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Old 01-14-2016, 08:21 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
About porpoising, the setup will do this if the WD bars are too TIGHT also.
That's interesting because I have found just the opposite that when the truck bed is loaded down and the trailer is packed I need to tighten the jacks up to get rid of porpoising. A half inch difference in jack height will make the difference.
When we host a unit rally we take a lot more stuff than normal..........firewood, food, tables, etc.......
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Old 01-14-2016, 08:24 AM   #30
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Mine is old, but was obviously hardly used. The original paint is slightly faded, but otherwise good.

I considered taking mine apart and painting it a couple of weeks ago, but it still doesn't need it yet so I put it off for a different year...


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Old 01-14-2016, 08:33 AM   #31
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Hensley vs all other hitches

Having towed with the Hensley for about two years now it finally has become a familiar piece of equipment. The learning curve on hitching is steep and frustrating but there are lots of techniques folks have shared that make hitching less painful. I will defer to others and you will develop your own technique. In level of pain we have progressed from impacted wisdom tooth to smashed thumb although the thumb is no longer throbbing when I hitch.

As others have commented towing is rock solid and simply unresponsive to vehicles passing or crosswinds. When braking hard to avoid my fellow motorists odd maneuvers I have experienced the bump although I never knew it had a name. I'll need to check the hitch setup to ensure I haven't missed something. I can't change the occasional encounter with - aw, you know.

The hitch is a heavy, complicated design that demands attention to detail in pre-travel inspection and mid-tow walk-around. That's one small price to pay for the fabulous, solid performance.

According to the factory rep I spoke with the trailer and truck must be absolutely straight to unhitch/hitch. No angles allowed as with a ball hitch. I learned that when we recently camped at a site that had one of those little half-moon pull-through designs. Our combination's length just did not permit getting the truck/trailer straight on that - the last remaining - site. For some happy reason I chose not to unhitch before getting advice and the factory rep told me that the truck/trailer needed to be straight. Eh? That was a new and mildly unwelcome fact. Have others had experience with this?

With use over the past two years the hitch is showing wear although I have used the available cover. The increasingly ratty appearance will need attention this summer. The powdercoat finish has begun to chip and parts are showing wear and surface rust.

On balance the compromises are acceptable to obtain the great towing performance. I would buy and use the HAHA again.
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Old 01-14-2016, 08:34 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by crispyboy View Post
That's interesting because I have found just the opposite that when the truck bed is loaded down and the trailer is packed I need to tighten the jacks up to get rid of porpoising. A half inch difference in jack height will make the difference.
When we host a unit rally we take a lot more stuff than normal..........firewood, food, tables, etc.......
What I have found:

Too tight caused small, hard oscillations, as the suspensions can't do their job.

Too loose causes large, soft oscillations...this is my definition of porpoising...feels and looks like a porpoise diving and rising in the water.....
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Old 01-14-2016, 08:39 AM   #33
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"According to the factory rep I spoke with the trailer and truck must be absolutely straight to unhitch/hitch. No angles allowed as with a ball hitch..."

That's the easy answer from the rep, IMO. It is definitely easier with a near straight alignment, but, as you gain experience and can visualize the relative motion on uneven ground and larger angles, you can hitch up easily from pretty radical angles. When respective differences in side to side tilt of TV and AS are encountered, you can just use the jacks to introduce a matching tilt to the head relative to the receiver opening. I just takes visualization and analysis of your positioning.
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:26 AM   #34
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Hensley Hitch

I've found that straight is flat not necessary. Just have to move the head by hand to the angle I'm approaching with the TV, fiddle the jacks to the correct roll angle, and find the opening with the stinger. That's the fussy bit.

Once I'm aligned, a gentle push with the TV gets the stinger seated.

True, straight and flat takes less planning, but I've been able to hitch up without a backup camera by just getting out and looking multiple times or have someone guide me a little. Takes practice and a little luck, but I can hit it on the first try.

For the record, I have a ProPride setup.


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Old 01-14-2016, 12:01 PM   #35
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A few very minor but helpful tips I have picked up from Terry at Hensley .........

(1) If the stinger doesn't seem to want to go in the last 1/2" or so, sometimes you can just pull it it with the camlock type latches on the hitch. (in my experience, If that doesn't wok, you probably need to pull your tow vehicle ahead and try lining up again!)



(2) A bit of spray silicon on the stinger - and maybe also inside the hitch - can help
things. (I used to use a type of spray grease, but the silicon does seem to help and is a whole lot less messy.)

(3) To make for a simple unhitching, you can watch the point where the stinger enters the hitch pocket on your tow vehicle - or even put a finger or thumb at this junction.

As you operate your tongue jack, you can then see or feel the point at which the bar becomes loose in the tow vehicle. You then know for sure that there is no downward force tending to bind the stinger in the hitch, and everything unhooks easily.

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Old 01-14-2016, 12:16 PM   #36
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As far as lube goes....I have settled on Mountain Bike chain lube. Think about it....it is designed to lubricate, be waterproof, shed mud and sand, etc, and stick to the chain.

Sounds just like what we want to do here. Just dab it on the ramps about every 2 - 3 months, let it dry to a paraffin-like coating, and forget about it. Doesn't make a mess or get on your clothes, etc.
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:21 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
As far as lube goes....I have settled on Mountain Bike chain lube. Think about it....it is designed to lubricate, be waterproof, shed mud and sand, etc, and stick to the chain.

Sounds just like what we want to do here. Just dab it on the ramps about every 2 - 3 months, let it dry to a paraffin-like coating, and forget about it. Doesn't make a mess or get on your clothes, etc.

Hmmm - sorry to be dense. What are the "ramps" and is Mountain Bike the brand name or the type of lube - do you have a pic of the product? Thanks!
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:25 PM   #38
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The ramps are the "wedges" on the stinger that center and have the force of the cams on them against corresponding ramps inside the head box.

Not a brand. There are many brands of mountain bike chain lube...here's one that I've used,

White Lightning Clean Ride Self Cleaning Lubricant 4oz

I also use it on door and compartment hinges...anywhere I don't want dirty oily stains on the AS. Works well on the BAL stabilizer screws too.
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:30 PM   #39
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I have found that I have no trouble hitching using the get out and look method so long as I don't have a helper telling me which way I need to move. This screws up everything.

I have hooked painlessly when the TV is turned to the left or the right relative to the trailer.

The worst thing I have done with the hitch is when I unhitched one night when I was in a hurry. I had forgotten to remove the safety chains.

The stinger came part way out of the hitch head when the chains caught.

I couldn't get enough slack in the chains to get them off because the hitch head moved to the side cocking the stinger in the hitch head.

I couldn't go forward and I couldn't go back. It took me a few minutes to sort that one out.

I was in a hurry, and being in a hurry made me even more late.. Imagine that...

So, the moral is don't forget to unhook your safety chains when unhooking.


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Old 01-14-2016, 01:41 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
The ramps are the "wedges" on the stinger that center and have the force of the cams on them against corresponding ramps inside the head box.

Not a brand. There are many brands of mountain bike chain lube...here's one that I've used,

White Lightning Clean Ride Self Cleaning Lubricant 4oz

I also use it on door and compartment hinges...anywhere I don't want dirty oily stains on the AS. Works well on the BAL stabilizer screws too.

Awesome - thanks muchly!
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Old 01-15-2016, 03:54 AM   #41
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Thanks dznf0g for the lube information. Found it on Amazon. Choices were 4 oz for $7.99, 8 oz for $13.05 and 32 oz for $34.95. They added shipping (could not go by US Mail) and local sales tax.
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Old 01-15-2016, 06:12 AM   #42
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This works for a lot of stuck stuff, haha too...

Spray on the weatherstrips for easy open AS windows and frozen shut car doors.

Bob
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