Hitch change

[BradB]

Last year we upgraded from a '76 31 foot to an '82 34 foot Limited. The 76 was set up with a Reese Dual Cam and we were really happy with it. The 34 has an Eaz Lift hitch with two friction sway controls on it.

I am thinking about swapping over to the Dual Cam system on the 34 and wonder if anyone has opinions about using it on a 34'? This would be the original Dual Cam not the HP model.

Thanks!

[Road Ruler]

Brad, what are you using for a TV?

[HowieE]

Over the past 19 years I pulled a 34 with a 1987 1/2 ton Suburban, a 1997 3/4 ton Suburban, and a 2004 Ford Excursion with the Dual Can and later with the Straight Line Reese systems.

An important thing that I would mention when setting up a bar cam system. The bars are not accurately made and thus not the same length. Mark the bars and always place them side to side using the marks. Failure to do this and you can actually add to sway if the bars are riding off center on the cams.

I am now using the Andersen WD hitch with far better results.

[m.hony]

I would think either setup would work just fine. I can't speak on the 2 friction sway controls, but I have had an EazLift with one friction sway control and it worked great.
I also haven't towed a 34' trailer, so I can say it worked great on my 30'.

[BradB]

Good question, a 2013 F150 SCrew, Ecoboost.

Originally Posted by Road Ruler

Brad, what are you using for a TV?

[BradB]

I don't particularly have a complaint about how it works (I know, sounds crazy). The problem is more to do with backing up and having to remove the sway control before backing up tightly. If I understand correctly, there is not a real problem backing with a friction bar on unless you turn too tightly.

To get it into the driveway where we have it parked is a tight turn and it seems that many of the sites that we camp at are similar.

Originally Posted by m.hony

I would think either setup would work just fine. I can't speak on the 2 friction sway controls, but I have had an EazLift with one friction sway control and it worked great.
I also haven't towed a 34' trailer, so I can say it worked great on my 30'.

[m.hony]

Yes, that is correct. With the EazLift I used to just remove the friction sway control or loosen it before backing into a campsite or into the back yard.
The fear is that a too-tight friction sway bar will bend/bind/become damaged if the trailer is turned tightly.
With the Equal-i-zer, I do nothing- just go ahead and back up.
The Equal-i-zer is so much easier (less steps) to hook up. It still ain't no Hensley or ProPride (my next hitch), but is a fairly good second best as far as ease of use/utility.

[SSquared]

Yes, you can damage the friction bar with a tight turn. I use two friction bars on my Eaz-Lift Elite and GMC Yukon. The Yukon has such a tight turning circle I bent the socket on the bar when I did a tight U turn in a gas station. The socket got pinched against the side of the coupler, and would not come off the ball.

[BradB]

Exactly what I was concerned about. I have to stop on the street to remove both bars which I would rather avoid if I could. The cover for the propane tanks interferes with the handle for the bars which makes it a bit more difficult to remove.

Originally Posted by SSquared

Yes, you can damage the friction bar with a tight turn. I use two friction bars on my Eaz-Lift Elite and GMC Yukon. The Yukon has such a tight turning circle I bent the socket on the bar when I did a tight U turn in a gas station. The socket got pinched against the side of the coupler, and would not come off the ball.