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Old 05-20-2015, 08:16 PM   #15
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1991 34' Excella
Princeton , New Jersey
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Originally Posted by rocco52 View Post
Well, thanks for everyone's input. I just purchased the 2015 25FB so I will have to figure it out. I will contact the CanAm guy, but in the meantime I will try to rebalance by moving the batteries and spare tire. I am going to use the Blue Ox system. I spoke with a guy that owns a Porsche Cayenne Diesel. It is built on the same platform as my Q7 TDI and has the same hitch. He has been towing a 27FB for a year and a half now with no problems. Wish me luck!
Please keep one factor in mind before you move things around. A trailer tongue weight is designed to be between 10 and 12% of the trailer weight. This is the sweet spot that is optimum to reduce sway.

Yes a lot of trailer, those with smaller sidewall exposure, can be towed without a WD hitch. However with camper trailers and there larger sidewalls crosswinds and trucks passing are the justification for a WD hitch. That sudden change from equilibrium start sway and once started is tough to reduce.

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Old 05-21-2015, 03:56 AM   #16
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Do not reduce your tongue weight by too much, you will create more issues than you're solving that way. Too low, and your rig will be prone to sway.

I talked to Andrew from CanAm some weeks back, he's a fan of the Audi and will have the knowledge to set it up properly for you.

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Old 05-21-2015, 11:07 AM   #17
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WD refers to "weight distributing"...which is an entirely different matter than "sway control".

And there is nothing "dangerous" or "incorrect" about my prior statement of which an opinion was expressed as fact by andreasduess.

There is one method sure to cause argument and that is to challenge anyone's opinion upon what they've just spent their money.
Just because you have bought into the WD/SC community does not mean you needed that Band-Aid for your towing situation.... and just because you've bought the device does not guarantee your towing situation is safe.

If the weight is well-distributed... you DO NOT NEED a WD hitch.
If you do not have a SWAY problem then you do not need sway control (which also dulls any natural re-alignment virtues of your towing arrangement.)

Those are no more needed in well-designed towing situations than antibiotics are needed by a healthy person. Those devices are not equivalent to vaccinations, either. IMO
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:26 AM   #18
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I believe that you are correct. One thing that bothers me is the listed tongue weight is 837#. The trailer dry weight, with propane, is listed as 5500#. Assuming that you add a 1000# of water and gear I don't think you could end up at the ideal hitch to weight ratio of 10% but I am going to try. My boat and trailer weigh 6500#. It drops the back of the Q7 about 2 1/2" and tows easily without a WD hitch.
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:40 AM   #19
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Battle Lake , Minnesota
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It is very difficult moving load around in a late model 25 to get down to 10-12% hitch weight. The FB models have much of their storage in the front. Yes, our boat trailer also tows well without a special hitch, our Airstream does not.

A w.d. hitch gives better handling, steering control, and braking when you need it most, such as an evasive maneuver on a wet, slick roadway.

Sway control reduces the risk of dangerous increasing trailer oscillations in heavy crosswinds, bow wave from passing semi's, engine braking on downhill grades, winding roadway, evasive maneuvers to avoid an accident, a little too much speed, but especially when all of these factors happen at the same time.

Not all w.d./sway control hitches operate on the same principle. Some have built-in friction control devices that cannot be easily adjusted to reduce friction for, say icy roads. Some use easily adjustable separate friction sway control bars. Some use no friction to eliminate sway and present no resistance to return to towing centerline.

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Old 05-23-2015, 08:55 AM   #20
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Anyone have any experience with the Sureline tongue weight gauge? I thought it would be a good thing to get for my purpose.

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