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Old 09-30-2017, 07:07 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ View Post
Drop a line of paint from the base of the ball to the top of the hitch surface in a location where you can see it every time you hitch. If the ball rotates the paint on the ball will no longer be aligned with the paint on the hitch
OK, now that's a great idea.
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Old 09-30-2017, 07:40 AM   #22
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I'll bet that whoever put the nut on used an air wrench and impact socket, then just "Burrrrp" it on and called it good. I've never actually seen a torque wrench used anywhere.
I carry a socket, 1/2" breaker bar and a 3' section of pipe. 450 ft./pounds would be the equivalent of a 3' bar with 150# of prying on the end. With a lock washer, I don't see that spinning loose.

But thanks for reminding me to check the nut size on the equalizer hitch.
BTW, I find it much easier to rotate the shank 90 degrees in the truck, then your prying force is applied in a vertical plane so you're not working 1' off the ground.
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Old 09-30-2017, 07:53 AM   #23
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It's weld very good now, never coming loose again, I'll make sure it's greased real good on every use, so the ball should last a long time.
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Old 09-30-2017, 08:15 AM   #24
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Replace the ball with a quality brand like Curt or Reese
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Old 09-30-2017, 08:47 AM   #25
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BTW, I find it much easier to rotate the shank 90 degrees in the truck, then your prying force is applied in a vertical plane so you're not working 1' off the ground.
Now that's a great idea! I am always squirming on the ground trying to push on the bumper!
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Old 09-30-2017, 11:07 AM   #26
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Check your hitch itself, I am assuming that it was the same one that you had before.. I am also assuming that you are not using a hitch that was not made to hall a full-size trailer. The hitch for this trailer usually weighs over 75 lbs.
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Old 09-30-2017, 11:58 AM   #27
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BTW. the "net" says the socket needed for a 2 5/16" ball on an Equalizer hitch is 1 7/8" thin wall.
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Old 09-30-2017, 12:35 PM   #28
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Hitch Ball Retaining Nut Backing off During Trip

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
BTW. the "net" says the socket needed for a 2 5/16" ball on an Equalizer hitch is 1 7/8" thin wall.


Fastway E2 Hitch, Model 10,000 lbs. Round Bar Hitch, with 2 5/16 Ball.
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Old 09-30-2017, 12:35 PM   #29
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This is the Hitch Model: Fastest E2 Hitch, Model 10,000 lbs. Round Bar Hitch, with 2 5/16 Ball.
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Old 09-30-2017, 12:38 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
BTW. the "net" says the socket needed for a 2 5/16" ball on an Equalizer hitch is 1 7/8" thin wall.


Fastway E2 Hitch, Model 10,000 lbs. Round Bar Hitch, with 2 5/16 Ball.
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Old 09-30-2017, 12:42 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMFL View Post
Replace the ball with a quality brand like Curt or Reese

Fastway E2 Hitch, Model 10,000 lbs. Round Bar Hitch, with 2 5/16 Ball.
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Old 09-30-2017, 12:43 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefCarruth View Post
Check your hitch itself, I am assuming that it was the same one that you had before.. I am also assuming that you are not using a hitch that was not made to hall a full-size trailer. The hitch for this trailer usually weighs over 75 lbs.

Fastest E2 Hitch, Model 10,000 lbs. Round Bar Hitch, with 2 5/16 Ball.
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Old 09-30-2017, 12:47 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
BTW, I find it much easier to rotate the shank 90 degrees in the truck, then your prying force is applied in a vertical plane so you're not working 1' off the ground.
Why didn't I think of that??? Just when you think you know it all......
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Old 09-30-2017, 12:50 PM   #34
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Hitch Ball Retaining Nut Backing off During Trip

Thanks, after reading the post I believe what happen is the dealer did not get the torque anywhere close to 450 foot pounds of torque required. Before welding it we got it as tight as we could, the design of the bottom side of the hitch will not allow a 2 13/16” socket to fit properly over the nut making it very difficult to achieve the proper required torque.
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Old 09-30-2017, 04:18 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
BTW, I find it much easier to rotate the shank 90 degrees in the truck, then your prying force is applied in a vertical plane so you're not working 1' off the ground.
When you do it this way you don't "need" a torque wrench. Just a tape measure and a rough idea of your weight. And a little math.
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Old 10-18-2017, 04:21 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ View Post
When you do it this way you don't "need" a torque wrench. Just a tape measure and a rough idea of your weight. And a little math.
A "BUCKSHEE" METHOD FOR SURE!
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Old 10-18-2017, 04:23 PM   #37
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Fastest E2 Hitch, Model 10,000 lbs. Round Bar Hitch, with 2 5/16 Ball.
ARE YOU TRYING TO Say SOMETHING????
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Old 10-19-2017, 08:10 AM   #38
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A "BUCKSHEE" METHOD FOR SURE!
Not sure if that's a compliment or not. I suspect not.

Actually, it's the most accurate method. How do you think torque wrenches are calibrated?

I say whatever works.
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Old 01-09-2023, 11:03 AM   #39
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Welding the nut to the threaded shaft…or to the receiver-bar itself is unlikely to create any hydrogen embrittlement of consequence …nor will it weaken anything. But it will make future ball replacement more complicated.

I welded my anti-way 1” ball to the B&W hitch I modified (also by welding a side-bar for the anti-sway ball-mount itself.) I did this because despite proper torque-values being reached the smaller ball would loosen over a trip. Welding it has permanently resolved the issue…and I’ve towed for almost 100K miles since with this system.

Just be aware that it’s not necessary to weld the entire circumference nor to “over-do” this. You only need to stop the ball and nut from turning with a small amount of weldment….which will also become the “witness mark” …should that weld ever crack or fail.

(Why is it that the internet makes such “experts” on welding or metallurgy out of people who are accountants or grocery-clerks in their day-jobs…or who are even quality-control engineers at Lockheed-Martin suddenly trailer-hitch experts?)

Welding, or cotter-pins, or witness-marks are all within the purview of ordinary owners and do not violate simple good-sense.
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Old 01-09-2023, 01:09 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
I'll bet that whoever put the nut on used an air wrench and impact socket, then just "Burrrrp" it on and called it good. I've never actually seen a torque wrench used anywhere.
I carry a socket, 1/2" breaker bar and a 3' section of pipe. 450 ft./pounds would be the equivalent of a 3' bar with 150# of prying on the end. With a lock washer, I don't see that spinning loose.

But thanks for reminding me to check the nut size on the equalizer hitch.
BTW, I find it much easier to rotate the shank 90 degrees in the truck, then your prying force is applied in a vertical plane so you're not working 1' off the ground.
Happened to me one time years back. Only need that one to happen once to scare you a bit for sure..I purchased the socket at nearby auto supply store and used my 22" braker bar that I also use on my Blue Ox Sway Bars when loading/unloading. Check it now each time I load up.
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