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Old 08-02-2016, 08:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane View Post
It's normal. Don't overthink it.

I hate the wheelbarrow analogy, but it works in this case. If you lift a wheelbarrow with one handle, you need to lift the total weight. As soon as you lift the other handle, you reduce the weight on the first bar and divide the load between the two handles.
Your point being??????
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:05 PM   #16
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Point is that you are lifting the total transferred weight when you hook up the first bar. Then when you hook up the second bar, you are lifting half the transferred weight, while reducing the load on the first bar.

So it appears that the weight on the first bar is double the weight on the second bar.

I'm not discounting the fact that there is also a difference in perceived pull up force when the trailer is not level or the trailer and tow vehicle are not aligned.

I am just claiming that there is also a condition, perfectly aligned and level, where the first bar lifted requires more pull up force than the second bar.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:12 PM   #17
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Do you have any pictures of your setup? I'm having a hard time figuring out why you're having such a hard time...... with our 34' Avion, after I latch the coupler on the ball, I can raise the tongue of the trailer high enough to latch chains by hand. My setup leaves two loose links on the chains.

As at least one other has mentioned, the only time I have to use a bar to latch the chains is when I'm on a weird angle... not level
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulnGina View Post
Do you have any pictures of your setup? I'm having a hard time figuring out why you're having such a hard time...... with our 34' Avion, after I latch the coupler on the ball, I can raise the tongue of the trailer high enough to latch chains by hand. My setup leaves two loose links on the chains.

As at least one other has mentioned, the only time I have to use a bar to latch the chains is when I'm on a weird angle... not level
I have 4 links hanging, 5 links under stress per side. I raise the jack/truck enough to get the cheater bar hooked up. Do not want to raise jack/truck much higher and stress out the jack...
The drivers side is always much harder, regardless of which side I hook up first. This also occurs when TV and AS are both on level ground.
I just ordered the 1200lb bars to see if this changes anything, as my tongue weight hovers around 1050lbs. Have to see how this works out because I popped a half dozen interior rivets on my last trip after installing new Michelins & centramatics..???

Thanks for all the responses! I will report back with feedback from the 1200lb bar experiment.
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:03 PM   #19
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Maybe the pix is an optical 'delusion', BUT it looks to me that neither the TV nor A/S is level. Looks like either the ball height is wrong or not enough tension on the spring bars. We tow our A/S with an Armada and 1,000# spring bars with a Reese Strait Line hitch with Dual Cams and just love the control we get with it. Initial setup can be hellacious, but once you get the ball height/spring bar squared away, this is a good hitch. I wouldn't be too concerned about which bar is harder to lift. My experience is even if the TV is squared with the A/S, one always is a bit harder. I always use the jack to take pressure off the bars for easier lifting.
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Old 08-03-2016, 06:15 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
I have a Reese Dual Cam hitch, now sitting on a shelf in the garage; 'cause I'de had enough!
Like Malinoi38, I found that doing up the snap-up on the drivers side was ok, but the passenger side really needed a hefty amount of force to get it up.
Then when undoing the chains, (I usually start at the driver's side), I would raise the nose up as high as the jack would allow, and the driver's side would undo no problem. However..........
The passenger side needed a lot of muscle to lower the pipe, and it would push very hard against the still taut chain. No way to remove it, except;
I purchased a small scissor jack to take the tension off the chain, so that I could remove the bar and chain from the snap-up. (I got this tip from a fellow RVer who had the same problem.)

Then while driving down the highway, the Ford F-150 would wiggle back and forth like a snake caught in a light socket. I theorize that the 'ball' was a little too small for the 'cup' on the bars, on the cam assy. and had a little 'play' before the cup would work.

I'm using the Ford to pull a 30' 'Cloud', so I took it into CanAm in London, and they changed the set up to the original Husky 'Eze-Lift' with friction bars.
It groans when I turn, but so what!
It works.
Anyone wanna buy a slightly used Reese hitch?
I might have a potential interest in your Reese dual cam. What are the components and price you are looking for?
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:20 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulnGina View Post
Do you have any pictures of your setup? I'm having a hard time figuring out why you're having such a hard time...... with our 34' Avion, after I latch the coupler on the ball, I can raise the tongue of the trailer high enough to latch chains by hand. My setup leaves two loose links on the chains.

As at least one other has mentioned, the only time I have to use a bar to latch the chains is when I'm on a weird angle... not level
No photos for two reasons:
1) The Reese hitch is removed from the vehicle and sits unused on a shelf.
2) I have no idea how to include a photo in these messages.
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigleith View Post
I might have a potential interest in your Reese dual cam. What are the components and price you are looking for?
This Reese hitch cost me $1000 last Summer, and has been used three times only.
Set is complete; two 1000# bars, both cams, both 'snap-up' brackets, and a complete head assy. with 2-5/8" ball, and 2" shank. (rather greasy, because I lubricate my shanks, with heavy grease, and use two .060 shims to prevent rattle.) Head to shank has an .040 shim installed to allow bolts to be properly tight. (I'm a retired Aircraft Engineer.)
You can have the whole shebang for $700.
I live in Blenheim.
Thanks for the interest.
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