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Old 08-10-2011, 12:01 PM   #71
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Rednax, I believe you are off on the tongue weight. You have included the removed FA weight to the tongue weight to get the RA weight.

TW=14,260-6960-6620=680#which is 9.3% of trailer total weight. Not enough IMHO.

Edit: I'm either losing my mind, or...did you edit your post?
Yup, edited. Note to self: Don't do this while also on telephone. Bringing Steer Axle weight/height back was the only point.

Thanks for corrections. I also was in contradiction.

More scale readings necessary as unhitched weight of Steer Axle seems high also.
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Old 08-10-2011, 12:07 PM   #72
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Yup, edited. Note to self: Don't do this while also on telephone. Bringing Steer Axle weight/height back was the only point.

Thanks for corrections. I also was in contradiction.

More scale readings necessary as unhitched weight of Steer Axle seems high also.
She did say in OP that truck and trailer were loaded with all their stuff, so I disregarded analysis until we can get the hitch and trailer load arranged correctly.
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Old 08-11-2011, 07:53 AM   #73
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Red face Trailer Front and Back Measurements

Good Morning Experts,

Yesterday I had the Centramatic Balancers put on the trailer - had the tires checked thoroughly. ONE tires was in balance - curb side rear was WAY off and I feel must have thrown off a weight (over 2 oz off). Got them all balanced now and installed balancers.

The front tow vehicle tires were low pressure - trailer tires all ok and rear TV pressure ok.

MEASUREMENTS - picked a common place on the bottom trim line and measured front and back, both sides, and averaged the two. The parking lot looked level.

Front of trailer: 21 1/16"
Rear of trailer: 19 3/16"

Still working on re-distributing weight - working on a project involving the couch and boxing in the batteries, etc.

Any thoughts? (Please remember, I don't understand the mathmatic stuff - in language I can relate to please.)
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Old 08-11-2011, 08:03 AM   #74
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The hitch head needs to come down about a half inch relative to the shank. So if you buy a 6" drop shank and set the ball height about 1" lower than the AS coupler height (with the trailer sitting LEVEL), you shold have a good starting point of adjustment.
You want the ball lower than the coupler so that as you put more tension on your spring bar chains, the rear of the truck and the front of the tongue start to rise as weight is shifted to the front TV axle and AS axles.

This is a good starting point. I assume you still have the truck and trailer pretty well loaded with your travel "stuff". You definitely want your stuff in when setting up.

BTW the hole spacing on the shanks is 1 & 1/4", BUT they may not be in exactly the same elevation relative to the top surface of the shank, so you really need that coupler height vs. ball height dimension to start with.
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:19 AM   #75
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Clarification on measurement please...

Could you refresh me on where to measure? Is that the top of the part that goes on the ball (that cup part) and (on the truck) the top of the ball - when the camper is off the truck and both are on level ground?

I'll need to get the one gas bottle refilled, too, as that will add tongue weight.

I am working on my project that will add some tongue weight - we are going camping on the 21st of August so I'm trying to get this done in the next couple of days. (At least the heavy part of the project).

Shall I hold off buying a longer shank?

NOTE: There is a hex bolt holding the bracket that snaps the chains - this is about 3" long......is there any reason I can't put a shorter bolt on? This is going to make moving the bracket difficult unless I shorten it. Do you need a picture?
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:33 AM   #76
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Could you refresh me on where to measure? Is that the top of the part that goes on the ball (that cup part) and (on the truck) the top of the ball - when the camper is off the truck and both are on level ground?

I'll need to get the one gas bottle refilled, too, as that will add tongue weight.

I am working on my project that will add some tongue weight - we are going camping on the 21st of August so I'm trying to get this done in the next couple of days. (At least the heavy part of the project).

Shall I hold off buying a longer shank?
Liz,
levellevellevel!!!
Top of the cup, bottom of the ball, (as the tongue sits), that will get you real close. I would hold off until you get your measurements correct.
I checked your previous pic post, not clear which bolt is the problem?
Bob
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:05 AM   #77
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Picture of the bolt

Here is a picture of the bolt I'm talking about - very long and will not allow much movement of the bracket unless I can get a shorter one:
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:13 AM   #78
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Here is a picture of the bolt I'm talking about - very long and will not allow much movement of the bracket unless I can get a shorter one:
Yep,

Take it off, clean the threads, screw a nut on it, cut it down to length, remove the nut to straighten the threads. Or just find a shorter one. You could use the nut to lock down the bolt when re-installed.

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Old 08-12-2011, 08:40 AM   #79
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OK, I'm on it - I'm going to pound a punch through the last link of the safety chains to make the opening big enough (not much needed) to take the 3500 lb chain coupler, too.
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:47 AM   #80
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What Robert said on the bolt. To avoid confusion, Robert and I have described two different ways on the coupler height measurement:

Robert: Top of cup on trailer to ground = measurement #1. Bottom of round part of ball to ground = measurement #2. These two measurements match. Right Robert?

My method:Top of cup on trailer to ground = measurement #1. top of round part of ball to ground + 1" = measurement #2.

EDIT: However, these two methods will result in different final hitch heights. Robert's method sets the ball about 2 & 5/16" high. That, in my experience may compensate for the compression of a 1/2 ton truck, but I have found that a 3/4 ton to needs more like an inch.

You should try with your current shank before you spend the money, but I think you'll find the ball too high by 1/2 - 1".
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:13 AM   #81
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DZ,

Well... they SHOULD match. I was within a 1/2" when I did ours on the Burb.

Although the the Burb is a 3/4, it's suspension is considerably softer than most, your probably right on the Dodge needing an 1"+.

One ?...2 & 5"15"
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:15 AM   #82
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DZ,

Well... they SHOULD match. I was within a 1/2" when I did ours on the Burb.

Although the the Burb is a 3/4, it's suspension is considerably softer than most, your probably right on the Dodge needing an 1"+.

One ?...2 & 5"15"
Sorry, fat fingers! I edited previous post..
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:19 AM   #83
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Sorry, fat fingers! I edited previous post..
Yeah....my brain is three feet from my fingers. +/-... 2 & 5"15"
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Old 08-12-2011, 12:39 PM   #84
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... There is a hex bolt holding the bracket that snaps the chains - this is about 3" long......is there any reason I can't put a shorter bolt on? This is going to make moving the bracket difficult unless I shorten it. Do you need a picture?
I think they got a good price on extra long bolts (I'm assuming you're referring to the bolt that clamps the back side of the snap bracket to the a-frame). It only needs to be long enough to adequately secure the clamp. The spare tire on my previous white box trailer was mounted in the a-frame so I had to use shorter bolts.
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