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Old 02-29-2016, 07:31 PM   #1
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2016 30' Classic
Austin , Texas
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Posts: 36
Have you ever been unable to unhitch pro pride?

I've now hitched & unhitched a dozen times successfully, but I definitely have some unhitching anxiety . Getting a better idea of the receiver box angle relative to the TV, but it is still a work in progress.

I've never had a problem hitching, until the last two times. Ultimately had to change the angle of the receiver box on the trailer even though I had obviously been successful unhitching (so the W/D bars should have been released).

Have you ever pulled into (backed into) a place where you could not get unhitched?

Have chronicled a couple of the comedies on our website:

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Old 02-29-2016, 08:01 PM   #2
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What is your WD hitch as that makes a difference as some require a level site for easy connect/disconnect.

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Old 02-29-2016, 08:08 PM   #3
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Hi from Colorado. Nice to meet you. I have had a little trouble unhitching my ProPride every now and then. The friction or binding between stinger and hitch head is high enough to pull the trailer tight against the chocks. It is a bit more challenging on uneven parking spots.

You already know this, but what is key is to get the hitch head "relaxed" on the stringer. I do this by loosening the WD bars so there is no tension on them, and then lift the Airstream tongue just to the point the coupler is no longer has weight on the hitch head ball, and also is not trying to lift the ball. I sense this point of balance by closely watching the interface between coupler and hitch head.

When I lift the tongue with the jack, the trailer goes up along with the pick up until finally I see the coupler just try to "lift" off the ball. There is only about an eighth of an inch "slop" between the point where the trailer has a bit of weight still on the ball, and where the trailer is "floating" before it starts to lift the pick up.

At this point, the stringer is not binding in anyway inside the hitch head. I am always able to pull away from the trailer. Occasionally I get a little "pop" and the stinger breaks free.

It's too bad I can not "replicate" this exact position of hitch head to tow vehicle when I back into the trailer to hitch up. But like everyone, I move the tongue jack to level the trailer, and I can never back into the trailer exactly in the same place. Hitching up on an uneven campground sight is a challenge at times. I have read Forum members spending an hour and several attempts to get the stringer into the hitch head. I'm getting better at it after two years.

So now I have explained what you already know. You must find the exact vertical position between trailer and tow vehicle where the stringer is completely unweighted. Then it will slide out as you move the vehicle forward.

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Old 02-29-2016, 08:24 PM   #4
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Never had that happen. I lower the jack while keeping my finger in the seam where the stinger meets the propride's receiver, stopping when there's some relative movement. of course the WD bars need to be loose, so occasionally I'll need to readjust them.

A couple of times I wasn't able to detect movement between the stinger and receiver. When this happened, I tried to slowly pull away anyway and simply dragged the trailer. I now look at where the propride attaches to the ball on the trailer frame. As I lower the jack I look for the hitch to drop slightly from the frame. After making sure the WD bars are free I'll then I'll quickly advance forward knowing that bodies at rest tend to stay at rest.
Al, K6IV
2015 30' Classic, "Chez Nu"
2014 RAM 2500 w/Cummins Diesel
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:30 PM   #5
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Also, what are you pulling with? You might need to prevent your tow vehicle from automatically adjusting the suspension height. This is a step I needed to add to my connect/disconnect procedure.
Al, K6IV
2015 30' Classic, "Chez Nu"
2014 RAM 2500 w/Cummins Diesel
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:33 PM   #6
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What David said. Here's a video that shows the moment the ball moves independently from the hitch head. Once that happens, you can drive off the hitch.


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Old 02-29-2016, 08:44 PM   #7
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2016 30' Classic
Austin , Texas
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GMC 2500 is our TV.

I follow David's description almost exactly & have watched the videos multiple times, but still can't seem to repeatedly find the recipe. Almost always the trailer height is a hair (1/2") low on disconnect so that is one thing.

A couple other things that I find "non-exact".

1. While watching the coupler lift off the ball, I see it start to move, then stop moving. I'd say that the amount of travel is 1/2" or so. I never know whether to stop at one end or the other, or the middle.

2. Same with the W/D bars. There are several turns from when it first gets loose to the other direction. Stop near the top (flatter head) or near the bottom (tilted up) or in the middle.

I'm certainly over thinking this, but like I said ... every time is a bit different which makes it maddening!
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:33 AM   #8
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So far since June 2013 when I got our Hensley Cub (similar set-up to PP), I've not had the problem with unhitching, but then I loosen the WD spring jacks to un-torsion the bars & apparently am getting the tongue jack at the proper position to unload the ball mount as described above.

So far none of our TV rental trucks have had an adjustable suspension, & the Cayenne S TV for which we're looking now will not have the air suspension - so that issue won't be a problem.

However, I have had the problem of re-hitching on uneven sites when I forget to align the hitch head & it's receiver box for the stinger in all 3 axis so it can go in easily, as it's supposed to do! Note that the head on both Hensley & PP has movement in all 3-axis when the torsion bars aren't cranked in.

It's worst on sites where the curb &/or topography of the site cause the TV to be at a different placement of the 4 wheels coming in at an angle &/or changes it's angle as you back into the hitch box - basically negating the initial 3-axis angle adjustment.

Hensley reccos that you leave the head in the same position as when unhitching, but in reality the TV comes in at a different angle & position anyway, so you're still fiddling with it to re-hitch.

It does make for entertainment at the vintage trailer rallies we go to though!

It all gets better with time & experience.

Tom T (janabanana48's other half )
Orange CA
1960 Avion T20, #2 made, Hensley Cub, TV tbd- looking for 08-14 Cayenne S
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:45 AM   #9
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Houston , Texas
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I have never had a problem getting hitched up and used to think I had a problem finding the correct TV / Trailer height to get unhitched smoothly. Followed the same procedure outlined in the video but still pulled the trailer forward or had a bump when it finally came loose. What I learned was to spray the stinger with TriFlow or another good dry lubricant on a regular basis and the problems went away.
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:08 PM   #10
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Ditto on a lubricant. I use a silicone spray.
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:44 PM   #11
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Lubricant is key. I keep a can of Corrosion X in my battery box (battery is inside the coach). Give it a shot before each hitch up (thanks dkottum for the tip).

As someone else mentioned, measure the height of the head when you hitch up. Only need to do this once and remember the number. My magic number is 16.5". When unhitching remove WD, lower or raise the AS to the dimension and pull out. The jacks should be most of the way down but not all of the way. This is about 1" up from the base for me. The bars should be very free to move side to side with your foot indicating no WD applied.

Using this approach (and plenty of lube) you should be able to pull out even with WD applied. I have done it twice by mistake....
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:57 PM   #12
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caseywsj ... I share you pain. overall I love the Propride but I still occasionally have trouble unhitching. Either too high or too low. My wife and I stare at that darn ball looking for independent movement. I would be ecstatic I someone has a better idea !
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:11 PM   #13
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If the TV is on a uphill/downhill slant, it can be difficult to unhitch. I carry a pry bar and with a little persuasion, you can pop the stinger loose by an inch or two so it easier to unhook.
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:32 PM   #14
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Moved from Sedona to Palm Springs today, so got another chance . Today's technique was to chock wheels, raise the jack up to a height that was estimated to be ~1/2" to 1" above where it normally is on release (normally I don't raise up this high initially, but just take some weight off the TV). I then released the WD bars to be very loose. I then lowered jack and immediately saw movement from the coupler. Went down, back up & split the difference in the middle. Then drove right out to cheers from the wife! Site very level, and the TV was pointed downhill a bit. In Sedona, the TV was opposite (pointing up a hill) and the trailer was pointing pointing down a hill (backside higher). The test will be hook up in 2 weeks, because I did not have to move the jack even a fraction of an inch after disconnect. The whole rig is perfectly level. Will also try the lubricant route as well, but there was one magic moment (in Bisbee) where I took my foot off the brake and the TV just eased right out. I felt like I saw a unicorn. Thanks to all for the pointers!

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