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Old 08-08-2011, 09:17 AM   #1
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Question Had It Weighed...Help Please

Hello Experts,
Here I am again.

Well, we hooked up and took the truck/trailer to the weigh station.
Results are in:

Weights on both:
Steer Axle: 3360 lbs
Drive Axle: 4280 lbs
Trailer Axle: 6620 lbs
Gross Weight: 14,260 lbs

Truck Alone Weight:
Steer Axle: 3740 lbs
Drive Axle: 3220 lbs
Gross Weight: 6960 lbs

Trailer Weight (subtract truck alone from 'both weight'): 7300 lbs

What does it all mean? Please explain in terms I will understand. I have read other posts on this subject but they are too lofty for me to understand....Thanks

In both truck and camper was almost everything we carry - missing 1/2 fresh water tank, 10 gal drinking water, 1 propane bottle empty, food, clothes and dogs (who total 12 lbs).

I tow my 1992 29' Excella with a 2002 Dodge Ram 4x4 2500 Quad Cab (with HD towing package)

I want to tow with 2006 Lincoln Navigator (with HD towing package and Class III hitch)

My current hitch is the Reese weight distribution (with the chains) and an anti-sway bar. I question whether these are set up correctly because I rode in the trailer while being towed to check for vibrations. The hitch was creaking and popping like mad - does this require any lubrication? Where would one go to have the thing checked for proper adjustment?

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:31 AM   #2
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The first thing that strikes me is you need to "tighten up your WD chains" (Tilt head) to get more of the tongue weight on the steer axle.
There are many posts on proper Reese WD adjustment. Just use the search function.

I use reese brand grease for the ball and the WD bar pivot points at the ball mount (head). I find it superior to any other grease I have tried.

I assume you have a friction type sway control???? I would look into the reese dual cam setup and remove your friction control. I use petroleum jelley on the dual cams. The setup is VERY quiet now.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:35 AM   #3
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PTG,

Good for you for making the effort to get your rig weighed. Now you have a starting point. For instance, it looks like you are not shifting (distributing) enough of the hitch weight from the rear axle to the front. Accordingly, I suspect that when you are hitched, your truck front end is riding high.

Perhaps I would start by measuring the height of the front and rear of the truck before you hitch. Your goal then is to adjust the hitch settings to ensure that the front and rear are lowered similarly. Your trailer must be level front-to-back as well. If you can get this to work, then when you re-weigh you will find that the load is distributed more evenly.

There are many threads on the Forums that will help you, plus plenty of folks that will explain this much better than I.

Good work!

Pat
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:36 AM   #4
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Your hitch is not properly set up. The instuctions for the Reese hitch are very good but you must follow them perfectly.

You have too much weight in the rear and not enough in the front. This means that the chains must be tightened and/or the tilt on the head needs to be changed. Also make sure the trailer is perfectly level.

Jay.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:45 AM   #5
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Pictures of the hitch

Here are some pictures of the hitch:
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:02 AM   #6
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You have the old style reese dual cam setup. I'll leave the detail to those who have this model, as I have the newer style. I believe you do not need the friction sway control with this setup. I'd remove it. When the cams are set up properly, they will perform the sway control you need, providing the cam surfaces are not excessively worn. I think you want five links under tension...you have six. Pull up to 5 links, and see where your weights are, then use head tilt to dial in weight distribution...not adding or taking away number of links under tension.

Are your spring bars stamped with a rating? 600#, 800# 1000#, etc?

I appears that after you remove the friction control "ball" on the frame you can move the chain lift ups forward some. Try to get the chains as vertical as you can. Your bottle cover may prevent you from getting the chains exactly vertical, but closer is better.
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:10 AM   #7
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Which part is the head - head tilt? I hate to appear stupid but this is all new to me.
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:13 AM   #8
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Your fourth pic...where there is a square silver plate and two bolts which hold the ball, head (ball mount) to the shank which, in turn slides into your receiver. Loosening these two bolts allows the silver plate to engage teeth on the ball mount, so when tightnened, allow for the head to tilt up or down, providing more or less tension to the spring bars at 5 links of chain length.
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:21 AM   #9
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I would also like for you to check into something else. In pic #4, you have the removeable links where your breakaway chains are attached to the AS. They APPEAR to be quite lightweight, looking at their diameter. The largest capacity I have found are 3500# each. Yours appear to be maybe 1200# capacity. I don't think that is enough. My 3500# links came from HD in stainless.
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:45 AM   #10
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Although this manual is for the new style dual cam, the principles are the same. Perhaps it will clear up some of the adjustment issues for you.
Maybe another member has the old style manual????

http://www.reeseprod.com/content/dow...ion/N26002.pdf
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:49 AM   #11
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And here: for WD setup and adjustment

http://www.hitchpro.net/application/...ons/n66022.pdf
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:53 AM   #12
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Palmtree, you've got a good start.

I agree with all the above, too much on drive axle / not enough on steer axle. Take measurements on your TV & TT before hitching and after, on a level surface and each TT & TV level.

Way too weak links for your safety chain. Heavier duty ones ar $3 - $4 each.

Also, your breakaway cable is hanging low and should be tied-off/ connected to another part of you TV and not your hitch. It doesn't show where it is attached in your pics. I just purchased on of the spiral cables, it stays out of the way and can lengthen while turning.
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:06 AM   #13
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I expect your headlights light up the sky when you were hitched up. The truck should be fairly level, or as level as it was before you hitched up.

Dont worry about being new to this. Everyone was new to it at some time. It takes a while to understand how the hitch works and how to adjust it, but it can be done and its good to be able to do it yourself.

The head is the part the ball is attached to. The shank is the bar that is attached to the head and is inserted into the hitch receiver on the truck. The head should be tilted backwards a bit and I would think the instructions would tell you how much.

You also need to check truck tire pressure. The pressure on the sticker on the driver door is for lighter loads than you have with the trailer hitched. You should check in the truck owner's manual for information on how much weight the truck can tow and how much weight can be on each axle. There may be information on tire pressure, or call the tire manufacturer for advice on how much air to put in them.

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Old 08-08-2011, 02:02 PM   #14
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More Pictures - this looks bad to me.

OK, I looked at everything again - I can't seem to find the weight for the two bars - I only see 20210V cast into the bars and the word Reese - the label has long ago rubbed off.

Here is a picture of how it is right now in my driveway (we just had rain). The truck is pointing a little to the left and these parts just look wrong to me. We can't seem to get the part that holds the bottom right.

ALSO! This trailer does not sit level - the back end is too low - this was pointed out to me by a backhoe operator who was working at my place and then I saw it at the truck stop yesterday. There seems to be no more room on the hitch (head?) to make it lower..... it might be as much as 3-6" off. Maybe more.

The hitch has a label that rates it at 10,000 lb trailer weight and the model # is 54980 or 55990 (rubbed off and can't tell) and under the 10,000 lb trailer weight it says 1200 lb but the rest is gone.
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