Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-27-2015, 04:15 PM   #15
1 Rivet Member
 
Chapel Hill , North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 10
And I forgot a few anwsers
- 170k miles
- 4WD
- all parts were from the dealer - hence no rebuilts
- I am assuming the emergency brake is fine given they had to replace the rear back pads, pistons, and turned the drums.

Thanks
Steve
__________________

__________________
stevegriffin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 04:15 PM   #16
jcl
Rivet Master
 
Currently Looking...
Vancouver , British Columbia
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,050
Did I miss it, or are these the original rotors that were on there when you had a caliper sticking? Didn't see mention of replacing them, or turning them to ensure a consistent surface finish.
__________________

__________________
jcl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 04:38 PM   #17
Rivet Master
 
richw46's Avatar
 
2006 23' Safari SE
Lexington , Kentucky
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,175
Images: 6
Any chance the right rotor is oil/grease soaked?

Brakes are just a hydraulic system. Master cylinder applies pressure to the calipers. If there is unequal pressure the steering will pull to one side. You've eliminated all the other possibilities, just keep trekking up the lines. So maybe the line between the right-front caliper and the master cylinder is clogged or pinched (did you follow the metal line up to the master?). Maybe the master cylinder is clogged, possibly rust if there was any water in the fluid. Have you opened up the master cylinder and checked for any visible problems?

You say the caliper is new. If it was me, I'd disconnect that new flexible line from the right caliper, put a bucket under it and step on the brake pedal to see how much fluid came out. Then I'd inspect the fluid for rust and debris. If there's any indication of rust, I'd replace the master cylinder and totally bleed all 4 wheels, replacing it with new fluid.
__________________
-Rich

Rich & Yvonne
2006 Safari SE -Dora-
2004 4Runner SE

richw46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 07:56 PM   #18
3 Rivet Member
 
Flht2k's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
sacramento , California
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 151
Burnish the brakes I work for freightliner , this is a common issue it could solve the problem
__________________
Flht2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 09:18 PM   #19
Rivet Master
 
Al and Missy's Avatar

 
2002 30' Classic S/O
Melbourne Beach , Florida
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,328
Is there any "steering" with engine acceleration and deceleration? Find a nice straight stretch of highway with little or no crown. Starting at about 45 mph or so, floor it while holding lightly to the steering wheel. Does it pull one way or the other? Then let off of the accelerator completely. Does it pull in the opposite direction? If the answer to either question is yes, suspect bushings in the rear suspension.

Even though the front end was recently aligned, any "slop" in suspension components can result in steering when braking. In a vehicle of this age, worn suspension bushings are a distinct possibility. Braking puts more load on suspension components than going down the road without braking and might not be noticed during an alignment unless the tech is specifically looking for it.

I had bad bushings on a vehicle once. The result was fast wear on the front tires and acceleration/deceleration steering on the rear.

Al
__________________

"You cannot reason someone out of a position they have not been reasoned into"

Al, K5TAN and Missy, N4RGO
2002 Classic 30 Slideout
S/OS #004
2013 Dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 Megacab Cummins
2001 Safari 25 RB Twin (Gone, but not forgotten)
WBCCI 1322, TAC FL-39, AIR 82265

Al and Missy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2015, 02:44 AM   #20
Rivet Master
 
ROBERTSUNRUS's Avatar

 
2005 25' Safari
Salem , Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 7,272
Images: 18
Blog Entries: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
Is there any "steering" with engine acceleration and deceleration? Find a nice straight stretch of highway with little or no crown. Starting at about 45 mph or so, floor it while holding lightly to the steering wheel. Does it pull one way or the other? Then let off of the accelerator completely. Does it pull in the opposite direction? If the answer to either question is yes, suspect bushings in the rear suspension.

Even though the front end was recently aligned, any "slop" in suspension components can result in steering when braking. In a vehicle of this age, worn suspension bushings are a distinct possibility. Braking puts more load on suspension components than going down the road without braking and might not be noticed during an alignment unless the tech is specifically looking for it.

I had bad bushings on a vehicle once. The result was fast wear on the front tires and acceleration/deceleration steering on the rear.

Al

Hi, I think Al and Missy has your answer. Just because you get a reaction from braking doesn't mean that you have a brake problem. Any thing worn like tie rod ends, differential bushings, or even an alignment problem could cause pulling to one side or the other. Another test that I do is to find a straight and level road, Let go of the steering wheel, [or hold it with one finger] and see how long it takes to drift. If it tries to turn quite quickly, it could be an alignment problem. I have driven vehicles that drift badly and it was a bad tire; And when the brakes are applied that drift turns into a bad pull. Swap front tires and see if it pulls the other way.
__________________
Bob

2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent"
[ Small Silver Castle ]
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
ROBERTSUNRUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2015, 05:50 PM   #21
1 Rivet Member
 
Chapel Hill , North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 10
I will test it again but on a straight interstate in a lane with no crown with no braking it goes straight as an arrow

The mechanic said that when he pulled the rear brake shoes really nasty brown fluid started pouring out which was from the Pistons, which is why I had the brake lines flushed.

However you comments about rust and possible damage to the master cylinder makes sense. That might be the next part to go.

More feedback after I do the straight line test

Thanks
Steve
__________________
stevegriffin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2015, 06:04 PM   #22
Rivet Master
 
1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,941
Sounds like the only thing left to check is the master cylinder. The two chamber design could be causing the front left brake to engage more that the right one.
__________________
dwightdi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2015, 07:11 PM   #23
Rivet Master
 
richw46's Avatar
 
2006 23' Safari SE
Lexington , Kentucky
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,175
Images: 6
Letting go of the steering wheel is not a valid test of alignment, ask any tire garage. Slipped belts, dragging brakes, failing bearings, road angle and many other things can impact steering. The OP says he's had an alignment and the brakes are still pulling. I would eliminate alignment.

The dual chambers in master cylinder are for safety and have been in use for more than half a century, maybe longer. If one side is getting more pressure, there's a blockage in the master or in the lines. The flex lines at the caliper have been replaced, I would eliminate them.

The OP has had the following work done at the dealership:
(please correct me if I'm wrong)
Replaced calipers and rear wheel cylinders?
Replaced the front wheel flex line hoses
(I believe the rear wheel cylinders are steel lines up to the cylinders, not hoses)
Replaced pads and brake shoes (confirmed they are not contaminated?)
Turned the rear drums
Turned the rotors
Replaced all brake fluid and bled the lines of air
Wheel alignment (2 wheel or 4 wheel?)

We can eliminate all these parts unless these new parts prove to be defective, which is possible but not likely.

Symptoms: (Please correct me if I'm wrong)
The vehicle travels true until the brakes are applied. The harder the brakes are applied the harder it pulls to the left. Most cars use the right front / left rear and left front/right rear connection for brake lines. If the car is pulling to the left when the brakes are applied, it has to be the right front, left rear, or both brakes that is causing this.

The only two original things (other than the steel lines) left are the vacuum booster and the master cylinder. I think the booster is not specific, it only assists in applying pressure. That leaves the master cylinder. Since the lines were professionally bled, and nothing unusual was noted, that leaves the master. (I'm assuming you replaced the rear wheel cylinders.) Each chamber of the master has its own set of gaskets, one chamber's gaskets may be weaker (or failed).

In for a penny, in for a pound; replace the master cylinder. After that, I don't have a clue. I'd look for Gremlins I guess.
__________________
-Rich

Rich & Yvonne
2006 Safari SE -Dora-
2004 4Runner SE

richw46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2015, 07:51 PM   #24
jcl
Rivet Master
 
Currently Looking...
Vancouver , British Columbia
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,050
I'd look for confirmation that the rotors have been replaced or turned before looking to the master cylinder.

The brakes aren't just a hydraulic system, they are a hydraulic and mechanical system. Let's eliminate friction differences.
__________________
jcl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2015, 08:19 PM   #25
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,193
Most Suburbans have front/rear split brake systems. If it is in fact a right front/left rear system, there can be a proportioning valve at the master cylinder that may not have been replaced. If one allows more fluid through than the other, it will cause uneven braking noticeable in the front.

I know my Ford had a problem with the truck diving left when the brakes were applied, and it was a bent caliper bracket.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2015, 09:47 PM   #26
1 Rivet Member
 
Chapel Hill , North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 10
I did a straight line test and it drives straight with no pull.

I do not think it is suspension because the pulling to the left will get worse to a limit as I brake multiple times. Ie brake and pulls a little brake again a little worse ditto ditto until the pulling does not increase with additional braking. This seems like either a partial blockage or something sticking.

I will check out lines And master cylinder as some have suggested.
__________________
stevegriffin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2015, 12:02 PM   #27
Rivet Master
 
richw46's Avatar
 
2006 23' Safari SE
Lexington , Kentucky
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,175
Images: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcl View Post
I'd look for confirmation that the rotors have been replaced or turned before looking to the master cylinder.
Yes, SteveGriffin, were the rotors replaced or turned? This would be normal if the brakes are being professionally done, but please confirm.
__________________
-Rich

Rich & Yvonne
2006 Safari SE -Dora-
2004 4Runner SE

richw46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2015, 07:32 AM   #28
Rivet Master
 
crispyboy's Avatar
 
1994 30' Excella
alexandria , Kentucky
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,657
Images: 3
Are the rear brakes working ok?
I helped a neighbor with his Expedition last month. Found the rear brakes were not working at all and the vehicle would pull hard to one side when stopping.
__________________

__________________
Steve, Christy, Anna and Scout (Border Collie deceased 11-30-2016)
1994 Classic 30'11" Excella - rear twin
2009 Dodge 2500, 6 Speed Auto, CTD, Quad Cab, Short Bed
Hensley with adjustable stinger
WBCCI # 3072
crispyboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Backing-into-the-driveway strategy Belbein On The Road... 40 03-29-2014 11:31 PM
Floor Install Strategy tesstoaster Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 5 07-20-2012 07:11 AM
Leveling strategy Hit'the'road On The Road... 8 07-23-2005 08:58 AM
My Storage Strategy this Summer uwe On The Road... 2 04-18-2003 09:40 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.