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Old 11-14-2017, 10:03 AM   #29
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Getting the jacks plumb.....loosen the U-bolts around the frame to move the mounts


Re-adjust the struts to make sure the hitch head is straight. (ck manual)


Looking at your wheels, run up directly from the ground thru the center of the wheel to the edge of the wheel well. Measure up 1inch and put blue painters tape there.

Take the measurements thru all four wheels with the TV un-hitched and hitched with & without the WD set.
If you can get the hitched measurements to within 1/2inch of the TV alone measurements you should be good.

POI...when I did our rig for the first time using the measurements I only needed 4 runs at the scales to get it dialed in.

Bob
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Old 11-14-2017, 10:22 AM   #30
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Bob, any consideration for the rear measurements for a truck like my 1 ton that starts higher than level?
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Old 11-14-2017, 10:50 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by wbrown View Post
It seems to tow better too. Drove 60 miles through DC metro area traffic yesterday.



How would I do that? Is it the three holes that the jacks are connected one of to?



Front and back wheel wells of the TV?



Yup. We’re on the road now so unhitching to measure wife + dogs in truck would be a little more inconvenient.
I495? If so you da man!
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Old 11-14-2017, 10:57 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by james.mileur View Post
Bob, any consideration for the rear measurements for a truck like my 1 ton that starts higher than level?
uuuumm>>>>>let some air out of the tires.

Not a whole lot you can do....just get a stinger with enough drop to level the AS with WD set to go.>>>>>or maybe some bedlead.

Solid rear axle? You could put the axle above the leaf spring instead of under it.
Remove the leaf spring altogether & install an air bag suspension conversion>>>>I'd try the stinger first.

Bob
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Old 11-14-2017, 01:15 PM   #33
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Help me understand the Hensley Hitch, and height impact?

Quote:
Originally Posted by james.mileur View Post
Bob, any consideration for the rear measurements for a truck like my 1 ton that starts higher than level?


With all our "necessities " loaded in the truck (F350) and a camper shell we're about the same height as F250
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Old 11-14-2017, 07:24 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
uuuumm>>>>>let some air out of the tires.

Not a whole lot you can do....just get a stinger with enough drop to level the AS with WD set to go.>>>>>or maybe some bedlead.

Solid rear axle? You could put the axle above the leaf spring instead of under it.
Remove the leaf spring altogether & install an air bag suspension conversion>>>>I'd try the stinger first.

Bob
No, sorry, poor question. Using the wheel well measurement method, how to do the rough setup when the rear is high from unloaded. Understand the front wheel well measure to return the front axle loading to normal.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:23 PM   #35
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Not sure if it matters if the rear sits up unloaded or hitched either. The front wheel measurement still tells you about restoring weight to the front. I would forget the rear and get the trailer level and some wt restoration to the front. I would suggest weighing it after you set it up with the tape. The trailer is what needs to be level.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:25 PM   #36
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:31 PM   #37
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The trailer should be level, but IMHO the loading of the tow vehicles rear axle is more important. If getting the trailer level makes the loading on the TV wrong, the drop on the stinger is wrong.

There is practically no risk of getting too heavy on a one ton pulling an Airstream, but there is a risk of making the rear axle too light.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:38 PM   #38
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No worries on too light. I'm about 1500 from the payload rating now without all the normal stuff in back and tongue weight. Built in box, shell, tools, etc.
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Old 11-14-2017, 10:29 PM   #39
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Springs are too heavy on a one ton to get much movement. Rough-in is relative anyway. And depending on several factors may NOT get FALR. Trailer level is the thing (Cat Scale split axle weigh).

After that, with a VPP, it doesn't matter quite so much. Focus on TV tire pressure according to actual Load. Get the tested minimum. THEN get back to messing with hitch. And readjust tires as necessary.

Straight front axle and worm gear steering just isn't going to provide much in the way of feedback about handling. Which is what this is about. Better than stock shocks (FOX 2.0 or Bilstein equivalent; or better) and/or rear Panhard Rod is what helps. (Henderson's Line Up; see SteveH thread on that) v

Anti-roll bars can be increased in size, but not many willing to make that change.

How it "tracks" is the thing with these 1940's vehicles.

Upright, and lane centered with next to no inputs by driver to maintain that is goal. The VPP covers the worst of what most truck owners don't expect ("my magic one ton") when it gets hairy.

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Old 11-14-2017, 10:34 PM   #40
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No worries on too light. I'm about 1500 from the payload rating now without all the normal stuff in back and tongue weight. Built in box, shell, tools, etc.
It's the axle ratings. How much on each end is what matters. Ratings don't. (Trailer has full fresh water & propane, right?)

I've got barely 1k left on mine before hitching with 1100-lb TW. Goin over a little just isn't a concern, if it happened. It doesn't matter.

Steering control does.
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Old 11-14-2017, 11:08 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by james.mileur View Post
No worries on too light. I'm about 1500 from the payload rating now without all the normal stuff in back and tongue weight. Built in box, shell, tools, etc.


So how much do you carry ordinarily? Sounds like a ton! I made a few trips with about 1,500 in the box and the Airstream in tow, I had a full set of tools and a bed full of stuff with me.
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Old 11-15-2017, 12:20 AM   #42
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Post #1. After all the measuring and weighing on the Cat Scales. How does the rig handle at all speeds when you make an emergency lane change? That is the "proof in the pudding." Andy R. says the tapered spring bars should flex about 5" when loaded. If you are getting flex in your system in addition to raising the jacks you may need to address that loss of effective lift of the bars. That could come from receiver bar twisting, overall system looseness, or trapezoid bearing failure. That is hard to check by hand because the hitch is so heavy. A sudden loss of a bearing cap is a good clue or if you have clunking with up and down movement looseness. These bearings work just like wheel bearings and are subject to the same failure modes. I experienced all the above and wish you safe towing.
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