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Old 04-19-2018, 10:13 PM   #1
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Equalizer not working

Hello

My little piece of heaven is a new GT and a 2015 Ram 1500.

The issue is the Equalizer does not level the truck and trailer. The truck front is approx 4+ inches taller than the rear end.

The Equalizer is the four point with 10,000 lbs and 1,000 lbs tongue weight. The ball is at a small pitch down and has three washers on the ball assembly.
The truck bed is empty as is the back seat area.

Would raising the bracket on the trailer frame lower the truck front?

I am really at a loss. Help is much appreciated.
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Old 04-19-2018, 10:16 PM   #2
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Go to Equalizer website for proper setup instructions.Very easy if u follow the instructions
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Old 04-19-2018, 11:45 PM   #3
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Hi, you will find that 5 or 6 washers works for most set-ups. Three barely does anything.
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Old 04-20-2018, 02:24 PM   #4
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Thanks

Apparently I should not have relied on the dealer installation.
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Old 04-20-2018, 03:00 PM   #5
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Yes, you don't have enough WD dialed in. It'll take more washers. Usually 5-6 as above but I've heard some use 7.

It really also depends on the position of L brackets on the tongue where the WD bars sit. You may need to lift them up by 1 hole. But give the washer a try first.
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Old 04-21-2018, 12:41 AM   #6
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Yes, the L brackets

Looking at the L brackets today the do look quite low (only one empty hole on top. I'll start with the washers though.

Thank you all for your help.
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Old 04-22-2018, 06:24 PM   #7
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I followed the Equalizer website instructions and I am very pleased with the results. I jumped from 5 washers to seven. I raised the l-shape brackets and now I have very good weight distribution. Take the measurements first and make sure the trailer is level. Then make sure the hitch ball on your TV is approximately even with your coupler on the trailer. Follow the instructions.
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Old 04-22-2018, 10:44 PM   #8
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Too Darned Busy

Wife's mother just had her 101st birthday so no chance to readjust the Equalizer. Too much birthday cake these days.

Looked at the three washers and it appears that they are copper. Are the washers specific to the system? I did not get any additional washers from the dealer. Do I need washers specifically from Equalizer?
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:11 AM   #9
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They are hardened steel washers. You can buy them at ACE Hardware here in the east. BTW: My Equal-i-zer manual says four washers are the minimum, eight is maximum.
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Old 04-23-2018, 08:37 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by sheinzer View Post
Looked at the three washers and it appears that they are copper. Are the washers specific to the system? I did not get any additional washers from the dealer. Do I need washers specifically from Equalizer?
I asked Equalizer that exact question when I first installed my hitch. They answered that they are hardened steel, gave me the size (1/2"(??)) Take one with you, or buy several sizes, a package of four is about $2.
and I bought some from Lowe's in the fastener bins. Grade 7 washers.
But start with the truck ball at the correct height. (I recall 17.75) You can move the hitch head up and down on the shank. (1 1/8" socket and a breaker bar) Then use the washers to fine tune the adjustment. I use six. I'd have to look at my trailer to see which hole the "L" brackets are mounted in.

When set up correctly, there's no way I could pry the bars onto the "L" pads using the tool. I have to raise the hitch and truck both using the electric jack, then once the bars are on, lower it all down.

BTW, the washers flatten down after a while, and you'll develop a gap between the set bolt and the shank. Re-adjust.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:16 AM   #11
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If itís not too late consider removing the jack bolt under the head and install with head contacting shank instead of threaded end.

The threaded end can get smashed and damaged. By putting bolt head against shank, no damage. Access is slightly hampered but not bad.

Consult manual for setup as noted.

Gary
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:42 AM   #12
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If it’s not too late consider removing the jack bolt under the head and install with head contacting shank instead of threaded end.

The threaded end can get smashed and damaged. By putting bolt head against shank, no damage. Access is slightly hampered but not bad.
Gary
I had to read that several times to understand. Now I get it. Flip the bolt over. I never thought of doing that, but it makes sense. Of course, if you never remove the adjustment bolt, you don't care.
Or replace the adjustment bolt with a grade 7 version and I doubt it would ever get damaged.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:56 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by sheinzer View Post
Looking at the L brackets today the do look quite low (only one empty hole on top. I'll start with the washers though.
In searching Google for images of Airstreams with Equalizer hitches, it appears that most have one empty hole above the frame/L bracket.
I want to think mine has two, but it's at the storage yard, I'll double check next time. Mine was adjusted by the dealer's "expert", and he spent a couple hours tweaking.
It drives great, so I hate to make changes.
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Old 04-23-2018, 01:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
I had to read that several times to understand. Now I get it. Flip the bolt over. I never thought of doing that, but it makes sense. Of course, if you never remove the adjustment bolt, you don't care.
Or replace the adjustment bolt with a grade 7 version and I doubt it would ever get damaged.


Itís those threads getting beat up right at the end. Then if you back it out, ouch.

FWIW I just tweaked a noobs equalizer install. It had too long of a shank on hitch ball and bar socket crunched it during tight turn, hitch head bolts loose big time, jack screw on bottom not tightened and applying pressure to head adj washers.

Thunka thunka thunka.

No biggy, the entire head was moving up and down over bumps. Replaced ball with correct shank length. Tightened head bolts.

All installed on new hitch by a MAJOR RV place.

I have a BIG breaker bar, sockets and not afraid to use Ďem.

Gary
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