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Old 04-29-2018, 02:42 PM   #43
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I'm sort of confused a bit here slowmover, I have driven pickups all my life and realize they are not exactly built for slalom type handling or sudden maneuvers at highway speeds but, and you have probably explained this before, I noticed you tow with one, why is that? What do you consider a good choice for towing say a 25 foot AS?

Forgive me if this has been hashed over before but I haven't seen it.
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Old 04-29-2018, 02:54 PM   #44
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I'm sort of confused a bit here slowmover, I have driven pickups all my life and realize they are not exactly built for slalom type handling or sudden maneuvers at highway speeds but, and you have probably explained this before, I noticed you tow with one, why is that? What do you consider a good choice for towing say a 25 foot AS?

Forgive me if this has been hashed over before but I haven't seen it.
I also have driven pickups all my life, since 1962, sudden maneuvers? Stay awake and you won’t have any, sudden maneuvers ? You want to roll it? An animal...like a deer..hit it head on and walk away....my last one only cost a $100 plastic grille....you roll it, you may die...simple as that..same as in a big truck..
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Old 04-29-2018, 03:43 PM   #45
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I'm sort of confused a bit here slowmover, I have driven pickups all my life and realize they are not exactly built for slalom type handling or sudden maneuvers at highway speeds but, and you have probably explained this before, I noticed you tow with one, why is that? What do you consider a good choice for towing say a 25 foot AS?

Forgive me if this has been hashed over before but I haven't seen it.
I know why I tow with one, even knowing how many get rolled every day. I’m a mature driver; I don’t swerve. I get “cut off” as some people call it, a hundred times a week. I don’t understand why anyone needs “slalom like handling” when towing an airstream.
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Old 04-29-2018, 05:18 PM   #46
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Here's a guess - first, Slow was arguing that the "insurance won't pay" theme itself was wrong. I agree. They'll likely pay - once. And then your premiums are going to quadruple....

As for why tow with a PU truck when they're not the best. Is it because life is full of compromises and at least as a professional big rig driver, Slow has skills honed over years most don't?

This is me guessing.

Frankly - I'd LOVE to have more of a big station wagon like my parents had (a 64 (?) BelAir with a 455 and 3-speed on the column) only with the drivetrain I have in my 2013 3/4T diesel Silverado.

I love what the truck can do for towing - just hate it for the non-towing duties.

With Ford getting out of cars and sticking with SUVs and Trucks, the rest can't be too far behind. I would love to see a lower to the ground behemoth diesel towing station wagon but I'd have to pay to have a one-off -that's not happening.....
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Old 04-29-2018, 05:26 PM   #47
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So appreciate all the input here! What started this thread was my bad idea of mounting a rear bike rack on my 23' AS and loading around 200lbs on the a-end of the trailer. VERY bad idea. My 2017 Yukon Denali with 6.2 engine has been a solid tow vehicle and never had an issue hauling from Dana Point, CA to Missouri and back last summer. Survived 50mph winds on way home over Cajon Pass while 5th wheels were pulled off to the side. My Blue Ox hitch never let me down until I loaded bikes on the rear. Just happy to have survived the lesson. Thanks for the input everyone.
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Old 04-29-2018, 05:34 PM   #48
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Thanks for the update, and echoing earlier comments that applying the trailer brakes first was a wise move!

Happy Trails . . .

Peter
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Old 04-29-2018, 07:23 PM   #49
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Thanks for the update, and echoing earlier comments that applying the trailer brakes first was a wise move!

Happy Trails . . .

Peter
Yes applying trailer breaks on the fly like that was the right move to make under pressure. Great reaction.
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Old 04-29-2018, 09:50 PM   #50
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IMO, know your true tongue weight (i.e. adarondeck post) and understand exactly how interior loading affects it. I have a fiamma w/2 bikes at 63 lbs, but also use the FW/interior loading ( we use the rear shower as driving storage) to get to the TW target,generally 11/12% of axle weight. I use an equalizer hitch and have been thru some extremely windy situations...tows straight and true.

Never had to manually apply TT brakes yet, but that is the best strategy. Post re bumping up the # on downhill makes great sense. Go down in the accending gear is good stratgey.

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Old 05-07-2018, 12:40 PM   #51
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i'm very new to Airstream--this post begs a questions
where is the weight of the fresh black & gray tank relative to the axles?

do you travel with full or minimal fresh water --same for waste?
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Old 05-07-2018, 12:45 PM   #52
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I always travel with the water tank full. The weight lowers the CG and it is nice if you get stuck in a boondocking situation.

Usually dump before getting under so black and grey empty.
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Old 05-07-2018, 02:12 PM   #53
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I always travel with full fresh water tank.
Full propane tanks.
Very little loaded in coach.
Rides like a dream!
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Old 05-07-2018, 02:31 PM   #54
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The loading of the water tank must be assessed in light of the tank's relationship to the axles, and to the weight distribution inside the trailer.

There is no single "correct" level to aim for IMO.

For instance, our FC20 water tank is smack at the rear. If the rest of the trailer is loaded lightly, a full water tank will definitely introduce hints of sway. At 1/2 full there is much less tendency to sway.

In other trailers the water tank is more centrally located, so the favorable percentage is more flexible.

One size does not fit all . . .

FWIW
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Old 05-07-2018, 02:56 PM   #55
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Gee whiz OTRA.
Does it always have to be so complicated.
It seems most folk travel with full water and propane. Lowers center of gravity.
Propane in case it gets cold at the overnight stop and runs fridge.
Just saying
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:02 PM   #56
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For our 27FB, full fresh & propane with empty grey / black works out well.
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