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Old 04-29-2012, 10:27 PM   #1
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just picked up used equalizer 600 4 way

The stainless tank cover is in way only spot I found for mounting hardware puts it at 26 1/2 inches center ball to bracket. Manual says 27 min perfect being 32inches. I could cut stainless tank or run without.
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:29 PM   #2
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The stainless tank cover is in way only spot I found for mounting hardware puts it at 26 1/2 inches center ball to bracket. Manual says 27 min perfect being 32inches. I could cut stainless tank or run without.
Hi, maybe you could post a picture so we can see what your set-up looks like. My hitch was originally set at 29"s and I moved it back to 32"s. This picture was before I moved it back to 32"s.
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:16 PM   #3
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here are some photos

Looks like I need to drop front down grade 8 bolts appear larger than 3/4 need to do some shopping. Measurement of frame in back 13inch and change while front is 18 and change. I did move brackets back 29inches and set stainless cover on top, tilts forward. Is there a way to move rod for tank cover to spin it longer. Bottom bolt came loose but top is on there. Would rather not cut cover if I can get away with it. First 2 pictures are at 26 1/2 front cover with bracket. Last is 29 part bracket under cover.
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Old 04-30-2012, 04:04 PM   #4
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Tilt the ball down toward the trailer, this is better and will lower the front of the trailer. Jim
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:10 PM   #5
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Tilt the ball down toward the trailer, this is better and will lower the front of the trailer. Jim
Hi, looking at your pictures, I can see that the ball mount is tilted pretty good. But it is either a bad camera angle, your truck is down hill, or your truck's receiver is bent upward. I see what you mean by the tank cover since your's is different than mine. Set up your hitch as best as you can with the cover off, and maybe put a spacer on top of your frame, the same thickness as the hitch bolt. This would allow your tank cover to at least fit level. I don't think that I would modify the tank cover by drilling or cutting into it.
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:32 PM   #6
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Set the Equal-I-Zer support brackets back the full 32". The Equal-I-Zer has the least flexible wd bars on the market and the Airstream 16' has a light frame. The longer bar setback will give the bars the most opportunity for flex, which won't be much.

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Old 05-01-2012, 12:39 AM   #7
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Looks like I need to drop front down grade 8 bolts appear larger than 3/4 need to do some shopping. Measurement of frame in back 13inch and change while front is 18 and change. I did move brackets back 29inches and set stainless cover on top, tilts forward. Is there a way to move rod for tank cover to spin it longer. Bottom bolt came loose but top is on there. Would rather not cut cover if I can get away with it. First 2 pictures are at 26 1/2 front cover with bracket. Last is 29 part bracket under cover.
It appears that as Robert mentioned your receiver is not level on the truck and you probably do not need the spring bars on a 16' Bambi except to damper street dips.. You can tear the tongue off the Airstream in time if you apply too much force from the truck to trailer.( lower the back arms) You are 5" too high at the ball if you are on level ground, and you have to be on level ground to set up the hitch. You may need to flip the ball mount bracket over by unbolting the head so you can lower it the needed distance. If you slack off the bar tension you will get closer to the 13" at the ball.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:04 AM   #8
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The purpose of the "spring" or weight distribution bars is to redistribute the weight of the trailer tongue to the truck and trailer axles, and on this style hitch, provide sway resistance with friction of the bars moving at the head and at the bar brackets mounted on the trailer frame. The weight distribution is important because it puts weight back on the truck steering axle that is lost when the trailer is dropped on the hitch ball.

If the head is tilted down towards the rear (as it should be), additional sway resistance is provided as the trailer moves sideways, however more stress is also put on the the trailer frame, especially in dips on the road such as gas station entrances. Take these slowly.

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Old 05-01-2012, 09:33 AM   #9
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Blue tape center is 32inches to center ball

I can move it back little bit but frame cross member is in this location as well. I made no adjustments to used hitch just slapped it on. 6 washers on adjustment part. If I remove 2 big grade 8s can I take one washer out. So your thought is to drop one hole for receiver get ball lined up at 13inches or so either flipping it or dropping.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:30 PM   #10
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Think I have it right now

I bought 1 1/8 wrench to loosen hardware and removed 2 washers. Now set with 4 washers. Loaded up with bars rear frame is 15inches, front 14 3/4. I am gaining 1/2 inch with bars no bars 32, no hitch resting height 33 1/2 rear right tire. Also I think my final setting is one hole lower on shank.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:41 PM   #11
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You can download the manuel from Equalizer, if you haven't already. Excellent info in setting it up. Also, if you have any questions, and I did on mine, call the company. The folks at the help desk were very friendly and answered all my questions on set up.
Make sure you use some grease on the pivots on the head but not on the brackets where the sway bars rest. Lot's of squeaking and creaking if you don't.
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:14 AM   #12
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Hey robert from your pics it looks like yours is to high on shank

measure bottom portion of frame in couple places in front and then check rear. I know with regular mounts you want trailer as level as possible. I would try next bottom hole then adjust your bars. Mine is currently under WD but think when I add weight in truck should be close. It is better than inexpensive hitch though my calcs are closer, this small trailer should not need much. I do not see any other holes on your adj shank did you cut it. The bottom portion of my ball looks like it lines up with truck 2 inch receiver yours way over top.
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:25 AM   #13
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Quote:
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measure bottom portion of frame in couple places in front and then check rear. I know with regular mounts you want trailer as level as possible. I would try next bottom hole then adjust your bars. Mine is currently under WD but think when I add weight in truck should be close. It is better than inexpensive hitch though my calcs are closer, this small trailer should not need much. I do not see any other holes on your adj shank did you cut it. The bottom portion of my ball looks like it lines up with truck 2 inch receiver yours way over top.
Hi, after about six years of use, my trailer did settle some, and I did lower it one hole to level out my trailer. [this was also done after this picture was taken]
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:47 AM   #14
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Starcraft
I recommend the bracket jackets that are offered by equalizer. They will take most of the noise out of the bars sliding on the "L" brkt. I used the jackets on my 1000# setup and was very happy with the performance on my 3500 mi. trip to FL. I was so impressed with the performance overall that I got a used 600# Equalizer hitch to use on my 25' Excella.
Dan
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