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Old 06-29-2016, 05:28 AM   #15
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We had the same issue with our F150. Switched to an F250 and now F350 problem solved, by accident. The bed sides and thus the tailgate are shorter (lower) than the F150 just enough to let the tailgate just open, but I also turned our electric motor head on our jack.

Bud like Robertsunrus said. Both our Labs ride in the back seat of our F350.

Bud
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:18 AM   #16
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If you only need a couple inches, a good welding shop should be able to fabricate a mod for you. Get the shortest extension and have them shorten it to the length you need if it's onl a couple of inches it should be okay.
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Old 06-30-2016, 09:40 PM   #17
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If the only reason you can't lower your tailgait is the jack. And all it needs is to be rotated. Can you not take the bolts out rotate the whole assy and revolt. Try.
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Old 07-01-2016, 07:51 AM   #18
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A couple additional points to inform this discussion. You don't need to use and extension, or fabricate something to extend your hitch, you can buy actual shanks that work with common weight distribution hitches in 2 inch increments, you you can just get the size shank you need. I think its also established you can easily rotate the head of the Barker jack motor and often gain clearance. The Atwood motor on my jack on my 2016 FC doesn't rotate, however. If you rotate the whole jack you would need to slightly modify the base plate that bolts to the a-frame, and you don't gain much because the of the shape of the motor compared to the Barker jack. If you want to investigate lengthening your shank to get clearance be aware the often repeated statement that hitch extensions reduce your hitch capacity by 50% is not quite true. If you find websites with actual engineering based calculators or graphs youíll see the force on your hitch increases proportionate to the increase in the length of the hitch. So if you double the length of your hitch you double the force on your hitch. This may or may not be a problem depending on your weights and the hitch capacity. The extensions being talked about here of 1-2 inches to get a tailgate open therefore may only have a 5-20% increase in the force on the hitch, so you'd need to know you tongue weight and hitch rating to know if this is a problem, in my case it is not. So should you keep your shank as short as possible, I would. Can you extend it safely 1 or 2 inches, well maybe, that will depend on your set up. What is interesting is I canít find any information of what shank or drawbar length is assumed when hitches are rated, because if lengthening your shank keeps you under this and well within the rating of your hitch you should be just fine. I also found no consensus on where to measure an increase in length from. All agree from the center of the ball but disagree in terms of whats the fulcrum or pivot point to measure toóIíve seen suggested itís the hitch pin, the front edge of the receiver, or the rear axle, which could make a difference in the percent increase calculation.--Frank
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Old 07-01-2016, 04:11 PM   #19
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Quote: "I also found no consensus on where to measure an increase in length from. All agree from the center of the ball but disagree in terms of whats the fulcrum or pivot point to measure to—I’ve seen suggested it’s the hitch pin, the front edge of the receiver, or the rear axle, which could make a difference in the percent increase calculation."

I would "guess" it should be measured from the rear axle. No?
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