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Old 08-09-2011, 09:21 AM   #57
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Liz, you are going about this well. Keep it up and you'll be training everyone else.

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Old 08-09-2011, 05:37 PM   #58
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Problem

Hello Experts,

Today I removed the sway bar and the ball bracket.

I tried to replace the chain coupler with brand new stainless steel 3500 lb rated ones - much to my dismay, after I finally got the old one off, I found that the chain link is too small and the new one would not fit through. What to do?

Good news - the Centramatic Balancers came today and I have an appointment for tomorrow morning to put them on and check the balance and tread depth (wear) of the new-in-2010 tires. While the trailer is at the flat tire store, I am going to measure the front and rear of the trailer at the bottom trim to the ground and see how far off it is from level.

Bad news - While removing the dirty velour panel that is to the right on the wall as you enter the camper, I discovered soft floor in one small area, right at the edge of the upright outside wall - would have been under the couch but I moved the couch - about 18" away from all the battery stuff that was under the couch. (curb side under the window) - I could push my screwdriver right in and leave an indent. The PO installed cork flooring right up to/over it - no traffic that close to the wall though. I'm hoping it isn't an issue - don't need another one of those!

Please advise on how to handle the chain coupler not fitting into the safety chain links.

Oh, I also put the cord (and the break-away wire) through the pin that holds the tongue lock down as Bob mentioned.
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:40 PM   #59
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Weights on both:
Steer Axle: 3360 lbs
Drive Axle: 4280 lbs
Trailer Axle: 6620 lbs
Gross Weight: 14,260 lbs

Truck Alone Weight:
Steer Axle: 3740 lbs
Drive Axle: 3220 lbs
Gross Weight: 6960 lbs

Trailer Weight (subtract truck alone from 'both weight'): 7300 lbs

In both truck and camper was almost everything we carry.

I tow my 1992 29' Excella with a 2002 Dodge Ram 4x4 2500 Quad Cab (with HD towing package)


Liz, to play the numbers game (and figuring this out is easier than adjusting the hitch), one begins by going to the DODGE Towing Guide and following the menu selections provided in order to find the vehicle manufacturer towing values. From there it is a matter of keeping front axle weight constant (from unhitched to hitched), and that the TW is divided from TV to TT in about a 75:25 ratio.

I made guesses as to engine, transmission, rear axle ratio in order to come up with:

2002 dodge ram 2500/3500 pickup quad cab 2500 SLT, QUAD CAB, 4WD, SWB Bed, Transmission - Four-Speed Automatic, 46RE, Engine - 5.9L Magnum(R) SMPI V8:

With Axle Ratio - 3.55 Axle Ratio [i] You Can Tow 8100 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) [i] = 8800 lbs
Payload [i] = 3071 lbs
Curb Weight [i] = 5729 lbs
Curb Weight Front/Rear = 3299 lbs/3299 lbs
GAWR Front/Rear [i] = 5200 lbs/6084 lbs
Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) [i] = 14000 lbs

By the book it looks as though you are in range of the numbers published.

With "correct" WDH adjustment, the Steer Axle weight will return to the loaded but unhitched height and weight, and the balance of the remaining trailer tongue weight will be split approximately 75-25 from Rear Axle to Trailer axle.

That 380-lbs on the Steer Axle is what all the fuss is ever about.

.
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:43 PM   #60
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Well, I guess you have 2 choices...replace the chains with a larger link chain...or, do you recall what the rating was on the next smaller diameter coupler was? I don't know what rating is required (or if there is a requirement) but I gotta believe if a 7600 pound trailer became disconnected that the pulling force of locked brakes and tongue on the ground couldn't be more than 5000#, could it? What say all of you?
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:43 PM   #61
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P.S. How do you deal with all the holes in the wall where this panel was attached and, it seems, plenty of other stuff - just pop rivets into them?
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:47 PM   #62
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Oh gosh! When I said flat tire store, I meant that the parking lot is flat - oh, that was funny!
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:52 PM   #63
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Rednax, I believe you are off on the tongue weight. You have included the removed FA weight to the tongue weight to get the RA weight.

TW=14,260-6960-6620=680#which is 9.3% of trailer total weight. Not enough IMHO.

Edit: I'm either losing my mind, or...did you edit your post?
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:53 PM   #64
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P.S. How do you deal with all the holes in the wall where this panel was attached and, it seems, plenty of other stuff - just pop rivets into them?
What panel? What am I missing?
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:56 PM   #65
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Oh gosh! When I said flat tire store, I meant that the parking lot is flat - oh, that was funny!
Well, it is a flat tire store isn't it? Every tire I've ever bought was flat until they mounted it and aired it up!
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:58 PM   #66
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Hello Experts,


Bad news - While removing the dirty velour panel that is to the right on the wall as you enter the camper, I discovered soft floor in one small area, right at the edge of the upright outside wall - would have been under the couch but I moved the couch - about 18" away from all the battery stuff that was under the couch. (curb side under the window) - I could push my screwdriver right in and leave an indent. The PO installed cork flooring right up to/over it - no traffic that close to the wall though. I'm hoping it isn't an issue - don't need another one of those!
I sort of changed the subject......sorry.
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:07 PM   #67
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I sort of changed the subject......sorry.
Probably should start another thread for the new topic? But, I believe most would say to re-rivet the holes.
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:14 PM   #68
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You're correct - don't want to 'muddy the water'.
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:18 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palmtreegirl View Post
Hello Experts,

I tried to replace the chain coupler with brand new stainless steel 3500 lb rated ones - much to my dismay, after I finally got the old one off, I found that the chain link is too small and the new one would not fit through. What to do?

Please advise on how to handle the chain coupler not fitting into the safety chain links.
Liz,

I opened the links on my chain with a Tapered punch like this.
I laid the link over a one inch deep impact socket and drove the punch into the link to open it enough to accept the stainless coupler. You will need a shorter punch with a sharp taper, and a big hammer.

Bob
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Old 08-10-2011, 05:58 AM   #70
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I'm going to give that a try this afternoon - I think I have a punch like that.....and a BIG hammer.....I'll let you know.

Balancers today and measuring the front and back.....will post that later.

Have a great day experts!
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