Lots of good advice. Just remember there are three figures with regard to towing- hitch weight (load), towing weight (pull weight) and hitch rating on the tow vehicle. The truck has to meet all for safety. Do not assume a truck just will pull anything.
Example. My advertised hitch weight is 860# but in reality it is 990#. The actual weight of the trailer 4840# is not a problem for most trucks but the tongue weight would be an issue for SOME trucks. When you select the truck and, a 150 is fine. Look underneath the hitch receiver on the truck for the capacity sticker and, look inside the door at the tire/weight sticker for actual truck payload rating. It will say something like No more than xxxx pounds. This includes people, cargo and hitch weight added. Another indicator, just by looking, is how high the truck sits up compared to others parked near it (I know, sounds crazy). If it has not been altered or jacked up, often the carrying weight of the truck is more if it is higher off the ground. The sales guy and I found out this summer while wading through a sea of 135- 2015 F150 trucks. In your case, the trailer, though, large, is lightweight and also it has a light tongue weight compared to new models which is actually an advantage. It weighs as much as the truck so get a trailer brace controller and a truck that has the OEM tow package at least. A WD hitch, in my opinion is required since most hitch receivers top out at 500# for dead weight capacity and I am sure you have that with a stated 480ish.
The trick is that you will also need the WD hitch calibrated to your trailer/truck. A quick way to do this after you know how your particular WD hitch works, is to get the trailer and truck on level ground with the trailer unhitched from the truck. Carefully measure the distance from the ground to the center top of the wheel well opening of all four wheels, then hitch the trailer on dead weight and note the height change at the wheel wells- front up how much and rear down how much. This is what you are correcting for- to dial up the WD hitch bar counter weight to bring it as close to the original heights as possible. On a FORD truck,
the front height must never be lower than original-make sure it is not lower than before being hitched. Other brands are not the same in this regard according to my hitch book. Most likely it will remain higher than unhitched but I was able to get mine only an eighth inch higher than original. That is the quick way to calibrate without scales, etc. Usually, I am told that you will not achieve exactly the before heights but close. Just watch the front. It will probably be your limiter on how far you go with the WD crank or jack. You may even want to jump in the truck a few times during the process to provide some adjusting movement.
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