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Old 11-03-2014, 05:45 AM   #15
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What heavy duty tools do you need to install either of these hitches? Even with an Equalizer you need to be able to torque over 400lbs on the ball nut and 320lbs on the shank nuts/bolts.

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Old 11-03-2014, 06:10 AM   #16
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I don't have the directions handy, but all I remember is needing a torque wrench to 250 ft/lbs or so. I definitely don't recall needing to torque to 400
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:37 AM   #17
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What heavy duty tools do you need to install either of these hitches? Even with an Equalizer you need to be able to torque over 400lbs on the ball nut and 320lbs on the shank nuts/bolts.

Kelvin
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I don't have the directions handy, but all I remember is needing a torque wrench to 250 ft/lbs or so. I definitely don't recall needing to torque to 400
I must be missing a post somewhere, but torque on the Propride is about 250, torque on the 1 1/4" shank trailer ball is 420 (and is that value for the ball mount, no matter what the hitch setup is), and torque on the ball mount to drop bar is 300 pounds for the Reese. So, really, you don't need any heavier duty tools than you would use to install a Reese Dual Cam. In fact, other than torquing the ball itself, torque values are less for either setup than they are for the Reese.
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:44 AM   #18
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What I may do is go to the Airstream web site and use their specs on each model and make a chart that recommends the proper model 3P. Do you all think that would help?
Might help for new trailers, but there are lots of old Airstreams floating around, too. Also, I believe the numbers Airstream gives would be dry - no propane, no water, no personal stuff, etc (batteries?). The decision about which model of 3P might not be that sensitive, though.
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Old 11-03-2014, 12:42 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
What heavy duty tools do you need to install either of these hitches? Even with an Equalizer you need to be able to torque over 400lbs on the ball nut and 320lbs on the shank nuts/bolts.

Kelvin
I second those numbers, in particular the shank bolts. After being stranded at Disney land early this year with a cracked equalizer head, the warranty guy at Progress Mfg indicated that failure to torque the bolts had been implicated in failed welds in the head (I installed and "star torqued" by hand - torqued until I saw stars but it wasn't enough).

I still got my warranty replacement, but it cost me an extra day in Anaheim. Pay attention to the torque requirements!
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:16 PM   #20
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I bought my 2d ProPride3P a couple of weeks ago. The family that bought my 2012 28' International wanted my ProPride, though I would have been happy to keep it for my new Classic. Turnaround time from when I ordered it to arrival was about a week. As everyone has already noted, Sean is right there. I read the installation instructions to see if there were any changes from my first hitch and I didn't pick up anything. I'll have my A/S dealer install the new hitch. I've got all the tools but man, that thing is HEAVY!
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Old 11-03-2014, 09:58 PM   #21
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hey.. you can install the hitch. The 'ball' is already mounted. All you 'need' to lift the hitch is a buddy.. and then set it on a rolling hydraulic jack... then just pump it up! =)

To 'tighten' the bolts.. just buy the best 'closed' / box end wrenches you can find... then go to a machine shop and buy TWO, 3' length of pipe which will slip over the end of the wrench.. now you can set one in place so the ground holds it in place then tighten the other one by hanging on it with a friend... If you can BREAK the bolts, go buy some made in the USA.
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Old 11-04-2014, 07:48 AM   #22
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...thanks, Channing. I negotiated a free install of my new ProPride as part of the purchase of the new Classic. I watched them do this on my Int'l and will do the same with the new trailer....Have got sockets, torque wrench and breaker bars (which I think are mandatory) for adjusting height and rechecking torque Like most of us with the PP, it does take awhile to dial it in. Think this was part of the reason why my old hitch was so attractive. Incidentally, when I had the install done on my first trailer, the dealer had to go out and buy a torque wrench that would measure 250 lbs. Hope they haven't lost it in the last 3 years!
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Old 11-05-2014, 02:53 PM   #23
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How much length do these hitches add to the trailer? My trailer is 31', will it add a foot or so?

Thanks
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Old 11-05-2014, 03:03 PM   #24
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It's not too bad if you are on level ground and use a bottle jack or floor jack to hold the heavy bits up whilst you tighten bolts. My daughter and I installed ours. Do get a 250 ft-pound torque wrench to tighten the critical bolts. The latch tool is also the right size and length to torque the stinger bolts. Just read the install directions twice before you start, and measure carefully.


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Old 11-05-2014, 03:31 PM   #25
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How much length do these hitches add to the trailer? My trailer is 31', will it add a foot or so?

Thanks
It depends what hitch you are comparing it to. I think it's more like 8" longer than a Reese Straight line or and EQ. I'm just kind of SWAGging that as my AS is in storage and I can't go measure against my (back up) Reese.
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Old 11-05-2014, 03:53 PM   #26
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Speaking of a longer hitch, the extra length allows space for the linkage to work and also allows us to lower our tailgate when hooked up.
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Old 11-05-2014, 04:06 PM   #27
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I think it's about 12-18 inches extra overall. I swapped out a Husky WD only hitch and so noted that my tailgate cleared better as well. I'm totally pleased with my ProPride. It saved our butts a couple times in stupid traffic and panic stops already. I really like the way the trailer tows now. Much better tracking, no reaction to wind and close passes by semis, etc.


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Old 11-05-2014, 04:27 PM   #28
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Speaking of a longer hitch, the extra length allows space for the linkage to work and also allows us to lower our tailgate when hooked up.

I forgot about that. I now remember it was a pain getting stuff out of the truck bed when I had the Equal-i-zer.

Ken
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