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Old 07-16-2015, 04:20 PM   #1
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1975 31' Sovereign
Lebanon , Pennsylvania
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Hauling AS front end from ID to PA. Need advice!

Hey everyone, please see picture below. In August, I'm travelling to ID to pick-up this front end to repair my front end. I'm using a 2014 Ram 4x4 truck, 4-door, with tool boxes. AS Front end dimensions: 8' wide, 3' deep, 6.7 feet tall.
The base (end touching ground) has C-channel and marine plywood still attached. Here are my ideas.
1. Load the front end as is on my truck with the windows facing the driver side. I will place a wood pallet on the open side (passenger side) and tie down the front end and pallet to my truck bed.
2. Get some 1/2" plywood and cut into 8' x 7' section. Lay that new piece on the bed rails of my truck covering the tool boxes with the 7' side over the tool boxes. Place the front end laying down on the plywood with the base facing the engine. Strap front end down. The new plywood will be bolted to my bed and secured before I set the font end in place.

Any input is appreciated.
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Old 07-16-2015, 05:39 PM   #2
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1979 24' Airstream Excella 24
Tipp City , Ohio
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Looks kinda scary to me. Have you considered renting a trailer ? You could lay it flat on a carhauler type trailer or maybe an enclosed trailer like a U-Haul. When you rent them for 'local moving" it is pretty cheap. As far as I know the term local is open for interpretation. If you rent it in one state and return it to another it can get pricey. Never hurts to ask.
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Old 07-16-2015, 06:11 PM   #3
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If you have a long box, I would look at going with 2-6's across the bed and lay the airstream open side down and then tie it down , no wind resistance this way ?,
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:02 PM   #4
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I 'hope' you will have the open side 'secured' to minimize 'wobble' and bending. There needs to be a gridwork of wood behind it...

ANY 'motion' such as 'strapping' to the exterior surface will 'buff/scratch' it... just by wind buffeting. You will be ... er... disappointed....

Once 'secured' to the 'gridwork', extending to create a 'pallet' on the open side, you can then secure to the 'wood' parts and lay it across your truck bed.

Note: The shape will be a huge 'airfoil'... So, if that was my haul, I would get a flatbed trailer with railings... say, 5x8... then build a 3 sided box out of the 15/32" (formerly known as 1/2") Plywood/chip board. Use Tywraps to secure the corners and along the railing to the trailer. You can then slide in the cap and screw the 'wood grid' to the plywood sides.

That would give you high security from road debris and wind...
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:53 PM   #5
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Lots of bubble wrap over soft micro fleece. That is a tricky move.
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Old 07-17-2015, 12:07 PM   #6
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1993 34' Limited
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Airstream Front End

Quote:
Originally Posted by mgjurina View Post
Hey everyone, please see picture below. In August, I'm travelling to ID to pick-up this front end to repair my front end. I'm using a 2014 Ram 4x4 truck, 4-door, with tool boxes. AS Front end dimensions: 8' wide, 3' deep, 6.7 feet tall.
The base (end touching ground) has C-channel and marine plywood still attached. Here are my ideas.
1. Load the front end as is on my truck with the windows facing the driver side. I will place a wood pallet on the open side (passenger side) and tie down the front end and pallet to my truck bed.
2. Get some 1/2" plywood and cut into 8' x 7' section. Lay that new piece on the bed rails of my truck covering the tool boxes with the 7' side over the tool boxes. Place the front end laying down on the plywood with the base facing the engine. Strap front end down. The new plywood will be bolted to my bed and secured before I set the font end in place.

Any input is appreciated.
You might want to build a wooden crate to prevent it getting damaged.
I picked up my front end at Airstream(Jackson Center,Ohio)
That is how they did it. I strapped the front end to my snowmobile trailer.
I made to Canada no problem at all !!!
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Old 07-17-2015, 01:41 PM   #7
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That's a long way to drive for something you could have moved by freight for a few hundred dollars. It would be upright and inside a trailer, protected from the elements.
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Old 07-17-2015, 02:14 PM   #8
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#2 is what I would do. Sounds like a good plan.
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Old 07-17-2015, 03:51 PM   #9
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Im in agreement, get a freight carrier to ship it to you. They will package it for you, and they will take the risk.
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Old 07-17-2015, 04:06 PM   #10
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1975 31' Sovereign
Lebanon , Pennsylvania
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Thanks everyone for the responses. Freight is $1400.00 from ID to PA. I paid $500.00 for the front end. At $2000.00, I might as well buy the panels new. I like option #2, building a box and laying it open side down. Thanks again for all your help.
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Old 07-17-2015, 04:41 PM   #11
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I agree, rent a car trailer. Rent locally and return locally. Secure wood cross-bracing to the trailer, lay the part on the bracing open side down, top forward. Carefully pad all contact points and strapping. Piece o'pie.
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Old 07-17-2015, 08:09 PM   #12
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When our dealership picked up front or rear caps at Jackson Center, we laid two 2x4's across the top rails of the pickup box parallel and about 48" apart. We bolted them thru the top rails with 5/16 bolts. When we got to the factory, we laid the cap, windows up and top toward the truck cab (bottom open toward the rear). If there was excess sheet metal extending beyond the main body rib, we would either snip the excess metal ( no further than the rib) or we would cut off the 2x4 . We would then drill 1/4 " holes through the 2x4 and then into the main body rib and tighten a hardened 1/4" bolt in each of the four holes. The process was simple, looked good, and rode beautifully. Our trip was only 565 miles but it never gave any problems. And the load was not wider than the 8' 2x4.
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Old 07-17-2015, 10:00 PM   #13
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I would brace it up and move it in an enclosed trailer. Option 2 would be to brace it well and stand it up in the bed and strap it down. Bubble wrap duct taped to the glass.
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Old 07-17-2015, 10:05 PM   #14
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To keep freight expense in perspective, for someone who buys new and keeps a vehicle five years covering 60k miles, your truck has an expense of just over $1.00/mile when all costs are figured.
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