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Old 01-11-2015, 01:51 PM   #43
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1969 29' Ambassador
brooksville , Florida
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,195
Also, you can but 2 5/16th hitch ball covers. I put one on mine to keep some Grease on it to prevent rust. Also keeps little hands from getting on it painting grease all over the place.

Not all those who wonder are lost.
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:13 PM   #44
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2002 25' Safari
1977 20' Argosy 20
northern valley , new jersey
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Posts: 510
we use the Reese - Hitch Ball Grease on the ball, and the heads of the WD trunnion bars.

greasing the ball brings the added benefit of keeping the coupler latch lubricated, making it easier to use and minimizing wear.

we store the hitch head coupled and locked onto the tongue, so the grease is not out there to dirty your clothes.


Joseph & Gabrielle

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication - Leonardo da Vinci.

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Old 01-11-2015, 02:40 PM   #45
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2014 19' Flying Cloud
Eugene , Oregon
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It's true. My boat trailer ball was unwinding from a very well tightened, lock washer-ed stinger. Also, the creaking from my originally not greased AS ball-hitch was excessive. We grease and cover for both reasons, plus the Equalizer bar assembly.
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:41 PM   #46
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1966 24' Tradewind
2005 22' Safari
Bastrop , Texas
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Been greasing trailer balls for the last fifty years , have even gone as far as drilling and installing grease zerts on the top of the coupler to be able to shoot a bit of grease into the hitch and ball every couple of days on long trips without having to unhitch. Chassis grease or wheel bearing grease works just fine .
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Old 01-11-2015, 03:48 PM   #47
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2004 30' Classic
Hillsborough , New Jersey
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greasing hitch ball

Looks like the "greasers" win!!!!!!
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Old 01-11-2015, 04:22 PM   #48
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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Grease is the word.

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Old 01-11-2015, 04:37 PM   #49
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2012 30' Flying Cloud
Marthasville , Missouri
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I use grease, but read a thread that recommended using silicone spray on the ball and a shot into the coupler before each hitch up. Believe the thread was on this forum, but haven't searched. Seems the silicone spray would be cleaner than grease, but don't know if it's better or equal to grease. Anybody using silicone or had experience with it? Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-11-2015, 04:44 PM   #50
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Corpus Christi , Texas
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The film needs to be thick.
1990 35' Silver Streak Sterling; 9k GVWR.
2004 DODGE Cummins 305/555; 6-manual; 9k GVWR.
Hensley Arrow. 10-cpm solo, 18-cpm towing
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:30 PM   #51
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1978 31' Excella 500
Barrie , Ontario
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Yes Grease the ball. Other wise it does not let the hitch move freely also cuts down on the creaking and groaning of the metal against metal.
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:37 PM   #52
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Apache Junction , Arizona
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I spray a little Teflon onto the ball when I think of it. Probably needs more attention then I give it.
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:09 PM   #53
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Danielsville , Georgia
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I find maiden oil works best, but there ya go
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:16 PM   #54
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2007 22' International CCD
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My Austrian grandfather always said, "He who greases, travels..."

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'The Silver HamShack' (2007 International 22FB CCD 75th Aniversary model)
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:35 PM   #55
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Burlington , Ontario
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Yep.....every time I unhitch....Once a year.


In case you might not have seen it, here is a simple way to grease the hitch ball when you have a Hensley fitted without needing a trolley jack. I did mine this way last time.

(See info below from Hensley.)


Greasing the Hensley Hitch Ball
may 11, 2013 by hensley mfg. 1-800-410-6580 leave a comment

Hensley Hitch with standard jacks.

I promise to make a video of this soon, but a number of you have asked for instructions on greasing the Hensley Hitch Ball. It’s fairly simple and doesn’t require you to lift the hitch head.

1. Hook up to your trailer. Lock the over-center latches but leave everything else unhooked. Leave the tongue jack down.
Hensely Hitch Detail

2. Unlatch the coupler from the hitch ball.

3. Loosen the strut bars until they’re sloppy loose (if you forget to do this, the struts will hold the ball tight against the coupler and you’ll never get it unhooked).

4. Raise the trailer tongue as if you were unhooking from a standard ball hitch. The coupler should lift off the ball. If it doesn’t come off, loosen the struts more or remove them altogether. If that still doesn’t work, you probably have some rust or dirt in the coupler. Get some WD-40 or rust penetration spray and spray up into the coupler. It will work free. If you lube the ball once a year, you should never have this problem.

5. Once the coupler is free, raise it up until you have room to work on the ball. You can pull the tow vehicle forward if you’d like more room.

6. Clean the ball and inside the coupler. Try to get any dirt or rust out of the coupler.

7. Now grease the ball. Any automotive grease will do. Be generous. You can’t over-grease. Use a rag to wipe it inside the coupler as well.

8. That’s it. Now lower the coupler back onto the ball, lock the latch. Many owners actually put a lock through the coupler latch to prevent theft of their Hensley Hitch. Just don’t lose the key!

9. Tighten the struts again. Remember: they should be even on both sides (count the threads) and just tight enough so that the struts don’t rattle when you try to shake them. Check your struts after the next time you tow, they may loosen as the ball settles back into the coupler.

10. That’s all there is to it! Shoot for once a year with this. Thought the ball doesn’t move much inside the coupler with the Hensley Hitch, it does rotate up and down. If it sits for years without lubing, the coupler may rust and damage the ball.
Brian & Connie Mitchell

2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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Old 01-11-2015, 08:57 PM   #56
2006 34' Classic
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 261
All trailers and TVs need to be connected together by a ground so the lights and brakes will work properly. The pigtail serves this purpose. For those who only depend on grounding through the coupler why not grease the ball with silicon dielectric grease, the kind we used to lubricate ignition distributor parts. Permatex still makes it. This will allow the ball and coupler to ground with each other.

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