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Old 08-12-2011, 03:20 PM   #85
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Problem Brewing

Hi Experts,
Well, I have a problem brewing - I can't 'break' the bolt loose. I've sprayed it with WD40 and haven't tried again yet. It is such a knuckle buster situation.......I might need some suggestions to get it off. There's like zero room to work.
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Old 08-12-2011, 03:36 PM   #86
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Had It Weighed...Help Please

Greetings Palmtreegirl!

Quote:
Originally Posted by palmtreegirl View Post
Hi Experts,
Well, I have a problem brewing - I can't 'break' the bolt loose. I've sprayed it with WD40 and haven't tried again yet. It is such a knuckle buster situation.......I might need some suggestions to get it off. There's like zero room to work.
You might want to try Kroil PB-Blaster as it is a much more effective penetrating oil than WD-40. You can read more about PB-Blaster at this link.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin

P.S.: You might consider using a pair of vise grip pliers with a breaker bar to gain some additional leverage. Also, don't be afraid to use the penetrating oil liberally and allow it to soak in for as much as 24 hours.
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Old 08-12-2011, 06:57 PM   #87
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Try this.....AC Delco Part 10-6000
88900415
Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor, available at any GM Dealer, works well for rusted parts. You may have to make several applications thru the day, spray, whack the base of the bolt, (where it goes into the bracket), several times with a blunt drift rod. Be patient it may take time and several tries.



Bob
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:18 PM   #88
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Good News and Bad News

Well, the good news is: I got one of the bolts off.

The bad news is: the other one is not moving. I've had the closed end of a box wrench on it and pounded on it with a hammer - no way.

I'm going to have to look for that stuff....All I have at the moment is the wd40. It is pretty rusty - the one I did get off was really, really stiff all the way to the end. I think I'll find stainless steel to replace them.

It looks like the brackets are going to be able to move plenty - at least 3" if necessary.

What is a blunt drift rod?
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:32 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palmtreegirl View Post
Well, the good news is: I got one of the bolts off......What is a blunt drift rod?
Liz,
if the tapered punch you used for the chain has a flat end use that.

What your trying to do is "shock" the threads in the bracket to break the rust tension.

Bob
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:35 PM   #90
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PB-Blaster will bust up the rust. Let it soak, it will work.
Good luck,
Joe


Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander64 View Post
Greetings Palmtreegirl!



You might want to try Kroil PB-Blaster as it is a much more effective penetrating oil than WD-40. You can read more about PB-Blaster at this link.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin

P.S.: You might consider using a pair of vise grip pliers with a breaker bar to gain some additional leverage. Also, don't be afraid to use the penetrating oil liberally and allow it to soak in for as much as 24 hours.
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Old 08-13-2011, 09:38 AM   #91
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The local auto parts store carries the PB-Blaster - I'll be going over there after I get started on my building project - picking up anything I need at HD at the same time.

Thanks guys,
Liz
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Old 08-13-2011, 11:49 AM   #92
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Replacement bolts should be the same hardness or more than the original ones. The hardness will be (should be, maybe rust has made it hard to see) on the head of the bolt. Hardest is #8. Stainless steel may be hard to find in that grade and size.

Some sort of breaker bar will make is easier to get the bolt to let go—any time you lengthen whatever you are using to loosen it will increase the power substantially. Without a lot of room, this requires innovative thinking and strange combinations of tools to create the lever that can move the earth—a long enough bar can turn the trailer upside down, but you might have trouble lifting the bar. A piece of steel or iron pipe big enough to fit over the wrench helps a lot. Heating the bolt with a torch sometimes works so long as you don't burn the trailer to the ground.

Gene
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Old 08-14-2011, 06:05 AM   #93
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Here's a good one!

Good Morning Experts!

I've got a good one for you......I went into the local auto parts store to get a can of the PB Blaster. The young man helped me (as I was the only customer in the store) and as I was checking out we were discussing the product. He said "just spray it on.....it will eat up a styrofoam cup"......I said, "I'm not worried about the styrofoam, what does it do to the rust?"
Ha Ha.....this was funny to me.

SO, I sprayed it on last night before I came in.....it's raining now so once it stops, I'll probably spray it on again.....

Thanks for the tip on bolt hardness - I wouldn't have known that - the auto parts guy said he can get just about anything in that department if they don't carry it in stock.

My interior project is coming along - I'm not a carpenter and I'm dealing with the curves and odd shapes of the front of the AS the best I can - so far, so good. I'm trying to make a frame around the batteries and other electrical looking stuff. Got to re-mount the battery-kill switch - I'm going to put it vertical on the paneling I use to close in the front of the box - the top is going to be a bench. Woo Hoo, I finally bought myself a new circular saw - I've purchased two different ones at garage sales and neither one worked.

Will update on the bolt.
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:01 AM   #94
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Frozen Bolt - not moving

Hello Experts!

Well, I can't get that dang bolt off - my last chance is coming over in a little while - men! I'm hoping that they will be stronger (most likely) than me and can strong-arm the stupid thing off. I PB Blasted it to death - not moving..........AAAARRRRRGGGGG! This is frustrating!
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:17 AM   #95
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Good news - I had the electrician help me - he could barely get the bolt off with a pipe wrench, but we did it! I'll be heading over the the fastener place to get shorter ones later or tomorrow.
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:47 AM   #96
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Good morning Experts.

I had to move the trailer yesterday - only down to the end of the driveway - since I don't have the clamps on that hold the chains for the weight distribution part of the hitch, I just put the whole tongue weight on the ball on the truck.

I have got to tell you.....that trailer almost seemed level.......of course the front wheels of the tow vehicle were just about off the ground!

Either later today or tomorrow I will be getting new bolts - #8 hardness and 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" long. When I reassemble it, do I want the chains to hang straight down with or without the cam arm in the saddle or doesn't it matter. To get the chains to hang straight without the bars, I have to move the bracket about 2" closer to the propane tank cover.
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:22 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palmtreegirl View Post
Good morning Experts.

....... When I reassemble it, do I want the chains to hang straight down with or without the cam arm in the saddle or doesn't it matter. To get the chains to hang straight without the bars, I have to move the bracket about 2" closer to the propane tank cover.
Liz,

Your chains are basically the same as the jack tubes on the haha.
When tensioned you want them as vertical as possible with the cam in the center of the saddle.

Bob.
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:08 AM   #98
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Had It Weighed...Help Please

Greetings Liz!


I was browsing through some of my links, bookmarks, etc., and ran across these links and documents that might help to explain some of the theory and process behind setting-up your Reese Strait-Line Hitch:While I haven't yet completed this project, my plan is to print this information and place it in my travel binders with the manuals that stay in my trailers. It seems like I end up referring to one or more of these documents at least once or twice a year.

Good luck with your setup!

Kevin

P.S.: I don't know whether these photos of the Strait-Line Hitch on my Minuet/Cadillac combination will help, but the setup made the round-trip between Illinois and Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks without problems:

The pull on the snap-up bracket isn't as straight as I would like, but I was short of time and didn't want to remove the old friction sway control bracket (it was removed as part of my pre-season adjustments this year):



Trunion and Saddle meeting is illustrated below:



Almost ready to tow status . . . umbilical cord isn't yet attached, and ball grease cover needs to be stored . . . .

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