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Old 01-23-2016, 02:03 PM   #15
PKI
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New axles should mean new brakes and also good wheel bearings. However, if it's been a while since the axles went on, the bearing grease may have absorbed moisture over the humid KC summers. I'd ask the question, but you are likely OK.

You also need a good trailer battery to run the brakes if the trailer comes unhitched while in tow. The trailer should get a charge off the truck, but some need a fuse installed to connect the circuit. A cheap Walmart Battery might be a good idea, if the current batteries are older wet cells, but you can always try them as a start and replace them later if required.

Towing without Sway Control is possible at slower speed, but few folks can drive the interstate between KC and SD at 50 mph or less, and in the wrong conditions even that is too fast. Most move to a Weight Distribution hitch with sway control. They can be purchased used or new at either low or high cost. You do get what you pay for, but a lot of folks find a reasonably priced hitch functional for their use. For a trip from KC to SD, just about any of the available solutions will work if you are conservative. A bolt on round bar with brake pad sway control might be your best short term alternative. Many folks would not feel that hitch was the best long term solution. Educate yourself and make an informed decision.

A trailer pickup run will likely be a light weight trip. You will not have a lot of gear to weight down the trailer. That can be a good thing as it will save you some fuel, but you will not have weight to move around if you need to adjust the balance of the trailer. A valid tongue weight is required to specify the right spring bars on a WDH. You will add weight as you pile on the gear, so give yourself some headroom, but don't go overboard, because an AS needs a soft ride or you get to learn how to replace rivets and seal up the resulting leaks.

Check the tire classification on those new tires. If they are STs, do not exceed 65 mph. There are a few higher speed STs but verify, don't trust. Trailer tires often fail with good tread remaining. It's why they can do so much damage to the fender wells. Check the cold tire pressure every morning if a monitoring system is not installed.

Check the wheel lug nut torque before you leave and every 500 miles until it's clear they are stable. An inexpensive torque wrench can be purchased from Harbor Freight and you need one.

Harbor Freight also puts their heat guns on sale. Good idea to have one. Saves holding your hand on the tire, hubs and brakes to check for overheating.

You may need to consider the weather. The trip down to Wichita is a given. HW 50 down to where it connects with I40 cuts some distance, but it is not all fantastic road. Ice is very bad on I35, so wait it out, if it hits. I40 passes are not a difficult tow, but can be challenging when the weather closes in on you. You may find that going South is longer, but a better choice for your trip. Welcome to the world of AS travel smiles.

Drive safe. Pat

If you don't feel safe, leave or slow down. If you drop a wheel off the pavement, do not jerk it back or brake hard. Slow down gradually and come back on the pavement at slow speed or when the surface is level.
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Old 01-23-2016, 02:54 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by rvb View Post
There are several things to consider:
1. The listed 8,000# is probably with an appropriate hitch and may be lower without one. You could be over your legal tow weight.
2. You should plan on towing at 15-20% below the rated capacity of the truck. They may say it will pull 8,000# but that may be on flat ground, and it won't be happy in the mountains.
3. If you are in an accident and towing without an equalizer hitch and without some form of sway control it could be used against you in court to assign blame. Mine tows fine with the bars and no sway control but I always use it for this reason!

I would get an equalizer hitch and have it set up correctly before towing home,
There are two errors in the above post.

1. There's no "legal tow weight" as referenced by the poster. It doesn't exist in current law for private towing, manufacturer specified tow limits have zero legal implication. Don't believe me, check it with a competent lawyer.

2. Towing without sway control is legal. Doing so does neither makes you culpable nor liable.

Having said that, the trailer you're buying is large and I personally would not dream towing it without a proper hitch setup. The size of the truck makes close to zero difference here, once your fulcrum (trailer) starts to sway, and there's nothing controlling it, it doesn't matter whether you're driving a 1 ton truck or a minivan, you've got a problem. Why risk your beautiful new purchase?

Your 2016 truck will tow a 1971 trailer with hardly any effort. The 150 can tow most modern trailers with no issues. Remember that the advertised "anti sway system" is nothing more than a good old VSA (vehicle stability assist) that's been around for ages. Once again, the power of marketing.

Also, keep in mind that until recently the tow capacity of most trucks was set without any agreed upon standard of any kind. Often the marketing department made the final decision.

As a result, statements like "tow to 80% capacity" are completely devoid of meaning and can actually be dangerous as they create a false sense of security.
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:04 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by andreasduess View Post
There are two errors in the above post.

1. There's no "legal tow weight" as referenced by the poster. It doesn't exist in current law for private towing, manufacturer specified tow limits have zero legal implication. Don't believe me, check it with a competent lawyer.

2. Towing without sway control is legal. Doing so does neither makes you culpable nor liable.

Having said that, the trailer you're buying is large and I personally would not dream towing it without a proper hitch setup. The size of the truck makes close to zero difference here, once your fulcrum (trailer) starts to sway, and there's nothing controlling it, it doesn't matter whether you're driving a 1 ton truck or a minivan, you've got a problem. Why risk your beautiful new purchase?

Your 2016 truck will tow a 1971 trailer with hardly any effort. The 150 can tow most modern trailers with no issues. Remember that the advertised "anti sway system" is nothing more than a good old VSA (vehicle stability assist) that's been around for ages. Once again, the power of marketing.

Also, keep in mind that until recently the tow capacity of most trucks was set without any agreed upon standard of any kind. Often the marketing department made the final decision.

As a result, statements like "tow to 80% capacity" are completely devoid of meaning and can actually be dangerous as they create a false sense of security.
Good advice! In my opinion correct info.
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:19 PM   #18
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I have operated for over 2 years and over 15,000 miles with no weight distribution hitch or sway control and have a 30' trailer. Just take your time. The 150 is plenty big.

Good luck.
Taking your time seems like prudent advice. Towing a large trailer without weight distribution may be possible and it apparently works for you. I hope the OP will give due consideration to the importance of weight distribution.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI View Post
...

Harbor Freight also puts their heat guns on sale. Good idea to have one. Saves holding your hand on the tire, hubs and brakes to check for overheating.

...
I presume you're referring to an infrared temperature sensor of the likes shown below:
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:27 PM   #19
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Yes to the 150 and yes to a WD/antisway combo. You can do it without, but it's a silly place to save$$, especially if you're going to "do it later." I would readily tie without under 40 mph on good roads, but never tow over that speed on any road.

We have and like our Equalizr--reasonably Priced and easy to use and effective on the road. Spend some time with an experienced person to set up whatever you're using properly for your rig combo. The WD antisway combo will make you have much more fun and be much safer right from the start.

Weather!!!!! Your rig is big, heavy, relatively slow to stop and you don't need snow or icy conditions thrown into that mix!
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:55 PM   #20
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We have only scared ourselves once, and it was in New Mexico on our way to Arizona. We have a 25' 03 Safari that we pull with a Toyota Tundra rated to pull 10, 500 lbs. We have a Reese roller cam set up. It sounds like there is not much different in the weights of our two trailers, though mine is some wider and much shorter. The current Tundra is marginal in my opinion even though it is rated to tow more than the Ford--this is likely the last Tundra. My point is, get an equalizer hitch and make real sure the truck is all you need it to be. When you're stuck eight miles from a campground getting blown all over the road in 70 plus side winds that came up on you all of a sudden, a great tow vehicle and a sway reducing hitch is the best you can hope for. That being said, that's eight miles in 10 years of towing across the country several times!
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:45 PM   #21
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I pull a 28' International with a 2011 GMC 2500. It is rated for 13500# on the ball and 16000# on a fifth wheel set up. With that said, I use a Equalizer hitch. The weight distribution will keep the pressure balanced on the tow vehicles wheels and provide sway control in a cross wind. My son tried to pull a 25' WBT with a Dodge 2500 just on the ball and his front wheels were lightly loaded and he has some steering issues because he didn't have enough weight on the front wheels. Pulling across the country with out the proper hitch would be dangerous and would make the trip very un nerving.
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Old 01-24-2016, 12:00 AM   #22
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You say you're buy the truck at the same time, is it a new one or used? If new most vehicle mfgs don't recommend towing for the first 500 or so miles(believe the actual number may vary) on the vehicle. Just something to consider.
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Old 01-24-2016, 04:44 PM   #23
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Not positive but I think California requires a WD for TT's that size, need to check so you can get it installed prior to leaving Missouri.
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Old 01-25-2016, 01:09 AM   #24
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Not positive but I think California requires a WD for TT's that size, need to check so you can get it installed prior to leaving Missouri.
After a quick read through of the CA towing site, that does not seem to be the case. Pat
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Old 01-25-2016, 06:21 AM   #25
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Lots of good advice. Just remember there are three figures with regard to towing- hitch weight (load), towing weight (pull weight) and hitch rating on the tow vehicle. The truck has to meet all for safety. Do not assume a truck just will pull anything.

Example. My advertised hitch weight is 860# but in reality it is 990#. The actual weight of the trailer 4840# is not a problem for most trucks but the tongue weight would be an issue for SOME trucks. When you select the truck and, a 150 is fine. Look underneath the hitch receiver on the truck for the capacity sticker and, look inside the door at the tire/weight sticker for actual truck payload rating. It will say something like No more than xxxx pounds. This includes people, cargo and hitch weight added. Another indicator, just by looking, is how high the truck sits up compared to others parked near it (I know, sounds crazy). If it has not been altered or jacked up, often the carrying weight of the truck is more if it is higher off the ground. The sales guy and I found out this summer while wading through a sea of 135- 2015 F150 trucks. In your case, the trailer, though, large, is lightweight and also it has a light tongue weight compared to new models which is actually an advantage. It weighs as much as the truck so get a trailer brace controller and a truck that has the OEM tow package at least. A WD hitch, in my opinion is required since most hitch receivers top out at 500# for dead weight capacity and I am sure you have that with a stated 480ish.

The trick is that you will also need the WD hitch calibrated to your trailer/truck. A quick way to do this after you know how your particular WD hitch works, is to get the trailer and truck on level ground with the trailer unhitched from the truck. Carefully measure the distance from the ground to the center top of the wheel well opening of all four wheels, then hitch the trailer on dead weight and note the height change at the wheel wells- front up how much and rear down how much. This is what you are correcting for- to dial up the WD hitch bar counter weight to bring it as close to the original heights as possible. On a FORD truck, the front height must never be lower than original-make sure it is not lower than before being hitched. Other brands are not the same in this regard according to my hitch book. Most likely it will remain higher than unhitched but I was able to get mine only an eighth inch higher than original. That is the quick way to calibrate without scales, etc. Usually, I am told that you will not achieve exactly the before heights but close. Just watch the front. It will probably be your limiter on how far you go with the WD crank or jack. You may even want to jump in the truck a few times during the process to provide some adjusting movement.
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Old 01-25-2016, 11:12 AM   #26
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I would think in calif. the WD would be required by law and most definitely by safety/practically.. we are pulling a 26' Excella, they are on the heavy side, and our 2500 ram makes it fine w/o the wd hitch. BUT, I would not pull that far w/o one now even w/ the large truck..our previous half ton chevy would not have been able. have pulled same w/ a 2003 Envoy and W/D.. Bit of a struggle up hill but the w/d made it very stable..
Have pulled many things w/ many trucks,, you need to use the w/d hitch.. and be able to relax a bit,,.. enjoy
BTW - WD is not required in CA at any weight or length as far as I know, & certainly not in any AS/vintage kin size.

However, brakes are required on all trailers over 1500# GVTW.

Also the CA speed limit while towing is mostly at 55 mph, with a few roads & freeways only limiting "cars towing" to 55, but I believe they're in the process of changing all signs to "all vehicles" while towing limit at 55. So anything over could be ticketed!

I'm not aware of any state which requires WD - but if there are, please post here as an FYI - especially if they're along the OP's potential routes KS to San Diego.

Cheers!
Tom
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