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Old 08-15-2017, 04:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyggeln View Post
On the topic, I measured my tongue weight as 1080# on my 28' CCD, and therefore have the 1200# bars which gives a bit of margin, but not much (90% of rated). Would prefer the 1400# bars with that high a tongue weight (77% of rated) to avoid stressing the welds.
Capacity is one way to look at it. And is generally an easy way to size the Equilizer hitch/bars. In practice, another useful way is to question how stiff do I want my WD bars? From that point of view, less might be more. Why beat up a 1000# hitch weight class of trailer with 1400# bars?

In the OP's case, he has a beefy F250. It's going to be stable with relatively less weight transfer. That's part of the reason why people go to larger vehicles in the first place? It's also not going to 'give' much and all the ride harshness and stress is going to be put on the AS.

But there are camps that say a truck is relatively longer and harder to transfer weight to the front axle. In this respect, 1200# bars would be more useful.

I personally prefer a balanced setup that is not too little or too much. I don't think the OP will go wrong with 1000# or 1200# bars in this case. But I would lean towards the 1000# hitch.
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Old 08-15-2017, 07:00 PM   #16
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Equalizer 10,000 or 12,000

We have pulled a 28ft International with a 2012 F350,2015 F350 and now a 2017 f350.I use a Airsafe hitch along with a Equilizer 4 point.The trailer rides smooth and independent of the tow vehicle.No jerk back on bumps.The truck also rides as smooth as you could ever ask for.Much better than the ride a maxed out on payload F150 does.(Ask me how I know this)I would not tow my trailer without the Airsafe.We pull close to 20,000 miles per year in all conditions.
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Old 08-15-2017, 07:51 PM   #17
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We tow our FC 30 with a long box, 2016 F250. It has a fiberglass cap on which we carry two kayaks. In the cap are two bikes, bike and kayak accessories, ladder, chairs and various tools. We use 1K Equalizer bars. I know your Classic is heavier, but I can't see the need for the 1200 bars.
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Old 08-15-2017, 09:32 PM   #18
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Acually... your not going to like this .. but even the 1000 lb bars are way to heavy for the PU and trailer.... I went from 1000 lb bars to the 750 and still don't get much actions out of them... If I were you.. I'd stick with the 1000 lb bars... and then if the ride is too rough... buy the lighter ones later on... The reason being is that the PU rear axle wt is way higher than what a car would be... and the tires on the PU are much thicker and higher plys too... thus not much soft ride in it for the trailer... and airstreams need soft rides... the only reason you go heavier is to take care of the sway control... But, towing with a 3/4 pickup is different than a normal vehicle... due to the weight ability of the bed... and while you put stuff in the bed.. its carried both forward and rear of the rear axle... so it should balance out to weight over the r axle... only... as to the weight on the hitch on the back of the truck... you arn't even close to what the back of the truck can carry... so you really won't need much up lifting from the eqlizer bars... and I would not try and take the 800 lbs off of the ball by them either... Been pulling a 30 ft'r now with my 3/4 t pu for years and I found that you can damage the trailer by over hitching... Their used to be a guy on here ... andy.. from inland RV... in calif... he is actually the one that you should be talking too... as he has been around almost as long as Reese and airstream have... Have fun with the trailer.. and when you get to where your going.. I usually take the bars off.. makes for easy backing and turning sharper... as a suggestion...
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Old 08-16-2017, 04:02 AM   #19
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We run the 12,000# along with 1,000# bars on our 2015 F350 with a 2017 30' Classic. We also used the same hitch on two previous 30' Flying Clouds. All total probably about 100,000 miles - ONLY issue has been eventually the ball moves about 1/8". So two years ago I RED lock-tight it and not moved since. Other than that I take the head apart each December, check it over, grease it and put it back together with proper torque.

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Old 08-18-2017, 12:29 PM   #20
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Thanks for the Replies

Thanks everyone for the very informative replies.

I appreciate the comments about weighing the set up to better make a decision, but this is a brand new trailer that I will be picking up next week. I need to decide on a hitch before I go just so I can get the trailer home. No way I can load it and tow it to the scales and then go back to the dealer and say, "Nah, I think I want to go with the other hitch."

The truck we are looking at is the 2017 Ford F250 Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 with the gas engine.

Of course, as I have done with our current truck and trailer, weighing the trailer, the tongue and the full set up once everything is in the trailer and TV is a must.

Based upon what I have read here and what I've read elsewhere, and since the dealer stocks and recommends the 1,000/10,000 combo, I will start with that. If necessary I'll look into lighter bars. I will look closer at the Air Ride hitch. I had read some good reviews on this and it looks like a good option to take some of the jerking out of the tow.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:46 AM   #21
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I had a 25' with 600# bars towing with a 1/2 ton f150. Never felt like the bars were heavy enough as I experienced sway when trucks passed.

I bought a used 30' 1200 miles from home and towed it empty with the 600# bars. Clearly they were not enough. Sway was worse.

I bought 1000# bars and that was much better.

I've now purchased a 2017 F250 4x4 XLT. I have 450# in the bed plus a truck cap that's probably 250#. My trailer is also loaded for full time travel so is probably on the heavy side. Will weigh it soon.

Anyway the 1000# bars seem perfect. No sway at all in about 1000 miles of travel. I would not go any lighter.

Towing with the 1000# bars and f250 has been so much more relaxing than the f150 with any bar/trailer combo I've used.
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Old 08-19-2017, 08:38 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyggeln View Post
On the topic, I measured my tongue weight as 1080# on my 28' CCD, and therefore have the 1200# bars which gives a bit of margin, but not much (90% of rated). Would prefer the 1400# bars with that high a tongue weight (77% of rated) to avoid stressing the welds.
Perhaps I'm not thinking this correctly, but wouldn't 1400# bars stress the welds MORE? No flex, all leverage.

I have 1000# bars and they seem (to a novice) to be darn stiff. I'd hate to have one fall on my toe. If Equal-i-zer specifies 1000# bars for 1000# tongue weight and 10,000# trailer weight, why fight them?
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Old 08-20-2017, 07:06 AM   #23
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Hi

The actual amount of force you get out of any bar when setup for the same WD is identical. It's just transferring force from the tongue to the receiver. Same force gives you the same WD.

When you go over a dip or a bump, a stiffer bar will indeed give a bit more force (in one direction) or a bit less force (in the other direction).

The gotcha is that at a reasonable angle (number of washers) you may not be able to get enough force with light bars to accomplish the desired WD.

Bob
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Old 08-20-2017, 09:43 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
Perhaps I'm not thinking this correctly, but wouldn't 1400# bars stress the welds MORE? No flex, all leverage.

I have 1000# bars and they seem (to a novice) to be darn stiff. I'd hate to have one fall on my toe. If Equal-i-zer specifies 1000# bars for 1000# tongue weight and 10,000# trailer weight, why fight them?
I could be wrong but I don't believe that any of those short stiff trunion bars have any flex.
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Old 08-21-2017, 06:49 AM   #25
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I could be wrong but I don't believe that any of those short stiff trunion bars have any flex.
Hi

As you go over a hump or a dip in the road (think of exiting a gas station) the bars either flex or break. The same flexing occurs when you raise of lower the trailer with the jack.....Yes, looking at them it's a bit hard to believe. The "1,000 pounds" ratings come from some specific amount of deflection. Is that 6" at the tip or something else? ..... who knows.

Bob
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Old 08-21-2017, 07:09 AM   #26
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Here's the essence of what I learned from CanAm Andy: the longer the TV wheelbase, the harder the bars have to work to transfer weight to the front axle. Given your quite long wheelbase, I'd think the 1200 lb. rated bars would be needed. The counterpoint is--you've selected a very stiff WD system, since the Equalizer bars do not taper from the hitch socket to the friction plate. Thus, the stiffer the hitch the more likely to experience a rougher trailer ride and perhaps sheared rivets.

I'm using a Curt WD hitch with an F-150 to pull a 25 ft. FC trailer. AndyT recommended, and I use, 1400 lbs. bars for this combination (although Andy prefers the Eaz-lift hitch). These Curt bars are barely enough to move appropriate weight to the front axle.

If you select 1000 lb. bars, be prepared to change to 1200 lb. bars if you can't transfer enough weight to the front axle to restore at least half of the "nose up" movement with the trailer attached but no bars connected.
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Old 08-21-2017, 07:34 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

As you go over a hump or a dip in the road (think of exiting a gas station) the bars either flex or break. The same flexing occurs when you raise of lower the trailer with the jack.....Yes, looking at them it's a bit hard to believe. The "1,000 pounds" ratings come from some specific amount of deflection. Is that 6" at the tip or something else? ..... who knows.

Bob
Another 40 year Airstream repair shop owner and forum member "Inland Andy" from Inland RV in Corona, CA knows. Because he tested them and published the results.

http://www.inlandrv.com/articles/hit...bar-story.html

Use the Equal-I-Zer hitch at your Airstream's own risk. Most of the flex you get will not be in the w.d. bars but your truck and trailer suspension, frames, and hitch receiver. If your tow vehicle is stiffly suspended much of the flex is in the remaining components (my Airstream's cabinets are coming apart and loose stuff is all over the floor).
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Old 08-21-2017, 07:46 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
If your tow vehicle is stiffly suspended much of the flex is in the remaining components (my Airstream's cabinets are coming apart and loose stuff is all over the floor).
...and yet the same folks (not you personally) talk about how great it is to go boon docking down some potholed road, where the trailer frame drags and they need 4WD.
I think this forum is a great place for overstating one's case.

Meanwhile, Equal-i-zer is the most recommended hitch by Airstream dealers, so I'll listen to the hitch makers and what they recommend. Until I have first hand experience.
"Equalizer recommends 1000# bars, but Joe at the welding shop said to use 1200# bars, and Fred at "Hitches-R-Us" said I'll blow out my front tires, so to be safe, I'm going to use 1400# bars!"
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