Is there a hitch that keeps trucks from "sucking" a trailer?

[SteveSueMac]

As a ProPride user - I feel the push/bow of an 18-wheeler. It seems gentle to me - nothing that feels like being sucked in to the semi or swaying - but there is a gentle push of the entire rig. Never measured but it feels like it might move an inch over - no biggie.

[Dan and Liz]

Originally Posted by Boxite

I tow with an ordinary naked ball with friction-anti-sway and have virtually no effect from passing 18 wheelers. (Pulling with a 1500 Ram that has coil springs all-around.)

Same results with our F150 and Curt hitch; never notice any induced instability from passing trucks or from winds. Just lucky with hitch setup?

[wildhorses]

Originally Posted by bwoodtx

Whenever I see a semi coming, I always move a bit farther to the right.

Seems to help.

2009 2500HD 4WD crew cab 6.5 foot bed 6.0ltr. I tow at 65mph

Me too, no equalizer hitch at all. Just towed from Finger, NC to Oshkosh, WI and had no issues using this method.

2009 Chevy Express 3500 towing 31ft Sovereign.

[Asherstanton]

For Projet2907
I used an Anderson hitch and found it to be a pain in the a--.
Sorry to be negative for you Anderson fans. It worked when it worked but when you hooked up in a tight spot it could be all off.

[Adiredneck]

You've asked an interesting (and dangerous) question - nothing gets tails puffed up faster than debating hitches, tow vehicles or tires! ;-)

That being said, I am intrigued by your situation. The "classic truck suck" was described perfectly by Al & Missy. Those are the dynamics that we fight as the driver. But, you TT/TV's response to that dynamic can be caused by several things:

1.) "Tail wags the dog" syndrome - you have more trailer than tow vehicle. But since your 2500 should be up to the task of hauling what you have listed in your profile without difficulty, I think we can eliminate that.

2.) Suspension. The stiffer the better, IMHO. I also prefer leaf to coil springs on the TV - less bouncy.

3.) Tire inflation. I run my TV at the rated 80 psi; and, since I have 16" Michelin XPS Rib LT tires on my AS, I run them at 75 psi.

4.) Hitch. My first year I ran just and E-quil-i-zer behind my Ram 2500. Good handling, very little "truck suck", but the Ram rode like a deuce-and-a-half, and after a bad stretch of interstate I would find drawers open and pillows on the floor in the AS. Two years ago I upgraded to a 3500 Ram (which, ironically, rides *much* smoother than the 2500!); but I also added an AirSafe to my E-quil-i-zer, which smoothed out the ride for both TT/TV. It also puts my ball 21" behind my receiver. No "truck suck" whatsoever.

TV Wheel Base. My 3500 is a club cab with 8' box, which gives it a 169" wheelbase. I don't know the physics involved, but it is less affected than the standard cab 2500 that preceded it.

I'd suggest looking at your experience "holistically" (a terribly overused word). Your hitch might be part of the problem, but check the other factors - including speed. My TV/TT combo runs around 17,000 lbs combined, and the truck literally does npt seem to notice the Airstream behind it, trucks or no trucks. I'm interested to hear how you resolve your problem - best of luck!

[USAtraveler]

Originally Posted by Bill M.

10 years with a Reese St Line. Pretty happy. But when overtaken by a truck it pulls the rig to it. No sway or wiggle, just the sideways pull. And it seems that it has gotten worse or I am more sensitive to it or last week it was worse because of the winds. Do all hitches allow this to happen? What about the VPP hitches? Truck is a 2500 with good tires. Even a large SUV at speed causes some "pull". I have close to full return weight on the front axle when hitched. Will less pressure on the wt bars make the pull rose or better?

Interesting to see ProPride users come out and admit (well, some of them anyway) their VPP hitches don't actually eliminate the "suck" and "pull" problem you are experiencing. As a group they tend to be very outspoken (and defensive?) about their choice of WD hitches. Spending a lot of money, though, does not buy you anything more than less expensive hitches provide...despite the claims. ALL WD hitches perform about the same because they ignore the basic fact that a trailer lacks ability on its own to resist sway and maintain directional control. Sway control is only provided through these mechanical add-on devices, and NONE of them are going to make you slow down (which is the biggest factor in sway control).

Fortunately, many modern tow vehicles have built-in electronic sway control from the factory. Your 2500 may or may not have it. ESC momentarily applies the brakes on individual wheels of the TV to correct for any sway detected as "suck" and "pull". For the best sway control, electronic systems from companies such as Tuson can be attached to the trailer itself and provide the same level of individual brake and sway control on the trailer as the ESC system on the TV provides. To correct your problem, you may want to look into one of these.

[Dingo Girl]

Originally Posted by Boxite

I tow with an ordinary naked ball with friction-anti-sway and have virtually no effect from passing 18 wheelers. (Pulling with a 1500 Ram that has coil springs all-around.)

This is how I will set my 67 Caravel up to start. If there are towing issues then I will add from there.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by USAtraveler

Interesting to see ProPride users come out and admit (well, some of them anyway) their VPP hitches don't actually eliminate the "suck" and "pull" problem you are experiencing. As a group they tend to be very outspoken (and defensive?) about their choice of WD hitches. Spending a lot of money, though, does not buy you anything more than less expensive hitches provide...despite the claims. ALL WD hitches perform about the same because they ignore the basic fact that a trailer lacks ability on its own to resist sway and maintain directional control. Sway control is only provided through these mechanical add-on devices, and NONE of them are going to make you slow down (which is the biggest factor in sway control).

Fortunately, many modern tow vehicles have built-in electronic sway control from the factory. Your 2500 may or may not have it. ESC momentarily applies the brakes on individual wheels of the TV to correct for any sway detected as "suck" and "pull". For the best sway control, electronic systems from companies such as Tuson can be attached to the trailer itself and provide the same level of individual brake and sway control on the trailer as the ESC system on the TV provides. To correct your problem, you may want to look into one of these.

There's a lot to debate here...

The bow wave isn't sway - it's a gentle push which could lead to a sway event if you react incorrectly or your rig isn't set up properly.

People generally tend to defend their purchases. No one wants to feel they made a mistake. That's not restricted to a single brand. You only reinforce it when you call them out as a group for being defensive.

VPP pitches do operate differently. Plenty of information available about that. Doesn't make them better or worse - but they are different.

Electronic sway control sounds promising. I would be surprised if it eliminates the bow phenomenon any more than mechanical hitches do but if the driver overreacts it should help.

[Hopeful1]

Originally Posted by Dan and Liz

Same results with our F150 and Curt hitch; never notice any induced instability from passing trucks or from winds. Just lucky with hitch setup?

We bought a Curt and have had no problems with our F250 and 25' Safari. And if you really want to know if you will have problems being passed by semi's, test your skills on I81 between Roanoke and Wythville in VA. They will oblige you. We do tend to stay a little under the speed limit.

[RxGuy]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Its very true that you can get some slight push/pull even with a Hensley design hitch. Its probably exactly what was described as tire flex effects. No matter what the hitch, you still need brakes properly adjusted, trailer properly loaded, and drive at reasonable speeds. Hitch technology does NOT compensate fro stupidity, IMHO.

The big thing I saw with trucks passing and pushing the rig was that it is minimal, and you really don't need to correct much--sway never starts from a close pass by a big rig...

I agree, there is a little push/pull, but no where near the bow wave effect you can see with a non-Hensley style hitch.

When my wife and I started looking to purchase our trailer, I never really gave any thought about the hitch other than...some sort of anti-sway and a brand name WD hitch of some kind would come with the trailer. The trailer we bought had the Pro Pride hitch. I had knowledge of Blue Ox, Reese, etc. Not ever having read about one, let alone seen one, it was like...what the heck is this thing. LOL

In hind sight I'm glad it did. (Despite the learning curve of hitching and unhitching). In all honesty I would have bought some other brand if it hadn't been included with the trailer.

On our first big trip this year traveling from Moab to Vernal, there were 30-40 mph winds with gusts to 60, not the best conditions to tow anything, but with the aerodynamics of the AS and the PP hitch we were able to make the drive safely. Slow and steady. We never had any "sway issues" at all.

[rustyoldman]

I have had was lift, sway pro blue ox and Equalizer.....years of towing.....Equalizer would be my choice hands down....of course any hitch needs to be dialed-in for your tv and trailer.....I don't believe you need to spend the money some hitches (H) cost.
Bill

[Milo1952]

I have an equalizer and my setup is rock solid. No movement of any kind.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by USAtraveler

Interesting to see ProPride users come out and admit (well, some of them anyway) their VPP hitches don't actually eliminate the "suck" and "pull" problem you are experiencing. As a group they tend to be very outspoken (and defensive?) about their choice of WD hitches. Spending a lot of money, though, does not buy you anything more than less expensive hitches provide...despite the claims. ALL WD hitches perform about the same because they ignore the basic fact that a trailer lacks ability on its own to resist sway and maintain directional control. Sway control is only provided through these mechanical add-on devices, and NONE of them are going to make you slow down (which is the biggest factor in sway control).

Fortunately, many modern tow vehicles have built-in electronic sway control from the factory. Your 2500 may or may not have it. ESC momentarily applies the brakes on individual wheels of the TV to correct for any sway detected as "suck" and "pull". For the best sway control, electronic systems from companies such as Tuson can be attached to the trailer itself and provide the same level of individual brake and sway control on the trailer as the ESC system on the TV provides. To correct your problem, you may want to look into one of these.

I'm guessing you haven't used a VPP hitch. Unless the TV rear wheels initiate a change in direction, the trailer can't move from the TV path.

What is "felt" is the movement of the truck body against the suspension as the bow wave of the passing big truck comes up.

I pull a 35' TT. The combined rig is 63' (longer than my tractor-trailer). Rack & pinion steering on an independent front suspension. One tons don't have steering this good the majority of models out there, meaning I can feel what's happening. Beam front axle with sector gear steering, won't.

The TT will start to angle over or it won't. But the truck bow wave isn't detectable at the steering until it hits the sail area of my truck (full length 8' bed topper). The TT doesn't change alignment with the TV. All other hitch types will allow (resist) change of alignment. This is an enormous difference.

I modified the suspension to counter this body roll. Airing up the tires past load requirements is NOT how to do it.

With proximity, though, comes problems. Doesn't matter if I'm in my sidewind-good-aero 79,000-lb tanker or any other vehicle configuration. Some vehicles (straight trucks worst) have sharply defined strong bow waves. Will push one over to right, meaning must correct for (higher speeds worsen this; yours and theirs). Proximity matters.

I tend to manage overtaking traffic by allowing my rig to come out to the center stripe when I see that overtaking traffic is doing a poor job. And hang there a little. You'll notice that most big truck drivers don't have good awareness of the starboard side space requirement. They don't respect the center stripe so much as work from a predetermined "distance" requirements. My action moves them over to the left of their lane. (If they think, " stoopid RV'er", I've been successful: they've noticed and are correcting). As they near my trailer stern I move back over to a little right of center of mine. (And may slow if their passing speed is not at least 5-mph above mine: cancel cruise till I've dropped off 7-8/mph). Same as what I do in the big truck. This maximizes distance. And bow wave effect. I want them around me in a short time, and with better distance vehicle-to-vehicle.

A VPP makes this simple. Any other configuration has the trailer lagging behind the trucks movements in time/distance. Snaking, even if slight. In which case I have to use the trailer brake to maintain alignment. And more throttle work. Gets to be a pain. Especially on a day with gusting crosswinds. Etc. I can see why others give up and give the jerks use of more than one lane. It's a ROW violation, but almost never ticketed. (Moho drivers and city box truck drivers are the worst.)

With a VPP hitch it's easy to accommodate the operators defensive tactics. Move away from potholes or gators. Get thru tight construction zones. And, deal with natural winds. Etc.

30-day money back guarantee. Start practicing now what your rig can do. Then try the better hitch.

Agreed on electronic anti-sway. Belt & suspenders.

(It should go without saying that best mirrors -- their adjustment -- and driving posture go hand in hand with this. So, start here).

.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by Milo1952

I have an equalizer and my setup is rock solid. No movement of any kind.

Can follow you with video camera and disprove that in under a mile down a perfect road on a calm day. Continuing misalignment of both vehicles. You just don't see or feel it, is all.

[KK4YZ]

Years ago we used to pull a 23' box trailer with a short wheel base SUV and Reese hitch with friction sway control. We felt the push from passing semi's big-time. Fast forward to today, we have a Tundra Crewmax pulling an AS 23D and an Equalizer hitch. I was amazed that I can't hardly feel any kind of push at all from passing truck, with the exception of the presence of a strong crosswind. And then it's still not bad at all.

I didn't know whether the improvement was due to the AS, the truck or both.

Reading these varied results with different TVs and hitch systems, I'm thinking that you may want to look carefully at the adjustment of your hitch system.

[Bill M.]

Thank for all the replies. Going to check the setup and check the adjustments. I have a short bed truck and a fairly long drawbar so some overhang. Driving around for a week with the trailer parked has me thinking that maybe the truck steering is partly to blame. A little sloppy compared to the Ford I drive every day. Truck is 10 years old so I will get the steering looked at to see if it can be helped. And I am not used to these upper Midwest winds.

I have seen some of you mention polyurethane bushings and steering stabilizers. Is there anything aftermarket that will help a 10 year old Dodge 2500?

[Foiled Again]

Well here is a bit of gasoline to add to the fire. I just got rid of my Hensley and went to a Blue Ox.

The newer tow vehicles with anti-sway technology MAY make the Propride & Hensley technology less necessary, but for me the deal breakers were
1. Getting aligned to hitch... soft soil and the angles all change
2. Complexity - mine needed maintenance and I don't have the tools or brute strength to remove, disassemble and correctly rebuild it.
3. Tongue weight
4. Extension cord for umbilical got chewed up twice while underway in spite of several attempts to suspend it well above the hitch. (be very aware of having perfect amount of slack to allow for turns but not enough for the connectors on the extension to get caught by the hitch... a whole new longer umbilical is probably best)

I've only towed 400 miles on the new hitch, but so far it is rock solid. I DID decide to use a long breaker bar and 1 inch socket to tension the bars rather than the tool provided with the hitch... cause I have tiny girl hands and can get better leverage and control. Using a drill with the Hensley was dead easy and I was a bit afraid that the breaker bar could get away from me but I have a long reach tongue jack so it's easy to unload the bars before tackling the chains.

Oh... If this picture attaches it has NOTHING to do with the thread. Just a test.
Paula

[KK4YZ]

Ouch. I sure hate to see stuff like that. What happened?

[Foiled Again]

Old age and probably a tree. Been sitting abandoned on VA eastern shore for years.

[Ajlawcz]

We had an f250 with Ed bars and crank anti sway, I got dragged all over with wind and or semis. Moved to F350 dually with Equaluzer and don't feel a thing. I believe it's as an above poster said, either Hensley/ Propride with smaller vehicle or larger vehicle will help the issue.