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Old 05-08-2014, 07:28 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by CanoeU70 View Post

However, I just recently discovered that the "HD Towing Package" does not include air boosted rear shocks. That is a separate option; go figure: "HD" for heavy duty and that does NOT include an air boosted rear end leveler?

So I am online today seeking an aftermarket solution. I called my dealer and it's too late to install the air system on my Ford.

The attached photo shows my rig in what NavArchs call a "condition of sag" (the bow and stern riding on 2 wave tops) and this leads to frequent scrapes on entrances with rain inclined pavement.
I don't think your hitch is set up to redistribute enought weight. Look at the photo of my rig in post 6 of this thread. No air bags or air leveling suspension. Just dialed in the hitch.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:12 AM   #16
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Sorry but I am confused. You said you were seeking an online aftermarket solution because your Expedition towing package did not include air boasted rear shocks (don't know what that those are). Are rear shocks something you need? Thanks. Kristine
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:33 AM   #17
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We towed our 31ft. Classic with our 2007 Expedition Limited EL for several years before we moved up to a F-250. Power was never an issue. Size of the vehicle could be at times in high wind conditions. What issues we had could have been resolved with a ProPride or Hensley hitch. Your trailer comes in at less weight and should not be a problem. Be sure to get it set up properly with the factor tow package. Have fun.
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:34 PM   #18
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While the simple answer is that you need more tension on the bars, you may need to re-adjust the ball mount. Make sure it's high enough, with a rearward cant. This will allow you to draw the bars tighter.

If this doesn't work, you may need stiffer bars (do you have 750 or 1000 lb bars?). Or, the factory receiver may be twisting and not allowing a proper setup. Solutions involve reinforcing, or a better quality aftermarket receiver.

Air bags and air shocks are for heavy loads in the vehicle, not for towing.
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:32 AM   #19
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Ford Expedition Hitch difficulties (dialing it in)

Many thanks to Andy & AldeanFan. You Rivet Masters are what make this Forum so useful.

One of my professional career sayings is: "Show me 100 'systems engineering problems' and I'll show you 90 that are dimensional."

Using your advice and other Google research on hitches and equalizers, I measured my rig with the following results:

When level, the top of my Airstream hitch's ball socket is 20.5 inches while the top of the hitch ball on my Expedition is 20 1/4" (+/- 1/8").

When level, the top of the wheel wells of the Expedition are 35 1/2" both forward and aft and the clearance below the Equalizer hitch is ~ 8" (this height depends upon loading).

Once I lower the trailer and secure the ball, clearance drops to barely 3" and the rear wheel well drops to 32 1/2".

My Airstream dealer installed the Equalizer (on a Suburban) when I bought the trailer for a $1000 fee, which at time seemed steep but in retrospect appropriate in that it took two mechanics nearly 2.5 hours to "dial it in."

Thus, I have suspected that the details of the hitch geometry are the root cause of my difficulties.

The fact remains that when I load my trailer on the Expedition, it squats despite the fact that I did add Sumo coil spring spacers to the rear shocks before this last trip.

Next step is to raise the spring bars on the Equalizer and either order a new Equalizer "shank" or machine the one I have to add additional holes. I have already raised the ball 3 inches on the original shank to match the Airstream hitch height to achieve the results described above.

OBTW, that darn shank drags whenever I cross a dip and makes a dreadful noise. I need to either cut it shorter or install caster wheels.
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Old 06-10-2014, 06:09 PM   #20
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It looks like you had a 2007 or newer Suburban and that is why you needed a longer drop on the shank. You could buy the shank that originally came with your hitch kit or find someone that can cut it for you.
How many washers were installed in the hitch head? There should be at least 5 to start with so that it is tilted back. How far down are your "L" brackets on the "A" frame?
I have the Tahoe version of the Suburban and the hitch is in the rear bumper rather than below it and that is why we need the longer drop.
Good luck
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:55 PM   #21
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CanoeU70's tow vehicle looks like my neighbor's tow vehicle (silver Expedition) with my hitch on it (Equal-I-Zer).
The drop shank on my Tundra does drag when driving through a dip.
Looks like a fellow Mississippian, maybe from the coast (Butch Oustalet Ford)?
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeU70 View Post


OBTW, that darn shank drags whenever I cross a dip and makes a dreadful noise. I need to either cut it shorter or install caster wheels.
Hi, I had the same problem with my shank; I cut the last hole off.
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Old 06-11-2014, 09:43 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeU70 View Post
When level, the top of the wheel wells of the Expedition are 35 1/2" both forward and aft and the clearance below the Equalizer hitch is ~ 8" (this height depends upon loading).

Once I lower the trailer and secure the ball, clearance drops to barely 3" and the rear wheel well drops to 32 1/2".
I have essentially the same rig as you, but I have the standard Equalizer shank. It gives 12 inches of clearance when unloaded. Both front and rear wheel wells are 35.5 like yours. When loaded the rear well drops 2 inches to 33.5. The front drops almost 1 inch.

My hitch has the 1200 pound bars. These are what Equalizer advised based upon estimated hitch weight and an allowance for some gear in the truck. The bars are loaded pretty aggressively. To hitch I need to extend the jack to its maximum height with trailer hitched to the Expedition. Only at that point can the bars barely slide onto the L brackets. As the hitch settles I can see the whole vehicle take up the load, not just the rear end.

I been told this heavy hitch will destroy my trailer, but I come to believe this applies to stiffly sprung tow vehicles like a F250. The Expedition is more softly sprung. I've not popped any rivets or had things fly from closets or come loose inside.

My advise is to adjust your hitch by adding more washers to get rear well drop down to 2 inches or so. At 3 inches drop you may be overloading your rear axle.
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