interesting comments from U-Haul

[out of sight]

Originally Posted by SkeetShooter

Boy, you all are really getting into it. I started reading this thread in the hope of getting some much needed advise on hitches, sway bars and towing. I am purchasing a 1988 34 ft Excella 1000 in Melbourne FL and plan to tow it 250 miles back to Naples FL this Thursday morning. We will be using a F 350 Diesel Truck for the job. This will be my first Airstream. The couple I'm buying the trailer from told me that they have sway bars that will go with the trailer purchase. This AS has 6 new tires and repacked wheel bearings. It is my understanding that the couple have never towed this AS anywhere before. They have been in it for 11 years I believe. Could you all point me in the right direction to a link that may help us out? This link has been interesting but as a extreme newbie, what I'm getting is that you had better have your weight distribution correct, and WD/Sway bars just help if you started with correct weight distribution to begin with. I don't even know how to have the correct WD! My AS will be dry and empty, except with what it comes with. Sorry for my ignorance. I just want to get us and my new beauty home safely!

You have the right truck for the job. You can tow any size Airstream with it. You don't need a special hitch but as long as you're getting it with the trailer then use it. Once you gain confidence in the rig you can lose the hitch.

[xrvr]

Same old arguements, same old people with a few new contestants. Good entertainment!!

[out of sight]

Originally Posted by xrvr

Same old arguements, same old people with a few new contestants. Good entertainment!!

BTW, Land Yacht Harbor of Melbourne has the most awesome collection of Airstreams on the planet.

[Profxd]

Originally Posted by SkeetShooter

Boy, you all are really getting into it. I started reading this thread in the hope of getting some much needed advise on hitches, sway bars and towing. I am purchasing a 1988 34 ft Excella 1000 in Melbourne FL and plan to tow it 250 miles back to Naples FL this Thursday morning. We will be using a F 350 Diesel Truck for the job. This will be my first Airstream. The couple I'm buying the trailer from told me that they have sway bars that will go with the trailer purchase. This AS has 6 new tires and repacked wheel bearings. It is my understanding that the couple have never towed this AS anywhere before. They have been in it for 11 years I believe. Could you all point me in the right direction to a link that may help us out? This link has been interesting but as a extreme newbie, what I'm getting is that you had better have your weight distribution correct, and WD/Sway bars just help if you started with correct weight distribution to begin with. I don't even know how to have the correct WD! My AS will be dry and empty, except with what it comes with. Sorry for my ignorance. I just want to get us and my new beauty home safely!

If you don’t know how to setup the WDH, I would tow it home without it. But first off keep your speed down since instability is directly related to speed. Second make sure the trailer is level or at least tongue down slightly not up.

[SkeetShooter]

Thank you all. Keep the information coming. I am soaking it up like a sponge. Yes, LYH has many nice AS's. I have seen 3 in there so far as well as a handful around the state. Here is a link to my new girl. I hope you all approve. Bob https://spacecoast.craigslist.org/rv...891791034.html

[SkeetShooter]

Thank you and keep it coming. I can use informed advice. You are correct on Land Yacht Harbor in Melbourne FL. It was really cool seeing row after row of those silver beauties!
I looked at 3 of them in the park and several others around the state.


So, I shouldn't use the sway bars if I don't know to adjust them correctly. I read somewhere that when the truck is on level ground, the top of the hitch ball should be 19 inches from the ground. The coach should be level or nose down, not nose up at all. Go slow. How slow? I imagine if I feel any sway or porpoising, slow the heck down! Any thing else?


BTW here is a link to my new beauty. I hope you all approve. https://spacecoast.craigslist.org/rv...891791034.html


Any other advice or links that may help, send them my way. I leave 6 AM Thursday morning to pick her up.


Thank you all,


Bob

[NavyCorpsman]

I love WD discussions.
I also love and abide by the laws of Physics.
I have NEVER had issues with oscillation, sway or loss of stability .
The emphasis should be that of a properly loaded trailer and balanced with a TV that is not anywhere near the Do Not Exceed rating.
I prefer slower speeds. I avoid the Interstates. I don't feel compelled to use WD. WD has its uses, but for me it's useless. Tire irons at 20 paces, anyone? Har Har Har. It's all in the math......

[jcl]

Originally Posted by out of sight

You probably don't realize it but you are encouraging unsafe trailering by telling people that all they have to do is get themselves a good hitch and they'll be good. And you don't even know how to set up the hitch for proper weight distribution.

It's a good thing I never said what you are claiming I did.

I am more concerned about those who buy a larger and heavier truck, and think that they don't need to pay attention to set up solely by virtue of having a heavier truck. And that is something that I have posted already, so you will recognize it.

[Profxd]

Originally Posted by NavyCorpsman

I love WD discussions.
I also love and abide by the laws of Physics.
I have NEVER had issues with oscillation, sway or loss of stability .
The emphasis should be that of a properly loaded trailer and balanced with a TV that is not anywhere near the Do Not Exceed rating.
I prefer slower speeds. I avoid the Interstates. I don't feel compelled to use WD. WD has its uses, but for me it's useless. Tire irons at 20 paces, anyone? Har Har Har. It's all in the math......

You are correct that both TV and trailer characteristics must be considered to create stability. WD used correctly requires minimal tension/torque to stay within the TV’s maximum FALR limits.

[out of sight]

Originally Posted by jcl

It's a good thing I never said what you are claiming I did.

I am more concerned about those who buy a larger and heavier truck, and think that they don't need to pay attention to set up solely by virtue of having a heavier truck. And that is something that I have posted already, so you will recognize it.

You have consistently argued that every vehicle needs a weight distribution hitch and that whatever load was on the front axle should be put back there after putting load on the hitch. That is wrong thinking.

[silverhio]

Size of tow vehicle has nothing to do with trailer sway.
But a bigger vehicle will be less likely to be thrown around by a very small trailer swaying, until the trailer flips that is…
Small trailers are not immune to sway.

WD hitches distribute weight to front wheels of TV and to rear wheels of trailer more evenly than without.

WD hitches do have some effect to reduce sway. Many WD hitches have anti-sway devices available.

Uhaul would have a massive more difficult time renting trailers to random people if they had to also attach WD hitches and explain them.
WD hitches work on receiver hitches only, most cars and trucks do not have receivers.
UH would take on massive liability and many lawsuits if they had WD hitches.
UH rentals would be much more expensive with Wd hitches.
Most cars would not be capable of interfacing with a WD hitch.
Most cars would be too low for a WD hitch.

If you look at UH tongues you see they are really, really long. Long enough to jacknife and not have the trailer box touch the TV. They use one square tube for the small to med size trailer tongues, for this reason. WD requires a triangle shape tongue. -another reason UH does not use WD.

I think UH has an official explanation which they went and found an engineer to agree with, probably on their payroll, to explain the lack of the safety upgrade a WD hitch provides.

WD hitches are not necessary for towing.
They are an upgrade and for serious/regular travelers are also peace of mind. They work. They save wear and tear on both TV and trailer….

I cant imagine not using one on a huge trailer.

[Coop]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

By actual experiments on the exact same route, same trailer and truck loading, and similar wind conditions the difference between a Husky brand WD hitch and a ProPride setup was as follows:

Husky: trailer started sway event at 55 MPH and required slowing to 45 MPH on the downhill run to keep it from occurring.

ProPride: No sway whatsoever at trailer speed limit 55 MPH downhill all segments of the run. In addition, a run across Texas with the ProPride showed absolutely no indication of sway at speeds up to 80 MPH, whilst being passed by big rigs, and in heavy crosswinds.

I don’t need someone telling me towing on the ball is safer, but thanks for the free opinion. It’s worth what we paid for it.

My engineering experience says pivot point projection works. Any sway control system will help under the right circumstances, but others try to resist sway, not mechanically flat out stop it.

In my experience over a rather long career at Boeing and other engineering outfits, I’ve found that Ignorance can be cured if the individual is willing to do some research and learning. Stupidity is apparently a permanent condition. Also, ignorance suitably prolonged is indistinguishable from stupidity.

I really enjoyed your last paragraph, but 80 mph? In heavy crosswinds?

[out of sight]

Originally Posted by Coop

I really enjoyed your last paragraph, but 80 mph? In heavy crosswinds?

The highest speed limit in the US is in Texas at 85 MPH. Trailers are limited to 80 mph. It's legal.

[Coop]

Not questioning the legality of it, just the prudence of it. Nuff said.

[Coop]

Besides, I don’t think Airstream endorses that speed for it’s units, does it?

[PKI]

Originally Posted by SkeetShooter

Could you all point me in the right direction to a link that may help us out?

blue box at upper right - enter term and search for threads on your issue.

Try "towing first time" - "towing on the ball" - "Equalizer hitch" - "F350 towing" - "are long trailers easier to tow" and "towing schools".

Depending on your towing experience and confidence, you might find yourself an expert to help with the trip home.

Note - on loading - if the coach is empty it's going to have close to factory specification weight and tongue weight. Consequently, this thread is of no use to you.

Note - on WDH - if you don't know, you have two choices 1) get professional help or 2) drive 55 and tow on the ball until you get professional help or do know through investigation, learning in slow steps, and tuning/testing your rig til it rides smooth and your grip on the wheel has no white showing.

Note - on driving - what ever you know or think you know, practice and perform focused active and attentive driving style. Also practice sharing the driving functions - co-driver navigates and the driver drives - no one sleeps or day dreams. Stop early and relax for the next day's travel.

Good luck with you new coach. . Pat

Edit - You did not mention brake condition - check brake operation at slow speed - 5-10mph - if they do not function, do not tow. The battery bank may be dead after 11 years - if no battery, no break away brake function. Verify brake and turn signals operate correctly before towing.

[out of sight]

Originally Posted by Coop

Besides, I don’t think Airstream endorses that speed for it’s units, does it?

Airstream makes the claim that their trailers are designed to safely tow at any highway speed. That would be 80 MPH as I see it. I have test run my 28 at 85 MPH towing on the ball and I can confirm their safety claim.

The limiting factor seems to be the tire speed rating. 87 MPH for the GoodYear Endurance.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by Coop

I really enjoyed your last paragraph, but 80 mph? In heavy crosswinds?

For a few minutes, until I looked down at the speedometer and pulled my foot off the gas pedal. I don’t normally speed but it was running too smoothly for the normal ‘seat of the pants’ speed feedback.

I backed down to about 60-65 which was average traffic speed. No twitching at all from cross winds or passing heavy truck traffic. The big rigs must have been running 70-80 MPH that day.

Very stable rig when properly set up with a ProPride system. Even if I eventually go to a bigger truck the ProPride system will still be used. Mechanical sway prevention is worth the effort. Another thing is that nothing shakes loose in the Airstream when towing. It’s evidence that it’s running smoothly.

In reference to the last paragraph, I’ve been leading and training people for decades. Give me someone willing to learn, and I can train them to do most anything.

One that won’t listen, I don’t waste my time on. They get to find some other place to be, and rather quickly. I’m admittedly less patient nowadays, but have never been known to suffer fools gladly...at least not for very long!🤪

[jcl]

Originally Posted by out of sight

You have consistently argued that every vehicle needs a weight distribution hitch and that whatever load was on the front axle should be put back there after putting load on the hitch. That is wrong thinking.

I have never said what you are claiming I said.

In fact, for your RAM 2500, I pointed out to you that your owner's manual calls for 50% FALR, which isn't the same as "whatever load was on the front axle." That was only after I realized that you had unfortunately misread your owner's manual, (I checked because in the same thread, you made claims that indicated you misread your Mercedes owner's manual as well). You thought the above 50% FALR was for a different model truck, and skipped right over the section on 2500 and 3500 models. (the lighter trucks have a 1/3 FALR target) I recall that you also confused tongue weight and trailer weight in that discussion. But now that you know that nobody is recommending 100% FALR on all vehicles, you can take the time to review your mistakes.

[out of sight]

You have been reading a generic instruction that serves for dozens of vehicles with hundreds of different load profiles. You can't go by the manual if you want to optimize your loading.

So tell me, why would you put more weight on the front axle than on the rear axle? What is your rational for this lopsided condition?