   #19
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Any of the weight distribution hitches with the chain links on the weight spring bars that hook onto a saddle on the a-frame are easily adjustable.
Need more weight transferred to front wheels? Tighten/shorten/more chain links-
Need less weight transferred to the front wheels? Loosen/lengthen/less chain links-
Experiment one link at a time-
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:58 AM   #20
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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Wink

Aw shucks.....I shud'a used air bagz.

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Old 12-26-2015, 12:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolbox91 View Post
Ron Gratz. I believe I understand what you are saying. The WD hitch is only designed to compensate for the tongue weight of the trailer on the rear axle. Air bags are needed for the weight in the bed. That makes sense and I will consider it. Would it be safe to assume that it would be okay to try the setup with the Anderson hitch and then add the airbags later after it is determined that they are needed?
Yes, I think it would be safe to assume that it would be "okay" to try the Andersen hitch IF you are talking about using it only to restore load removed from the TV's front axle due to tongue weight.

If you load the trailer to 7000# and if the TW% creeps up to 15%, the TW will be about 1050#.
Given your long-bed truck and the 16' trailer, the TW would cause about 380# to be removed from the TV's front axle.

For your truck, Ford implies that the WDH should be adjusted to restore about 50% of the removed load.
This means the Andersen would have to transfer about 190# to the front axle.
This amount of load transfer might be achieved, but is at the upper limit of what has been reported by Andersen users.

If the Andersen was able to transfer 190# to the front, the corresponding amount of load removed from the rear axle would be about 340#, leaving a net rear-axle load addition of about 1100# due to TW.
If the bed load added, say, 1400# to the rear axle, the total net added load would be about 2500#.

In short, using the Andersen WDH might result in reducing the added rear axle load from about 2840# to about 2500# -- probably not enough to give a noticeable reduction in rear end squat.

IMO, using the Andersen would be "safer" than using nothing.
But, I don't see how it can help the squat problem.

Ron
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Old 12-26-2015, 01:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolbox91 View Post
I need help selecting a weight distribution hitch for a 7'X16' enclosed cargo trailer. Tow vehicle is a 2015 F-250 Crew Cab Long Bed.

The issue I am having is obviously I have too much tongue weight which causes the truck to squat and yadda yadda you know the rest. So I concluded I needed a weight distribution hitch after some internet research. The problem I have is this. When we leave for a trip the truck bed and trailer is completely empty. We pick stuff up along our route which increases our weight. By the time we return the truck bed is packed and so is the trailer. I need recommendations on a weight distribution hitch that is easily adjustable so that I can adjust it along our route as we increase our load. I am having issues finding out exactly how easily adjustable most of these units are. It seems that one of them require quite a bit of effort to adjust.

BTW Thanks you so much in advance for the help. I realize this isn't an Airstream trailer but I am having trouble finding my answer just doing google searches.
Cequent towing Products is the parent company of Reese Hitches. When I was at dealer supply show a few weeks ago, I spoke with the Reese Representative. They have now come out with a new slide in for the ball mount that provides numerous levels of adjustability. That would probably provide you with your greatest options.They also have varying levels of weight distributing hitches that provide you with weight ranges as high as 1700 pounds tongue weight. They also offer the dual cam sway control, which I find works well, no matter what size trailer I tow. If you go to their web page, you can pull up educational videos on a variety of information.
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Old 12-29-2015, 05:19 PM   #23
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Learn to use the CAT Scales at the truck stops.

A TW gauge (Sherline) is worth having (same as having a high quality tire pressure gauge).

Work with real numbers. FOrds recommendation of 50% FALR is low. And does not produce best handling and braking. Take time. Experiment with a range of adjustments. Keep a log.

At the end, there will be a short range of adjustment for a WD hitch. From loaded to unloaded.

There will also be the needed WD changes for the TV tire pressure, from empty to loaded.

These things all work together. A WD hitch with integrated antisway would be my choice.

It's in being disciplined and methodical to get things really right that pays off.

The Kenworth I'm driving has both the chassis and cab air ride height incorrectly set. Most mechanics just take a single measurement and all is good. Without going into detail of how to do it correctly, it's actually the difference between two sets of measurements. Wow, noticeable differences in ride, handling and braking. But not obvious it would be so until I insisted it be done right (had to go to KW dealer).

Be painstaking. It won't take long to get the feel for the thing. Get the scale numbers, empty and loaded. Axle by axle. Hold off on rear suspension AIDS till then.

And even a lowly cargo trailer needs shock absorbers. Better spring equalizers were it mine. And an axle alignment. Verify mechanical condition. Brakes and bearing preset.

Better than average tires if you're really using it that hard. If 15" tires, then something like Yokohama RY215 or Continental Vancos, etcetera.

Even a little trailer can get one in trouble. Saw it yesterday in Oklahoma on icy IH40 and a sudden gust. Driver was going too fast, but that's never an adequate explanation.
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